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You need to replace the headset bearings. Very simple job but you will need some grease.
Undo the brake lines from the levers and remove handle bars from the stem and set aside. Undo the top bolt on the stem, this will loosen it and pull it out of the headset.
Use a large jaw spanner to undo the headset locking top nut. Remove that and the washer, until you see the ball bearing race.
Remove and check for damage. If any balls are missing or are crushed/damaged, you need a new set. Clean the headset area of old grease and refit with plenty of thick grease.
elec. dose not know what kind off bike its on so don't worry about that. get a test light ( any parts store will have most are a few bucks ) take the light and you see two litttle metal dots, hook your test light on something that is grounded... the ground on the battery, the motor ect.... one touch the point off the test light to the metal dots if both make it light up then your brake light is stuck on. If so start at you swtich on the LH side foot peg, there will be a spring that hooks to the swtich and brake lever make sure it is not hung up on something. Unhook the spring and check the light. If your front brake light is working then adj the switch, unplug the swtich so you can turn it screw it down and it will lower where the spring hooks to it so the switch turns off hook the spring back up and try it. If when you test your bulb plug and both metal dots don't light up then yes your not get power check your fuse
This is by design. When you have new pads on the bike and a rotor within limits the lever has very limited travel before engaging.
As these parts wear the position of which the lever engages changes. Unless you know that at the last brake pad change the caliper was "centered" this could account for the travel and will result in premature wear on the components.
Now that you have bled the brakes and everything seems okay, try pumping the brake lever many times while the bike is stationary. Do the brakes build up pressure and not release? If everything still seems okay after you do that I would take the bike for a ride around the neighborhood. Stop every few minutes to make sure the disc isn't heating up indicating the brakes may not be releasing properly.
If the master cylinder is working properly, when you pull the brake lever fluid is pumped into the brake line. This forces the brake pads against the brake disc, stopping the bike. When you let off the lever the fluid is allowed back into the master cylinder. If the cylinder does not release the fluid it could put a quick end to your riding. I would not be comfortable letting someone ride this bike very far until I took the master cylinder apart and satisfied myself that it was problem free.
find where the cable makes contact near the wheel, with the lever of the brake. squeeze the 2 levers toghether(rubber-bands are useful) then loosen the bolt holding the cable. take out some of the slack and re-tighten. remove rubber band. repeat as necessary to achieve desired tension.
hope this helps!!?
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