1957 pre unit inner chaincase felt washer position

PRE OUT/PWR IN - (1) Effects Loop - Connect PRE OUT to an effects device input, then connect the effects device output to PWR IN. (2) Multiple Amps - Connect the primary unit's PRE OUT to the auxiliary unit's PWR IN. The primary unit is used to control all auxiliary units. (3) Recording or Reinforcement - Connect PRE OUT to sound equipment's input. Both jacks use a TS (Tip-Sleeve) standard type plug for connections. PRE OUT includes onboard tone shaping.

1. 


2. Thanks to Danny Paccho I purchased a wrench to use in removing the sleeve from Geers Plumbing


3. Then , removed the \'87 Price Pfister faucet housing from the basin by disconnecting the 2 pipes under the basin and removing the top basin nut; inserted the wrench into the top, turning counter-clockwise until it locked (er tightened a bit) and hammered it out ,gently?, to not damage the escutcheon threads , or the basin nut.
   

I just purchased a FSM (Field Service Manual/downloaded online from eBay) and this is all I can find out about the timing on an S-Type. If you would like a copy of the manual, I would be more than happy to send it to you as an attachment if allowed. Email me.. [email protected]. My name is Jan, retired, and tired of the problems my 2001 Jag S-Type 4.0 is giving me, but still love it.
Variable Valve Timing (VVT)
The variable valve timing system improves both low speed and high speed engine performance, engine idle quality and
exhaust emissions. It is an infinitely variable system operating on the intake camshafts only. There is the equivalent of 48? of
crankshaft movement between the retarded and advanced positions. Engine oil pressure operates the system under the
control of the ECM.
For each intake camshaft there is a valve timing unit, a bush carrier assembly and a VVT solenoid.
The valve timing unit turns the intake camshaft in relation to the primary chain to advance and retard the timing.
The unit consists of a body and sprocket assembly separated from an inner sleeve by a ring piston and two ring gears; the
inner sleeve is bolted to the camshaft.
The ring gears engage in opposing helical splines on both the body and sprocket assembly and the inner sleeve, to transmit
drive from the assembly to the inner sleeve.
Engine oil pressure moves the ring gears and piston to turn the inner sleeve in the advanced timing direction and a return
spring reverses the direction for retard.
Additional springs absorb rotational and axial backlash to reduce noise and wear.
Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid
The valve timing solenoid controls the position of the shuttle
valve in the bush carrier. A plunger on the solenoid extends when the solenoid is energized and retracts when the solenoid is de-energized.
With the vehicle stationary and the engine compartment open, operation of the valve timing solenoids may be audible when the lubrication pulse occurs at engine idle speed.

Instructions

1. Replacing the Alternator
   • 1 Remove the drain plug located under the clutch area of the primary chaincase and drain the chaincase lubricant into a catch pan. Remove all mounting bolts from the primary cover and slide the cover from its locating studs. Loosen the primary chain tensioner and inspect it for wear (this is a logical time to replace the tensioner shoe, since you are in the case).
     
   • 2 Lock the primary chain where it enters the bottom of the clutch drum. Remove the engine sprocket nut and slide the compensator/sprocket assembly from the engine sprocket shaft. Slide the reluctor bowl off the engine sprocket shaft. Push the stator plug through the hole into the inner primary case. Remove the stator mounting bolts and slide the stator from its support boss. Remove the stator from the case.
     
   • 3 Slide the new stator onto the support boss and orient it so that the stator wires are closest to the stator plug hole in the case. Install and torque the new stator bolts to factory specification (refer to manufacturer's torque sheet). Do not re-use the old bolts. The bolts come pre-treated with Loctite and are designed for one-time use. Insert the stator plug into the plug hole and snap it into place.
     
   • 4 Slide the reluctor bowl onto the sprocket shaft and bottom it onto the shaft shoulder. Align the splines on the shaft and the compensator/sprocket assembly and slide the assembly into position. Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to factory specification for your model of Harley. Adjust the primary chain tensioner to factory specification.
     
   • 5 Scrape the old primary gasket from the case. Harley Davidson gaskets are produced with a print-o-seal feature that melts and '"cooks" onto the case surface. Insure that all of the old gasket is removed from the machined surfaces. Use caution when scraping the gasket, as the cast-aluminum cases are easily gouged, leading to poor sealing and leaks. Install the fresh gasket onto the locating studs, followed by the primary chaincase cover. Torque the primary cover to the proper torque and in the recommended pattern according to the specification sheet for your model of Harley. Remove the inspection plate and add new chaincase lubricant. Replace the inspection cover gasket and re-install the inspection plate.
     

1995 Toyota T100 4WD Pickup
Manual Locking Hub - Removal and Installation
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONSee Figures 1 through 11

Fig. 1: Exploded view of the free wheeling hub

Fig. 2: Turn the handle with your hand to the free position

Fig. 3: Note the directions in which you can turn the handle: left-free, right-lock

1. Remove the hub cover. Set the control handle to the "FREE" position.

Fig. 4: With the handle in the free position, remove the six hub cover bolts

1. Remove the cover mounting bolts, then pull off the cover. Remove and discard the gasket.

Fig. 5: Pull the cover off

1. Remove the bolt with washer.

Fig. 6: Using the correct size wrench, loosen ...

