Question about 2001 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard

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Is there a way to keep the tensioner in place on the throttle tensioner? I have one on my 2001 FLHT and it is always slipping up and out of position.

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You sure it's assembled correctly? Check a service manual or a friend's bike. The throttle assembly would have to be REALLY worn for the tensioner to come loose. Possible bent tensioner.

Posted on Aug 12, 2009

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2001 ectraglide standard ticking noise on decel sounds like valves ticking any ideas 63000 miles cam tensioners?


Hi Anonymous, your push rods are non adjustable but you do have 4 options:
1. with engine at operating temperature do a quick series of 5 throttle revs to 1000 RPM'S below red line.
2. Try an engine oil additive Liquid Molly Tappet Stop Noise or Risoline Engine Treatment.
3. Cut out stock push rods with bolt cutters, remove suspect lifter, disassemble lifter and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air especially under the lifter check plate, reassemble and install, replace push rods with Taper Lite Adjustable push rods.
4. Buy new lifters.
Good luck and have nice day.

Apr 10, 2013 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

REpace alternator belt


if you mean serpentine belt, there is a tensioner pulley that keeps it tight. remember how it goes between everything for when you put the new one on. use the tensioner pulley to relieve the tension (it will move inward towards the engine) and while holding the pulley, slip the old belt off. then fit the new one around everything else before the tensioner pulley. then pull the tensioner pulley inwards again, slip the new belt over the tensioner pulley, then let it out slowly. make sure that all of the cogs on the belt are in the right place of the pulleys (if they arent, it will most likey slip into place when the engines starts but still might not want to chance it)

Dec 01, 2012 | 1996 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

02 electra glide choke issue


Hi Alan, for more information about your question please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Choke Cable Tension Adjustment

Sep 09, 2012 | 2002 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

METALLIC INTERMITTANT NOISE FROM ENGINE FRONT END AREA AT 2000 RPM 5TH GEAR LIGHT THROTTLE -- REPLACED TENSIONER AND ADJUSTED - NO HELP


Hi Paulg970, I'm sorry but I just loaned my listening ears to the lead technician at your local Harley Dealer so he could take your bike for a test ride and evaluate the noise. Have a nice day.

Jul 29, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Bobbin holders keeps slipping and thread tension issues


Make sure the needle is at it's highest position.

Lift the latch on the back of the bobbin case.

Hold it open and then insert it into the shuttle - finger (not yours, the upright "finger"on the case) pointing up.

You may have to move the bobbin case lightly to the left or right before it clicks into place.

When you thread the machine always make sure the presser foot lever is up and this will ensure proper tension of the top thread.

If you need a manual, you can view or download free at this site - http://www.brother-usa.com/manuals/default.aspx?PGID=3&R3ModelID=LS1217

Mar 25, 2010 | Brother LS-1217 Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

The tensioner pulley keeps making a loud squeak when you put on the gas and then the pulley breaks.


either your belt is slipping or the bearing in the tensioner pulley is bad ,need repace it, slip the belt off and remove the pulley ,hope this helps,robert b.

Jun 24, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How to route the belt


hi there, I am a dryer repairman of some six years experience.
I used to have this problem also, at the beginning of my work!
Firstly, put the "belt guide" in its correct postion, that is with the 2 metal prongs fitted into the 2 slots on the mounting plate below the motor. If it doesnt stay in place, remove and bend the 2 metal prongs outwards slightly. (belt guide = idler pulley assembly)
Secondly, feed the belt in, through the middle of the metal idler pulley arm, and loop it over the bottom pulley of the motor. Next, pull the belt out to the side, to check that its properly located on the pulley. You can pull the belt to the side with one hand, while feeling with the other, if the belt is neatly on the pulley.
Thirdly, while keeping a little tension always on the belt, slip it over the drum while keeping the idler pulley on the outside (RH side ) of the belt. Now reposition the belt on the idler pulley. While doing this, you are always keeping a little tension on the belt, by pulling out to the side, taking up the slack with left hand. Always keep a little tension on the belt, until spring is in place. Next, you push the belt down into its normal running position on the drum, this can be just approximate for now.
Fourthly, you fit the tensioning spring, between the idler pulley arm, and the hole in the seam of the dryer case. (or if there is a belt-break switch, you put it around that) This is a bit tricky, as you need a strong right hand to stretch the spring. Can use pliers to help, but sometimes makes it harder!
Lastly, after you have done all this and finished, must check that all is firmly in place before closing up the dryer. Rotate the motor pulley by hand, carefully, to see if the belt is running smoothly, not twisted or misaligned. Correct as needed. If there is a loud TWANG, then the idler pulley has come out of its seat, and you begin again from step one, being more careful, checking as you go.

Apr 23, 2008 | Dryers

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