Question about 1983 BMW R 100 RT

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I need the torque values for the nuts securing the valve covers and for the center stud cap nut for a 1983 BMW R100RT.

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Rocker cover cap nuts are torque to 22 / 26 Nn and the 6 mm threaded valve cover nuts should be 10 - 20 Nm
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Bike-Doc

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Posted on Aug 03, 2009

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What is the Front Hub Bearing Torque specs


In case you have a issue in the future there was a recall on the vehical
Recall ID # 42233 - WHEELS:CAP/COVER/HUB plus.gif Full Details Recall Date SEP 13, 2004 Component WHEELS:CAP/COVER/HUB Model Affected Freestar Potential Units Affected Read more: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2004/ford/freestar/recalls/#ixzz389x5ubZp

But the answer to your orginal question is
Torque to this setting. Axle Nut: 96 Ft/Lbs - Apply threadlock to the last five axle shaft joint threads before installing the nut.Flange Bolts: N/A.Wheel Studs: 100 Ft/Lbs.

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75 sportster clutch plate stud nuts adjustment, how tight do you make them


Hi Anonymous, there is no torque value for the nuts because they are clamping on studs, the bible just says tighten securely but if you use locknuts and blue lock tite you will be fine. If you are a torque wrench addict like me 100 inch pounds would be safe. Now before you do your lock tite measure the distance between the releasing disc and the outer drive plate it should be .125" if it's more than .165" parts sells .040" shorter spacers, if it's .205 they sell .080" shorter spacers. Anything over that and you need to replace your friction plates. The standard length spacer is 1.530" Good luck

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I need to install an exhaust stud on my 2010 wide glide 96 ci


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How to remove a transmission for a 2002 GMC Yukon


Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
    • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
    • Rear propeller shaft.
  2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor.
    • Transfer case, if equipped.
  4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
  6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal 9308kg37.gif

    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
    • The transmission from the vehicle
  8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
    • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
    • Torque converter access plug.
    • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
    • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
4L80E/4L85E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
  2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
  4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor
  6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
    • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
    • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
    4L80E/4L85E removal 9308kg36.gif

  8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
  9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
  2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
  6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter motor
  8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
  10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
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Oct 12, 2010 | 2002 GMC Yukon XL

1 Answer

I have a 1977 Dodge. Model # M500, removing inner dually tire


THE INNER STUDS FOR THE INNER WHEELS ARE NUTS AS WELL AND SECURE THE INNER WHEEL. USE A SQUARE DRIVE TO REMOVE THESE STUD/NUTS. DRIVER SIDE NUTS/STUD ARE LEFT HANDED(STAMPED WITH A BIG (L)). AND PASS SIDE RIGHT HANDED. THESE TORQUE SPEC OUT @ 400-450 LB FT. OF TORQUE, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE A CHEATER BAR OR HEAVY DUTY INPACT!

Apr 26, 2010 | 1983 Dodge Pickup

2 Answers

1974 VW BUG HEAD TORQUE VALUES


If I remember correctly, head bolts are set at 26foot pounds, rockers at16foot pounds Always seemed low to me and was likely the reason that i've seen several with the heads falling off the block. If this is not an air cooled engine, disregard those numbers. If air cooled no sealant is necessary. Doing this from memory so I could be wrong.So, double check this info before using it.

Sep 17, 2009 | Volkswagen Beetle Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to remove broken lug on 98 Elantra. Can't get the disc off that lugs press into. Already have removed 4 bolts/nuts that secure this disc to the brake rotor. Also have already removed large castle nut...


As far as I can determine, your Elantra has standard rear disc brakes.
The lugs should be attached to the hub, which is attached to the axle. The Disc or Rotor (they're one and the same) slip onto the hub. Oftentimes the disc will seize on the hub from rust. You need to spray the center hole, where the disc goes over the hub, with spray penetrating oil. Also spray the lug stud holes. Then take a (dead blow )hammer and hit the disc around its perimeter. It should then come loose.
The broken stud can then be taken out by hitting the front of the stud with a hammer. You may want to spray the back of the stud where it seats on the hub before taking the hammer to it. Place the new stud through the rear and make sure it's seated correctly.
Clean all parts with brake parts cleaner. The lug studs should not have any lubrication on them.
You have to re-set that "large castle nut" that was removed to its proper Preload Torque. I do not know that spec, but you need to find it out, and how it's done.
Suggest you purchase a Repair Manual for your vehicle(s). It really is the best tool you can get.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1998 Hyundai Elantra

5 Answers

Can not remove lug nut caps 2003 x -type jaguar


I have an 04 xj8. the lug nuts are a good bad example of half baked engineering. the lug nuts are fabricated from ugly steel with an 11/16 hex end. to beautify this, Jaguar overlays the nut end with a stainless steel 3/4 inch cap, crimped to the nut. On top of this, the nut is to be torqued to 90+ ft-lb! The only way to remove the lug nut without damage is with a SIX POINT socket and a breaker bar or an impact wrench. Using a 12 point socket will deform the cap, causing the wrench to spin on the cap and or the cap to spin on the nut itself. If that has happened, it is possible to recover using a 15 oz or thereabouts ball peen hammer and a deep 3/4 inch impact socket (the black ones). Line up the socket to the cap, doing a best guess to where the flats are and give the socket a light blow. Keep trying that until the socket seems to stick on, then hit it harder. Eventually you will find the right point and the socket will go on and reform the cap. Then a breaker bar can remove the cap/nut. New assemblies can be had for about $6 from "partsbin" or "autohausaz".

Apr 11, 2009 | 2003 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Broken Lug Studs


You have to remove the hub to remove the bolts, if they won't come out by rotating the hub.

To remove the hub, take the cap off at the center of the hub (the cap would be poking you a the center of the hub, and is about 2 inches in diameter.

There should be a cotter key or something preventing the spindle nut from turning. Remove it. If there is a cover over the spindle nut, remove it. Take the spindle nut off. Pull lightly on the hub, and it will come off. Watch for the front bearing to pop out.

To reassemble, put hub back on spindle, put bearing and washer against bearing, thread on spindle nut and tighten while rotating hub. Back off 1/2 to 1 flat add cover (if used) and install cotter key.

Jan 29, 2009 | 2004 Jaguar S Type

1 Answer

R65LS Restoration - Another Valve Cover Problem


The OEM gaskets have adhesive built on to them. This is always the side with printing on any BMW gasket. Clearly the head has to be clean when installing a new gasket for the adhesive to adhere. I have a similar leak problem on one bike, and it appears the surfaces aren't smooth enough to seal with oe gaskets. My solution is aftermarket "silicone" gaskets, which do the trick, but are a bit tricky to use. No glue with these. http://www.rockypointcycle.com/Merch...ategory_Code=B It appears a lot of times previous owners are taken by surprise that there are outboard studs on the valve covers and try prying the cover off after only removing the center nut. This hurts the sealing surfaces, of course. When the bike was new, the OEM gasket was installed with the factory adhesive adhering it to the cylinder head only, and it didn't leak. Subsequent leaks were caused by incorrect procedures by various previous owners, untrained mechanics, etc. A lot of times the threads in the cylinder head for the center stud get stripped. This occurred especially with the too-short studs, as they didn't get threaded into the head enough.

Nov 20, 2008 | 1984 BMW R 65 LS

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