I recently had a new exhaust system and two new tyres fitted
to my 2001 BMK Doodo 125, after the work was carried out two problems have
started to occur. My clutch is starting to slip at speeds over 40mph and
especially if I am trying to accelerate as fast as possible. The other problem
is my ‘MPH’ speedometer needle jumps up and down erratically - this is
experienced at the same time as the clutch seems to be slipping, so would I be
right to assume the problems may be connected? And any ideas on why my clutch may be slipping at
higher speeds? Any ideas or solutions will be appreciated, thanks JD
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Re: MBK Doodo 125 question
Check the clutch lever free play. It should have about 3/4 inch of movement before any resistance is felt. The speedometer problem may be a bad inner flexible shaft within the speedometer cable. Unscrew the meter end of the cable and pull out the flex shaft--it may be frayed (replace) or just need lubrication.
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keep it pushed dowm just passed center use fairy liquid to make it slipper for you. your puncture sand the aera blow off use only a pacth & soluition for automotive purpous apply soluition and leave dry almost like only the glase gone off it peel off the back off the pacth and stick rub it well in
this new exhaust has thrown the engine way out of tune, and the carbs need to be re-set up as the bike is now running very week,,,,you will burn a hole in a piston very soon if you dont re-tune it,,,this could also be causing some if not all of the vibration your getting, but check the sprokets are running true life the rear of the bike clear of the ground and spin the rear wheel if you feel or here a grinding sound its the sprokets not meshing with the chain also did you have the new tyer balanced when it was fitted???
this also causes vibration
Its a little hard to tell without seeing the exhaust color.Black is oil.brown is fuel.If the bad cyl. still has a good plug it may not be oil.Check the smoky exhaust carby.It may be you do not have complete firing on the bad cyl.MAYBE.Does the bike run well once you get the revs up under load?Check for inlet leaks that may change the fuel mixture on the suss. cyl.There is a few more things but start at these things 1st.After a complete rebuild,these problems do start.I hope this helps
the retail value in good condition is approx $1,500. meaning it looks good, runs good, good tires, breaks,chain and sprokets. but with the extras you have and the after market up grades, i would start with a little higher price.
check the tyre for a nail or whatever punctured the first tube, when you remove the tube keep it in the same position as it was when it was in the tyre, blow it up and check the hole then check the corresponding place in the tyre for the nail
If the new hole is a small split you may have damaged it during fitting
As always, correct pressure depends on the tyre fitted but if it is running with the standard tyres that it had fitted from new then:
Single rider: Front is 1.75 bar (25 PSI) Rear 2.0 (29 PSI)
Fully loaded (Panniers and or pillion passenger) Front 2.0 bar (29 PSI) Rear 2.25 bar (32 PSI)
These settings from the book for a 2006 model, though I imagine that they apply to all with very little if any variation