One thing to take into consideration is the age of your battery. In several instances, the older the battery, the less cold cranking amps they have. A trickle charger is good for keeping a battery's voltage charged however that does not really tell you if your battery has a problem. Starters require a lot of amps to turn your engine over. If you have a regular battery charger, put the battery on charge and hopefully the amps will increase. If you get the vehicle started, take it to a battery shop and they can put it on a tester and tell you if you have sufficient cold cranking amps (CCA). They may have to do a full charge on the battery to get the CCA up. If you cannot get your vehicle started and can take it to a battery shop, they can tell you the same thing without it being hooked up to your vehicle. I hope this helps. Once your battery issue is resolved and you are not going to run a vehicle for quite some time, you can keep the vehicle hooked up to a trickle charger (a good one) and your vehicle should start up every time. Be sure to remove it before starting the vehicle or driving.
SOURCE: 98 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4X2 suddenly dies .....
It sounds like you have some **** in the gas tank that is being drawn to the pickup blocking it.
Have seen this and because it seems so random, it can drive ya nuts.
You might carry a coffee can with you and pull the line from the fuel rail when this happens stick it in the can and just have someone turn the key on for a few seconds.
Beware though, it comes out with force.
Also possible is a failed fuel pressure regulator.
Those aren't expensive and . . . well, not very good either.
SOURCE: 03 Altima ( 2.5 ) crank position sensor - retired ASE Master Teck
and YOU took much to long to answer --BUT thanks for your attempt -
SOURCE: 99 dodge 1500 will not idle after jump start
i had hte same problem wiht my 95 it sat for two months and it did this either youhave a couple of dead cells in your battery or you alterator could be going bad wither that or a nasty combination of them both
SOURCE: My 2007 tundra went dead. The ignition won't start
There are several possibilities ranging from a defective starter, to bad cable connections, to the onboard security system locking out the starter relay, or an aftermarket accessory interfering with the starter circuit, or a locked-up/damaged engine.
I have had vehicles towed into my shop for similar complaints when the only problem was that the customer was using a cheap duplicate key that they had made at the hardware store that did not have the required computer chip in it.
I have also had vehicles towed in where the customer had replaced the battery and did not have good cable connections or forgot to connect one of the wires that was supposed to to get hooked-up to the battery connector.
Then there are the questions: Are you getting any kind of "clicking" noises when turning the key or is it completely dead? If it is clicking, WHAT is clicking? Is it the starter motor itself that you hear or just the starter motor relay? Do you have battery power at the starter "S" terminal when turning the key? If not, is the transmission selector in "PARK"? Does the shift indicator on the dash indicate that the transmission range sensor is in "PARK"? (possible defective transmission range sensor) Are there any fault codes stored in ANY of the modules connected to your onboard computer network?
It is really hard to say without being able to see the truck.
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