Question about 1983 Honda GL 1100 Innerstate Gold Wing

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My rear brake system is locking up. i have had the calipers rebuilt and the master cylinder rebuilt and the still lock up after 3-4 miles. where do i go from here?

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  • trojanbikes Jul 30, 2009

    Is there a way you can tell if the master cylinder is working properly or not? Could it be the pressure control valve? Thank you!

  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    it over heats in a 3 mile ride motor was just rebuilt 20 miles ago

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  • Honda Master
  • 4,514 Answers

You sure u have the right flluid in there also sounds like you master c is not workin rite-did you have dealership boys work on it. its worth gettin onother opinion from an old school mech in your town. you could get a manual for 83 honda at a bookstore or go to library under 629 vehicle section-no whealies

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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2 Answers

Brake system failure


I think brake proportional Valve (or Brake pressure regulator) which usually a part of Master cylinder is suspicious.
It regulates pressure to Front and Rear brake line.

If I were you, I try to draw air from Master-cylinder side (not Caliper side).
(Bleed from connector between Master-cylinder and pipe, same way as caliper. someone keep pushing brake then you lose connector then tight. Don't forget to put towel under master cylinder to catch brake fluid)
If air trapped in Proportional valve (pressure regulator), pressure won't relay to rear brake line but only front side.
Front has two separate line from master cylinder (right and left) but rear goes in one line from master cylinder then separate at rear.

Did you noticed both rear brake dragged when it's hot day ?
Because when air get hot, air expand and pushes to caliper and drag but not respond to your pedal.
(calipers don't respond when you push pedal, but it's pushes calipers by itself even you are not pushing pedal, when it's hot because air expand)
Sometimes, seal get old and lose pressure for only one side (front or rear).

if this happened after you did brake job, or you notice your brake was vapor locked (too much brake on hot day then brake fluid boiled), maybe air bleed and whole fluid change may solve.
if you didn't have any unusual activity but it gradually losing pressure to rear, I suspect master cylinder (proportional valve seal).

Sorry I don't have exact e46 master cylinder diagram but basic diagram, hope you can understand what I am talking about.
Picture shows "leak" but this case "Air" in somewhere in pink.
or lose seal on rear piston.

25989474-goldldc3aki35lcvobofcxjr-2-0.gif

Dec 02, 2015 | Halonet 99-05 BMW E46 3-SERIES 2/4/5DR,...

1 Answer

Calipers keep locking down


are you serious ? this should not happen , it tells me your master cylinder is @ fault , too much pressure, unbalanced system, not enough pressure to rear drums, bleed improperly, if you have abs brakes which I 'm sure you do, maybe the proportioning valve is stuck, should be in a balanced position. if bleeding does not help to resolve this, then replace the valve, rebleed the entire system, according to spec, back to front, LR,RR,RF,LF. UNLESS YOURS IS DIFFERANT. if you also suspect master cylinder, replace it also. but the VALVE needs to be replaced no matter what !

Mar 07, 2013 | 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

93 honda accord the brakes lock down as soon as it gets warm


I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine once or twice, but then they fail to release after only a short amount of use. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the car will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving the car until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your Accord has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake, ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.

May 18, 2011 | 1993 Honda Accord

2 Answers

BRAKES LOCK UP WHILE DRIVING 1989 NISSAN D21


I am interpreting your description to mean that the brakes seem to work fine for a while, but then they fail to release after a period of driving. If sounds right, the most common cause for this is that one or more of your disk brake calipers is sticking, failing to release even after you let off the brake pedal. Normally, only one caliper will fail at one time, meaning that the vehicle will pull strongly to the side where the brake has locked up. You can also test this theory by driving your Nissan until it starts to drag. Pull over and lightly touch each of the tire rims. One or more of them should be hot--possibly burning hot--to the touch from all the heat that's been generated by the stuck brake caliper. A wheel with a properly working brake will probably feel warm to the touch--but not super-hot, unless you've just completed a motorcross course or something that gave your brakes a real workout.

