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Lin Bradley Posted on Dec 10, 2018
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I have a 2012 KX450f and just replaced the fiber and steel plates in my clutch. The local Kawi shop sold me the fiber plates for a 2018 and the steel plates were aftermarket.. I’ve adjusted the lever free play and cable every way possible and the clutch is still stiff and dragging.. I followed my manual to a tee and correct torque specs on everything! Would I be better off getting the correct OEM fiber and steel plates.. I know the first 2 fiber plates are a difference thickness than the other 6! Any help would be great!

1 Answer

Neil Wylie

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  • Expert 54 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2018
Neil Wylie
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Joined: May 26, 2009
Answers
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Usually it would fit not together if it wasn,t right I found on my bike that the oil I used was to thick and was causing fast take of slip I ended up mixing to different oils together to get it good thats after two clutches

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1665 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2008

SOURCE: '03 zx600rr clutch,will not adjust

Link below has an exploded view of your clutch. Have a look and check if any difference.
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/44/Year/2003/ModelID/2904/Model/Ninja_ZX-6RR/GroupID/68853/Group/Clutch

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: honda deauville 650 2004 9000 miles,having trouble

HI it sounds like you have a problem with your plane plates in your cluch probably warped or could be wrong oil must be 10w 40 motorcycle oil not car oil,hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 58 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 22, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 1998 suzuki rm 125

did u try replacing the cable?

Anonymous

  • 563 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 11, 2009

SOURCE: CCM 604e 2001..how to correctly adjust clutch cable, clutch drags

Turn the clutch adjustment bolt towards the clutch-lever surface all the way in-not too tight. Feel the lever pressure as crisp, engage the first gear, and see if the bike moves when you engage; stops when you dis-engage. Give the adjustment-bolt a couple outward turns, and see. Repeat procedure as necessary.

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 03, 2010

SOURCE: Yamaha 1998 wr400 dirtbike clutch dragging.

What oil are you runing I like to run a Rotellat 15W-40

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Clutch instalment thick steel one side frictionplate in first or last?

You should never have steel against steel. It should be fiber plate then steel each time.
0helpful
1answer

Clutch slipping after new plates, springs, steels and housing

when you replaced clutch plates did it compress up when you fitted the end plate with springs , also did you soak the fiber plates for a couple of hrs before fitting ! on the end clutch plate is there a centre nut and screw that you can adjust the free play and did you reset this ?
1helpful
1answer

Clutch problems

Are you using synthetic oil or an oil with " Special " additives? Synthetics and additives can swell the cork on the fiber plates and cause the problem. Extremely dirty oil can cause the clutch to drag also. Check to be certain the clutch plates and other components were re-assembled in the proper secquence. The first and the last plate should be fiber. If the above has no merit in solving the problem, go to the dealer and have them adjust the clutch. Put the bike in gear when at idle, not while the engine is revving.
1helpful
1answer

1991 rm 125 clutch springs torque

The clutch springs are not the problem. Check to see if all parts were installed as shown below. The clutch plates alternate Fiber/steel/fiber/steel, starting and ending with a fiber. Be sure the teeth on the clutch rack are pointing to the rear.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

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1helpful
1answer

I have an rm125 and wen at full revs the bike begins 2 slip but if i use half revs its fine what could be the problem

If you mean the clutch begins to slip after half revs then chances are that the fiber clutch plates are worn. I suggest you get a set of fiber plates and install. Pull the right engine cover and remove the clutch end cap. Note the sequence of plates as you remove them. You will have fiber plates and steel plates. Is the first plate removed fiber or steel? If the first plate removed is fiber then the next is steel, then fiber, then steel, and so on. Install the new plates in the same fashion. So if you started with a fiber plate you need to end up with a fiber plate when the install is done.

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0helpful
2answers

How do i aline the cluch plates on a dt125r

Hi Ma_beveridge,

I guess ,since its 10splines you ought to fit in 5 steel plates ,just make sure that no steel plates come into contact with each other except with the clutch plate in between them.

Hope this will help .

GOOD -LUCK.

Knight
0helpful
1answer

Clutch basket

but it was not as deep as the original. Did the older bikes have a sallower basket. Mine is a 2005 and holds 8 fibers and 7 steel plates. I can't find any partd lists for the older bikes on the web. First a question. Are you using the original clutch fiber plates and friction disks or, did you get a new pack of plates and disks to go with the new basket. I'll explain my question below. The clutch on the 125 is sort of touchy. I tried various configurations, mainly using all steel drive plates, instead of the combination of steel and aluminum. I was only able to make it work properly using the OEM GG configuration. The 125 uses a different clutch than the larger bikes. (The 200's clutch basket has a different gear on the back, but otherwise it's clutch is the same as the larger bikes.) Make sure your replacement clutch disks & plates are not for the larger bikes. (I recently saw an ebay seller's auction that claimed to be a clutch rebuild kit for the GasGas bikes. It only had 7 friction disks. ) The original clutch for the 125 Gasser had a combination of aluminum and steel drive plates. The friction plates were all the same. The 2005 parts book lists them as being 3 iron disks and 4 aluminum disks. (In my memory, I thought it was 4 steel and 3 aluminum.) If you download and look at the parts book, http://www.gasgasmotos.es/rcs/manual...emotorec05.zip , the 125 clutch is on one of the last pages of the book. (page 48 of 50) BTW. I still have a new OEM GasGas 125 clutch pack in my stock; if anyone is interested. (side note: The clutch push rod for the 125 is only a few dollars. The clutch push rod for the larger bikes is in the $35 range.),,,
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