Fully rebuilt front calipers but they will not relaease
I fully rebuilt the front calipers, had the piston bores honed and polished and the pistons were also polished. New seals were also added and were lubed with brake fluid prior to installation. Everything thing was flushed or wiped clean with new brake fluid. I have also rebuilt the master cylinder. With all this being done I can not figure out why they will not release but continue to hang up. After all the work I am frustrated to know why they will not release. Thanks for any suggestions, Rob..
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
please tell me you honed the caliper before putting new piston and seals in also the inner seal is probally backwards there is only one way they go on it is to relieve the pressure off the rotor it acts like a spring if you believe you did it all correct check the porportioning valve
IS THIS A REAR OR FRONT CALIPER?
1. FRONT CALIPER: INSERT A LARGE C CLAMP WITH THE SCREW END INTO OPEN BORE OF CALIPER PISTON, THE STATIONARY END SHOULD BE SNUG AGAINST THE CALIPER END HOUSING: THAT THE PISTON MOVES IN AND OUT OF
COMPRESS C-CLAMP UNTIL CALIPER PISTON SEATS FULLY AGAINST THE CALIPER SEAL. INSTALL NEW PADS
2. REAR CALIPER: RENT AT AUTOZONE A REAR DISC CALIPER COMPRESSION TOOL. THESE CALIPER PISTONS WIND IN CLOCKWISE, INSTEAD OF JUST SLIDING BACK INTO A SMOOTH BORE. THEY HAVE GROOVES THAT FOLLOW A MATCHING SET IN THE CALIPER HOUSING.
To retract the caliper piston into the caliper bore use a spanner type wrench to turn the piston. You can also rent the correct tool from a local parts store or you may use a pair of channel lock pliers and apply slight pressure with a C clamp. You must be very careful not to damage rubber boot or piston. Turn the piston clockwise until it bottoms out fully in the caliper.
Align the cutouts in the caliper piston to the alignment pins on the back of the brake pads.
The problem lays with the Caliper itself and/or the brake hose connected to the Caliper.
However if you replaced the pads, did you also replace the Rotors or have them Turned? The old pads wear the rotor. New pads on old rotors that have not been replaced or turned may end with rubbing or stuck brakes.
A simple way to test whether it's one and/or the other:
1. Remove the Caliper from the rotor, remove the pads. Keep for now the caliper attached to the brake hose.
2. Very slowly push on the brake, exposing more of the piston out of the bore. Not all the way. Usually until the rubber dust seal/boot is fully extended.
3. Check the seal/boot for cracks and tears, and if clean or not. Bad seals may prevent the piston from re-seating.
4. Using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try repushing the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (the cup back into the hole). It should go back in realitively easy.
5. If it doesn't go back in easy: Again slowly pump the brake and re-push the pistons back out to full extended seal/boot (but not the piston out of the bore).
6. Detached the brake hose from the caliper.
7. Again using a c-clamp and pushing straight in: Try again to repush the caliper piston back into the bore without the hose attached. If it goes back-in relatively easy - the caliper is okay...it is the brake hose.
8. If the caliper piston does not go back in easily - Replace the caliper.
9. When Installing the new (reman) caliper, remember to bleed the brakes.
TRY EITHER OR #10 OR #11 BELOW:
After the new Caliper is reattached to hose and has been bled:
10. Again push on the brake petal to fully extend the caliper piston fully (rubber seal/boot fully extended) Again do not push the piston out of the bore! Try pushing the piston back into the bore. If it does not re-seat relatively easy: Replace the brake hose.
11. Another method: After replacing the new caliper back on the rotor: Assumng the entire front end (2WD front wheel drive) or entire vehicle (2WD rear wheel drive) or (4WD all the time) is jacked up off the ground
a. Put the lug nuts back on the rotor.
b. Have helper Start the vehicle and place in Drive. Don't step on gas!
c. Have then let off the brake and then engage the brake.
d. When they let off the brake watch to see if the Rotor is turning or not, if rubbing or not. Or if still sticking.
e. With a new caliper, turned or new rotors, and still a problem? It is the brake hose!
12. Replace the brake hose and try again.
Another method but more expensive:
OR Replace the calipers, brake hoses; bleed and test!
If this helped or not; or if you need additional help or have addtional questions let me know on fixya.com!