You can buy rebuild kits for most brake calipers, but, in all honesty, it may cost almost the same and be better in the long run to buy a factory-rebuilt caliper, trading in your old one for its core. Factory rebuilt calipers are sandblasted and carefully cleaned and painted before the new parts are installed; quite frankly, I've never done any of that when I've rebuilt my own calipers.

It's possible that you might have frozen calipers even if both brakes on an axle (i.e., both front or both back wheels) are locking up. You might have gotten moisture into both of them by driving through a deep puddle, etc.--or you might not have noticed the problem until both calipers started acting up, holding back your car even more. I don't believe that your truck has any kind of special one-way pressure relief valves in the brake lines, outside of what's in your master cylinder.

Another cause for your braking problem might be your master cylinder. Ordinarily, master cylinder problems show up as loss of braking--your brake pedal goes to the floor or becomes very mushy. However, it's possible that a faulty master cylinder with some internal corrosion could be failing to release pressure after it's been applied. If you've excluded the brake calipers as a cause, this would be the next place I'd check.

A final thought is to think about the age of the brake fluid in your system. If it's older than a few years--or you can't remember the last time your system was flushed--chances are that the fluid is old and has absorbed too much water to perform at its original specifications. I don't think that water in the lines would tend to lock up your brakes, but you could try flushing out your brake system by bleeding all the lines and feeding a steady supply of fresh fluid into your master cylinder. Start with the rear brakes and bleed the front brake that's closest to the master cylinder last. This won't be a quick pump the brakes a few times and look for air bubbles kind of bleed. Instead, you'll want to pull out a half cup or more of fluid at each brake (more at the back, to compensate for all the fluid in the extended brake lines), ensuring that fresh brake fluid is being pulled into the brake lines and into the brake fluid reservoirs at the calipers and at the rear drums.

May 18, 2011 | 1989 Nissan Hardbody King

1 Answer

1999 Ford E350 van problem: brake pedal is soft; have replaced master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders, rear brake shoes and drums, front calipers, rotors and discs; have bled master cylinder before...


Good question, on the antilock system is a bleader too and bleade it the same way you bleade the caliper. After all is done adjust the rear brakes, they should have a drag to them.

Feb 23, 2011 | 2007 Ford E-350 Super Duty Length XLT

1 Answer

My 1984 Cadillac has had new brake pads and new master cylinder and new rear calipers. Now the brake pedal rises up and my left rear caliper is locking the wheel up after 3- 7 miles


I would take it up with the guy who put the caliper in. if that was you i would get it up in the air and see what you did to cause this. take a close look at the parking brake mechanism and cable, used to see frozen cables cause this on drum brakes

Dec 27, 2010 | 1984 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

Hi, I am having problems with my ST1100 ABS/CTS pan, the rear brake seems to be just on to make the rear disc hot, i have changed the pads and changed the brake fluid, still the same problem. I have...


Fluid flows back into the brake fluid reservoir through a pin hole. There is a large opening that feeds the master cylinder. If the fluid return pin hole becomes plugged the pressure builds up in the system till the brake locks up the wheel. My experience is with standard braking systems not ABS but I assume there is still a fluid return hole that is smaller than the feeder hole. I suggest you take apart the master cylinder and carefully clean it making sure small passageways are clear. Normally minor binding is just a dirty brake cylinder that is not floating correctly. On the road a pressure wash of the caliper and pistons will keep you rolling till you disassemble and properly clean the floating components. With an ABS system there may be a second pressure release system that is keeping the system from locking up. Pressure wash the system. If that does not work, Disassemble and clean the components ( master cylinder assembly and caliper floating components). If that does not work you may have to have a dealer diagnose a possible problem with the ABS system

Sep 20, 2010 | Honda ST 1100 Pan European (cbs-abs met...

1 Answer

When driving the brakes will lock up randomly


You have a Master Cylinder/Vacum problem. The Master Cylinder Utilizes Vacum to provided Boost, if your vacum system is not working properly your brakes will malfunction. If the issue is a rear brake locking up double check your brake assembly on the rears. They are spring and Caliper combination and if the emergency brake cable is routed wrong or getting snagged it will activate the brakes and cause them teo lock up.

Jan 21, 2010 | 1999 Mercury Mountaineer

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