Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy
I installed a new anti-rattle spring on the front of my 2003 fat boy still have a rattle. whats up? @
Hi, Alan you may have installed the spring incorrectly, for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disk brake parts, otherwise known as pad springs. They're on there from the factory. Unless someone was drunk at work again, then the caliper comes off just like changing the pads and the clips go in first, then the pads snap in and caliper goes back on.
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
Ok, I'm not exactly sure what the problem is on your Twin Cam but I can assure you that it is oil pump related. One the earlier models with the external pump, you had two pumps in one body. One pump was a "feed" pump that pumped oil into the engine. The other pump was a "scavenger" pump that pumped oil out of the engine back to the tank.
When Harley designed the Twin Cam engine, they employed a better design of pump inside the engine. It's located in the gear case along with the cams. I do not know too much about the Twin Cam engine as I specialize on the older Evolution, Shovelhead, and Panhead engnes. The older engines had a breather gear that used the crankcase pressure built up inside the engne to blow the oil from the crankcase into the gear case. I don't know if the Twin Cam still uses that method of getting the oil out of the crankcase and into the gear case.
So, with my limited knowledge of the oil pump on the Twin Cam, I'd say that this is the problem. You need to find someone that is familiar with the construction of the pump. It may be that the entire pump is bad or something as simple as a sheared pin.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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