Question about 2000 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder

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Bike stalls out in neutral and wont start back up while riding

I drilled the baffles out and did not rejet. My bike has had problems starting. I took my battery to auto zone and they told me my battery was good. When I put the bike on my charger it starts right up. But if I turn the bike off it will not start again even though the battery is charged. When I jump the bike and get it going again, it will just stall out as I'm riding and won't start again unless I jump it again. While riding the bike will backfire really loud and then stop.

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  • cincity09 Aug 01, 2009

    i cant see the water level because the batery is a black cased bikemaster battery. What are the problems to the engine running lean. How is that going to effect the bike?

  • cincity09 Aug 01, 2009

    i cant see the water level because the batery is a black cased bikemaster battery. What are the problems to the engine running lean. How is that going to effect the bike?

  • cincity09 Aug 01, 2009

    i cant see the water level because the batery is a black cased bikemaster battery. What are the problems to the engine running lean. How is that going to effect the bike?

  • cincity09 Aug 02, 2009

    thanks for the advice. i used a muti meter and tested the battery, which is good....i think the regulator/rectifire is not working, because when the bike was on and i checked the battery it read 12.6 and i read on another post it should read around 14.



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Check that the side stand is returning to the foldfed position,, they are known to work lose and imobilise the starter mech

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

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It sounds like the battery may be bad in spite of Auto-Zone's pronouncement. The connectors to the battery may be bad enough to make a poor connection to the battery posts. Is the battery water level up to the line in each cell?
Re-jet one step bigger as the baffle removal will make it run lean.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • drallim Aug 02, 2009

    If the bike runs lean at high speeds, it can warp the exhaust valves and/or burn a hole in a piston. It will also turn the exhaust pipes blue due to the heat.
    To test the battery, turn on the headlight. A good battery should run it for an hour or two. If you get nothing, get a test light (one from an auto parts store--has a metal probe in a plastic handle which has a small light in it, and a wire with clip out the other end) and check across the battery terminals. If battery is good and well charged, it will light the lamp. Next, connect the tester across the wire ends that connect to the battery. It should light. If not, one of the wire ends is not making good contact with it's battery post. Hook the light between each battery post and the wire connected to it. The one with the bad connection will light the lamp. Scrape clean both post and wire connector. That should light the headlamp and allow the bike to start normally. If the test light never comes on in the first test, remove the battery and put on charge for at least 4 hours. Remove the charger and apply the test lamp. If it is dead, get a new battery--preferably one with a clear plastic case so that you can check the water level.This is a long winded test of the battery--hope it helps.

  • drallim Aug 02, 2009

    Turn on the headlight and retest the battery with your multi-meter. I think that you will read much less voltage. The battery will read full voltage with NO load (the meter has fairly high impedance), but will fall to near zero with a load. You must run a charge on the battery for 4 to 6 hours, then try the headlight again. 12.6 volts is the normal, at rest, value of the battery. The voltage should rise to ~14 volts with the engine running somewhat above idle. The battery needs to be fully charged externally before tackling the charging problem on the bike.



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