1992 gold wing 1500 looking for the fork oil level and torque specs for the tube pinch bolts and steering stem bolt?

If bearing races are removed, the bearings cannot be reused, they must be replaced.
1. Support motorcycle so front end is off floor and forks are fully extended.
2. Remove right side cover and remove maxi-fuse.
3. Remove headlamp and headlamp bracket.
4. Remove both front brake calipers.
5. Remove front wheel.
6. Remove front fender bracket with front fender.
7. Loosen but do not remove fork tube caps.
8. Loosen all pinch bolts on top and bottom triple clamps and pull fork tubes from triple clamps.
9. Remove brake hose bracket from the bottom of fork stem and bracket.
10. Remove fork stem cap and remove fork stem nut.
11. Lift handlebars from steering head with upper triple clamp attached. Be careful not to pinch or kink control cables.
12. Remove adjusting nut, seal, and upper bearing out of bearing race.
13. Pull fork stem and lower triple clamp from bottom of steering head.

You hold the axle with a screwdriver through the hole in the axle (left) and apply the full torque to the axle bolt on the right (44 ftlb). Tighten the right pinch bolts on the right - throttle - axle bolt side to 16 ftlb.... Then tighten the left - clutch - shifter side to 16 ftlb.

This is the wing service manual procedure... i hope this helps FixYa!

The Headset it self does not have a Torque value. The only part of the steering system that has specific Torques are the bolts around the stem, that is why you can't find any values on the headset or fork.

There are either 1 or 2 bolts clamping the stem to the steerer. The Torque of these is usually 5nm - 10nm, depending on stem specs and steerer material.

There are going to be 2-4 bolts in the front of the stem clamping the handlebars in place. These are rarely over 5nm, so 4-5nm is a safe value. But will depend on the stem and bar you are using.

There is one more bolt, the bolt which goes straight down through the center of the steerer. This bolt does not have a specific Torque as it is the compression adjustment for the headset and is done by feel.

With all these bolts you need to use an accurate Torque wrench. If you do not have one, then take the bike into your local shop and they will generally check the tightness of the bolts for free. Accurate torque wrenchs for these applications run from $50 to $250-.

You need 525cc's per tube, step up to a 15w as well. The factory says 10w. It doesnt provide enough damping. what do you want to know about the upper and lower pinch bolts..? size or torque specs?

To replace the front seals on your Heritage, you'll have to pull the windshield and the nachelle off the front of your bike. Lift the bike off the ground and remove the front wheel and fender. Then loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree and take the top cap nut off at the upper triple tree. Then slide the entire fork assembly out of the steering head. Take the top plug out of the upper fork tube. There will be a large spring under this plug. When you take the spring out, there should be a tapered end on the sping. Look closely and make sure you put it back in the correct direction.

Underneath the lower fork slider where the axle goes, there is an 8mm socket head bolt. This bolt takes a special "piloted hex key" to remove it but I have gotten them out using a "brand new hex key socket" and an air wrench. The hex key socket must be brand new since the depth of the hex key socket is so shallow.

Once you have the bolt out, you can pull the fork tube out of the lower slider. The seal is in the top of the slider. Remove the snap ring and pry out the seal, Notice the direction the seal is facing. After you assemble the fork tube assembly, pour in the appropiate amount of the correct oil for a "dry" rebuild.

Reassemble that tube and do the next one. Only do one tube at the time. Don't forget to torque the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. 25-30 foot pounds. Reinstall nachele and windshield.

Good Luck
Steve

Front axle nut = 50-50 ft. lbs.
Front axle pinch bolt and nut = 21-27 ft. lbs.
Front brake caliper mounting bolts = 25-30 ft. lbs.
Handlebar clamp bolts = 12-15 ft. lbs.
Front Fork
Upper bracket pinch bolts = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Lower bracket pinch bolts = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Fork stem pinch bolt = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Front fender fasteners = 9-13 ft. lbs.

First you must remove the windshield, front fender, headlight nachelle, and front wheel. Get everything off the front end. Then, take the top cap off of one fork tube at a time. I do this with it still in the front end just in case it's real tight. Once I get the top cap lossened and remvoved, I break the torque on the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree and remove the entire fork tube. With the tube off, I remove the spring and pour out all the oil. Make sure you look at the sping as you take it out, One end is different from the other and you want it back in the correct way. Now, with the oil and spring out, look at the lower end of the tube where the axle is held into the lower slider. You'll see a socket head bolt. This bolt takes an 8mm hex key. I use an air wrench to take this bolt out. Once you've got the bolt out, the inner fork tube will pull up and out of the lower slider. Pull off the rubber boot and there's snap ring just inside the top end of the slider. Remove this and pry out the old seal noting which direction the seal is facing. They go in with the lip facing down. Install the new seal and reassemble the fork tube. Install this tube on the bike, add the proper quantity of oil, install the spring and top cap, and retighten the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Then, do the other side the same way. Reassemble all parts taken off. Note: Reinstalling the top cap on some models can be pretty tough and my require a special frok spring compressor. Good Luck.

what size bolt heads on these bolts (the bolts size chart for correct torque specs is 2mm smaller than the head of the bolt on Kaw).while the forks are still off and the end caps also still off,hold them level (up/down) and by hand (which will be easy because the caps are off to let the springs come out past the tube-but leave them in as they change the amt. of fluid goin in)push down slow to compress and bottom them out then fill till you get 100mm from inside the top of the forks tube is on the mark.then pull them back to fully extended ,put the caps CAREFULLY back on so they dont stripp the soft threads up.P.S.if this was used at a track there are 2 inexpensive brass or copper bushings inside the big tubes top and a bit lower that will get worn and let the inner fork tube **** back and fourth as it compresses in and out that causes the seals to leak again very soon because it flexes the round inner part of the fork seal to become out of round (not tight all around the tube for correct sealing) from slack and to much movement from the above mentioned cheap bushings wear.I cut em out with a dremmel and freeze the new ones for easy insertion with fingers to not nick em from tappin in with a hammer,etc.good luck,wallace