Question about 2007 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe
2007 Royal Star Tour Deluxe won't start. I've replaced the battery and checked fuses. Nothing happens when I turn the key. I've heard of ignition problems before. Anyone have a similar issue? @
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
HELP Just bought Yahmaha Royal Star Deluxe 1998 and now it wont start
key ignition won turn
Yamaha XVZ1300 1999 2006 Workshop Service Repair Manual Download Manuals... $15
Yamaha Royal Star XVZ13CTV Owner Manual
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Posted on Feb 27, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.
Posted on Jul 25, 2010
You didn't mention where the fuel is coming from, so I'll start from the fuel pump; if it's not leaking with the key off, it has to be between the fuel pump and the carburetors.
First, remove the driver's seat, then the left side cover (it's the color matched cover under the front seat; it's held on by one bolt, the one toward the back of the motorcycle, and a friction pin through a grommet on the inside of the side cover, low and toward the center of the bike). Next remove the center cover, held on by pins and grommets on both sides. You've now exposed the fuel pump and filter, you can see the supply line from the fuel tank to to the pump, the output of the pump to the filter, and the line from the filter back toward the carburetors.
Check all exposed hoses and clamps for cracks, tears or loose connections. If none are evident, turn on the key; you should now be able to detect the source of the leak IF it's in the vicinity of the fuel pump and filter. The pump puts out 2-3 lbs. of pressure; a leak in that area should be obvious.
If you've detected no leakage there, reinstall the center cover, then the left cover, and proceed to the vicinity of the fuel tank and engine. Remove the fuel tank mounting bolts (there are two under the front of the tank, through tabs on the underside of the tank to the sides of the frame; there is also a bolt through a special washer and rubber insulator to the top of the frame at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank enough that you can see the fuel feed lines on both sides, as well as the fuel supply line from the fuel pump and filter. Examine lines on both sides, looking for cracks, tears of loose connections. Turn on the key, a leak in this vicinity should be immediately evident.
If none of the supply lines are leaking, the carburetors will have to be removed individually and checked for stuck needles, bad floats, or leaks in the carburetor housing. Those leaks, however, are typically sufficiently small that they would not be described as "gasoline pouring out".
Posted on Jul 27, 2010
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