It is recommended to work with one calper at the time. Loosen the brake line where it goes into the caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into it's bracket and remove the caliper. Be careful not to bend the brake hose to much. Remove the caliper from the end of the brake hose or line. You may need to tie a rag or something on the end of the brake hose or line due to brake fluid leakage. If your bike uses DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid, do not allow the fluid to get on any painted surfaces as it will damage the paint. DOT5 generally will not damage the paint. The two brake fluids are NOT compatible. Do not mix them. Use only the proper fluid in your brake system.
Now, using low pressure compressed air, blow the piston out of the caliper. Apply the air through the hole where the brake line goes. Use the lowest pressure that will cause the piston to come out of the caliper. If the piston is very tight, quite high air pressure may be required. In this case, I like to put a piece of wood or something in the caliper to cushion the piston when it does come out of it's bore. If the piston is severely stuck, you can use a grease gun loaded with grease to force the piston out. You'll have a mess to clean up afterwards but it will usually get the stuck piston out of the caliper. When using compressed air, be very careful of the piston as it may be dangerous when it does come out. Do not get your fingers inside the caliper as the compressed air can blow the piston out against your fingers causing you injury. Use extreme caution while doing this procedure. Severe injury can occur. I've seen pistons come out of their caliper at a very high dangerous rate of speed.
Once you have the piston out, inspect the caliper and the piston for corrosion or pitting. If necessary, hone the caliper with a brake hone and polish the piston with very fine emory cloth. Install the new seal and boot into the caliper. Lubricate the piston with fresh clean brake fluid and reinstall it into the caliper. Press the piston all the way to the bottom of it's bore. Reinstall the caliper. Bleed the air out of the system and your brake caliper should function perfectly.
Test the brakes before you ride the motorcycle. Failure to correctly service the brakes can cause severe injury or even death. Make sure your brakes work properly before riding the motorcycle. Whenever you are working on your own motorcycle, it is your responsibility to make sure the bike is safe to ride when finished. This job can be hazardous but if one uses their head, it can be done safely. If you have any doubts, it may be best to remove the calipers and have a qualified mechanic rebuild the calipers for you. Better safe than sorry.
Best bet is to get a rebuilt caliper. Unless you bought a reseal kit and hone to bore out, chances are its going to leak. But if you inclined to try to put it back in because you accidently pushed it out all it takes is just pushinh it back in with the bleeder open to let the air out when pusing it in.
while the seals in the calipers are replaceable, its probably easier just to get a new/re manufactured caliper. if for any reason the seals don't work perfectly you could lose control of the vehicle when attempting to stop. with that said i'll try to explain the best i can how to replace the seals in the calipers for that vehicle.
1. jack up the front of the vehicle, place on jackstands and remove the front wheels, make sure the parking brake is on 2. unbolt the caliper and unbolt the brake line from the caliper and take caliper to a clean bench 3. remove the dust boot retaining ring on the caliper that holds the boot to the caliper itself 4. using a blowgun with a rubber tip apply low pressure compressed air where the brake line was bolted to the caliper to push the piston out of the bore (be carefull and ready because the piston may shoot out with some force) 5. when the piston comes out you will need to replace the dust boot and the seal so remove the boot and seal carefully so you don't scratch the piston ( the seal is actually in the caliper piston bore hole)and throw out the old seal and boot. 6. inspect all the surfaces and make sure there are no imperfections at all on the piston, the piston bore, or the caliper, if the surfaces are marred in anyway, replace the caliper, if they are good, using brake cleen and compressed air clean all parts then dry them 7. get the new seal and lubricate with DOT 3 brake fluid 8. install new seal into the caliper bore 9. apply a thin coat of DOT 3 brake fluid to the piston itself 10. install bottom half the the caliper piston into the caliper bore. 11. install new dust boot seal onto the piston 12. compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore 13. fully seat the dust boot seal into the caliper and install retaining ring 14. reinstall on vehicle (make sure to use a NEW copper washer on the brake line to caliper fitting) and bleed the braking system while checking for leaks.
repeat process for the other side.
if the caliper leaks at all from the piston after seal replacement, replace the caliper.
make sure you properly bleed the brakes before attempting to drive your car.
*these direction were extracted from personal experience and manufacturer information*
what sort of rings were used.you could cut open the oil filter and see whats in there what condition were the bottom end bearings in.running too hot?what sort of pistons,forged or cast?how was it run in