Question about 2004 Suzuki VL 1500 Intruder LC

3 Answers

No signal to ignition coil.

Coil is getting 12volts but no signal from the igniter. some resistance specs for the pulse generator and a wiring diagram would be helpful.

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  • barry916 Jul 31, 2009

    I need some tech specs for the sensor , resistance and wiring diagram for this bike.
    Regards, Barry

  • barry916 Jul 31, 2009

    Thanks for the link. the signal generator is located with the stator. one wire is green and I can not make out the other color. if you know it it would be great, but do you know the resistance for this signal generator?





    Regards, Barry

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3 Answers

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Trace wires from igniter to stator

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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Hi...
Here is the wiring diagram...
no signal to ignition coil. - a6e00fc.gif
This is not quit visible so check the link...

http://www.iocg.de/iocg_e/misc.html

Thanks
Smith

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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Gets it From Crank Sensor

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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1 Answer

Why is my 97 Honda 4 wheeler not getting fire


There are three items that are connected together needed to create spark on your 1997 Honda 4-wheeler, regardless of which model it is.
Before we go through a checklist of these three important parts, look for a black wire with a white stripe that runs to the ignition switch and kill button from the CDI box. Disconnect this wire before it gets to the ignition switch and kill button, then check for spark. The most likely cause is a broken kill switch on the handlebar, or shorted ignition switch. Such a condition grounds this wire and kills the spark.
If this test did not restore the spark, continue reading...
Here is what is required to create a spark.

First, the alternator has one coil which generates a high voltage--about 125 Volts AC for the CDI ignitor box.

Second, there is a pulse voltage generated once every revolution of the engine that goes to the CDI box. This pulse causes the CDI to dump its stored energy from the 125 volt line into the primary of the ignition coil.

Third, If the two connections of the wire that runs from the CDI to the Coil are BOTH SHINY clean, the ignition coil will generate a spark.

If any one of these 3 don't happen, the spark will go away. Of these three, item 3 -- one or two tarnished and/or dirty connectors -- is the most likely cause. Just an added resistance of 0.3 Ohms or more in the CDI to Coil connections will cause the ignition to fail. No other wires have to be this clean.

Sep 26, 2014 | Motorcycles

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What grounds the coils


The ignition module in the distributor normally handles this job as it controls the current flow through the coil.

Apr 26, 2014 | 2000 Hyundai Sonata

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Coil not firing


Either your coils are bad, or they are not getting power, or they are not getting a signal from the pulse coils.
Check ignition fuses
Check for ~12V at coils with ignition on.
Find pulse coil connector, check resistance across leads, should NOT be zero, and should not be infinite, consider about 100 ohms OK. (These wear out more often than the coils.)
If these three checks are OK, check the primary and secondary resistance of your coils. The resistance across the wire connections on the coil body should be about 10X the resistance from the spark plug wire to the coil connection.
All the best!


Apr 13, 2014 | 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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No spark on spark plug how to check ignator coil and pulse generator


To check the ignition coil, unplug the wires going to it and check the resistance with an ohm meter. There are two parts of it to check, the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit is the low voltage side where the black and green wires from the harness attach. The resistance through this part of the coil should be between 0.16 and 0.19 ohms. Check the secondary side by measuring the resistance between the spark plug lead and the primary side where the green wire was attached. The resistance there should be between 3.69 and 4.51 ohms.
The resistance through the pulse generator, as measured between the two wires that come from it, should be between 468 and 572 ohms.
Generally, the various components of the ignition system are very trouble free. If you're not getting spark to the spark plug, be sure to check all of the bike's wire harness and connectors for corrosion, melted connectors, broken wires, etc.

Nov 22, 2009 | 2003 Honda XR 650 L

2 Answers

When Car Get Warm Cut's Out Won't Start Back Up For 24 Hour's


  • First determine if it is fuel or spark
  • A weak fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, fuel tank emissions not working, no venting to tank.
  • If you find it is a spark problem follow this easy test for no spark, a weak coil will stop working when it gets hot. Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning? (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
    Broken timing belt or chain?

    Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil with key on ? (the small wires running to the coil, known as the primary circuit)
    If so then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
    Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
    Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
    If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
    No flashing signal?
    Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
    If they are good,
    It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
    With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
    If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


    If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
    Hope this helps, cheers

Oct 02, 2009 | 1995 Hyundai Sonata

2 Answers

I have no spark i replaced the spark plugs spark wires and the coil pack and still nothing my power distribution box is fine any ideas


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Sep 29, 2009 | 1992 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Hi, 94 seville, no spark, how do I check crank and cam sensors? coil pack? ignition control module? I am trying to determine why no spark. Any help in explaining how to check these items would be great....


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jun 27, 2009 | 1995 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

No spark in my 1999 silverado 4x4 4.8 engine


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jun 01, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

97 saturn sl1 drove in fine, won't start just crank. no spark


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jan 12, 2009 | 1997 Saturn SL

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