Fig. 7: ... then remove the center bolt and washer

1. Remove the mounting nuts and washers.

Fig. 8: Next, remove the outside mounting nuts and washers

1. Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends, then remove the cone washers.

Fig. 9: Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends ...

Fig. 10: ... then remove the cone washers

1. Pull off the hub body.

Fig. 11: The free wheeling body should come off easily; be sure to discard the old gaskets

1. Remove and discard the gasket.

To install:

1. Place a new gasket into position on the front axle hub. Install the free wheeling hub body with the cones washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
2. Install the bolt with washer, tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
3. Apply multi-purpose grease to the inner hub splines.
4. Set the control handle and clutch to the free position.
5. Place a new gasket into position on the cover.
6. Install the cover to the body with the follower pawl tabs aligned with the non toothed portions of the body.
7. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).

Fig 1.Exploded view of the Free Wheeling Hub




Fig. 2 Turn the handle by hand to the "FREE" position




Fig. 3: Note the directions in which you can turn the handle: left-free, right-lock.




Fig. 4 With the handle in the free position, remove the six hub cover bolts.




Fig. 5 Pull the cover off.




Fig. 6 Using the correct size wrench, loosen ...




Fig. 7 ...then remove the center bolt and washer




Fig. 8 Next, remove the outside mounting nuts and washers.




Fig. 9 Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends.




Fig. 10 ... then remove the cone washers




Fig. 11 The free wheeling body should come off easily; be sure to discard the old gaskets.

Removal & Installation

Exploded view of the free wheeling hub
Click to Enlarge

Turn the handle with your hand to the free position

Note the directions in which you can turn the handle: left-free, right-lock

1. Remove the hub cover. Set the control handle to free.
   

With the handle in the free position, remove the six hub cover bolts

1. Remove the cover mounting bolts, then pull off the cover. Remove and discard the gasket.
   

Pull the cover off

1. Remove the bolt with washer.
   

Using the correct size wrench, loosen ...

... then remove the center bolt and washer

1. Remove the mounting nuts and washers.
   

Next, remove the outside mounting nuts and washers

1. Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends, then remove the cone washers.
   

Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends ...

... then remove the cone washers

1. Pull off the hub body.
   

The free wheeling body should come off easily; be sure to discard the old gaskets

1. Remove and discard the gasket.
   

To install:

1. Place a new gasket into position on the front axle hub. Install the free wheeling hub body with the cones washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
   
2. Install the bolt with washer, tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
   
3. Apply multi-purpose grease to the inner hub splines.
   
4. Set the control handle and clutch to the free position.
   
5. Place a new gasket into position on the cover.
   
6. Install the cover to the body with the follower pawl tabs aligned with the non toothed portions of the body.
   
7. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
8. i hope this is what you are looking for
   
9. plz vote comment and reply if need more help
   

For the cover you may have to loosen your shifter linkage to be able to remove it from the bike depending on what model you have
As for the inner primary you'll have to take off the clutch the front & rear primary sprockets and chain. You can loosen the bolts to both sprockets,then loosen the chain tensioner.
Slide the front & rear sprocket & chain off with the clutch still attached. leave them together and set it aside as one big unit.
The inner primary has bolts with bent washer tabs. Bend the tabs flat so you can remove the bolts.
Thre is a lock ring around the transmission shaft that holds the inner primary on too. Remove that with lock-ring plier.
Depending on your model, you may have to remove the rotor/flywheel first before the inner primary comes off.
Don't for get to put a new engine o-ring back on the front hole of the inner primary when re-installing.

Hi,
No there is no way to lubricate the new cheap fans internally...they are made to run for a bit and then be thrown out...
I have found that by using a thin oil like WD-40 and then positioning the motor so that it runs back the shaft into the motor you can get it to work into the motor. I usually use WD-40 and then follow with a light motor or sewing machine oil. This seems to give a longer solution...

heatman101

Oh, it's been a long time since I've messed with a pre-unit Triumph. Best as I can remember, the transmission was adjustable on it's mount on the frame. You loosened the inner primary bolts and the transmission mounting bolts. There was an adjuster mounted on the frame behind the transmission, I think.

I hope this helps. It's been a LONG time since I've seen one of those and I'm an OLD man with a questionable memory.

Good Luck
Steve

There is a small "U" type clip that comes down in front area to hold it in, I assume that has been removed. The new cartridge should have come with a small tool (usually plastic) that you put over the cartridge, push it in, and turn the body of the cartridge, and it should start to ride up on higher brass sleeve and start to pull itself out. If you look at vertical part of cartridge, it is sitting back in on low spot of the sleeve. That tool, or a pair of strong needle nose pliers,needs to be against the sides of the vertical part of the cartridge, in such a way that when you rotate the cartridge, it rides up on higher part of sleeve, and pulls itself outward.