Question about 1986 Yamaha FJ 1100

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Needle n seat adjustment yamaha virago 920

Where should the screw seat in tube of diapghram slide? it is hsc40 hitachi carb

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Hello dnjvp...The Hitachi HSC 40mm carbs on the 920 can be jetted and modded as needed to give you the right mixture for any engine or exhaust modifications.
Here is the breakdown for the slide and the internal parts. Check the needle for wear, clean all parts and put back together. Make sure you hold the diaphragm up to the light and check for pinholes. If any are found use a sealer like to fix.

needle n seat adjustment yamaha virago 920 - picture3.gif
Good luck...i hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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I can not get an even tickover


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://viragohelp.com/virago-hitachi-carburetors
http://viragohelp.com/virago-carburetor-cv
Yamaha XV 535 DX Virago Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2000/LIT-11626-13-16_110.pdf

Jul 03, 2014 | 1998 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX

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I have a 1988 750 Virago I just rebuilt my carbs so I decided to change the oil also and I found that there was gas in the oil. What could cause this.


hiya

when you rebuilt the carbs did you adjust the floats or needles because it sounds like you are flooding and the gas is leaking out

hope this helps

John

Oct 15, 2011 | 1988 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX

1 Answer

Looking for parts diaram for hitachi carborators for a1983 Yamaha virago 920


Go to the following website and you can see an exploded parts diagram for your carb. Please rate my answer. Thanks. www.babbittsonline.com

Aug 04, 2011 | Yamaha LX 125cc 4T Motorcycles

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Hi I have an '81 yamaha virago 750,I don't know how to adjust the carbs,it getting too much gas and I was told I needed to close the gas off and open the air.....????


Below is a diagram. Turn the air screw inward until it lightly seats then open it up two turns. Set the idle speed with the throttle screw. The throttle screw pushes against a lever on the outside of the carb. From there, adjust the air screw for best idle speed. Do this for both carbs. Be sure the air cleaner is clean.
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Apr 25, 2011 | Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hello I have a 1997 yamaha Virago 535s with only 900 miles when I now try to start it its starts staight away but when I try to throttle it up it cuts out immediately. On inspection of the float chambers...


Hi, Johndunnifa and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Float needle and seat sticking.
5. Float level too low.
6. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
7. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
8. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
9. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
10. Slow fuel jet clogged.
11. Faulty fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need please Click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://viragotech.com/newtech/Only%20starts%20idles%20on%20choke%20dies%20when%20you%20give%20it%20gas%20(SOLVED).htm
http://viragohelp.com/virago-owners-clubvoc-archives/engine-stalls-using-choke
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http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2005/LIT-11626-18-21_1000.pdf

Aug 30, 2010 | 1997 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX

1 Answer

My 1983 yamaha virago 500 is having trouble around 3 to 4 thousand rpm and now is having trouble starting and staying started


Sounds like your carb is dirty in all areas. Remove the carb and completely disassemble it. Blow carb cleaner and compressed air through every opening and make sure each opening comes out somewhere when you spray through. Clean the float needle seat with a q-tip and carb cleaner. Spray through each of the jets and be sure they are absolutley clear. Make sure you get the emulsion tube out and clean. it is what the main jet screws into and will have holes down the sides.Screw the mixture screw in and count the turns. remove it and any spring or o-ring and spray through it also and make sure the spray goes all the way through. Replace the mixture screw and set it in the same adjustment as you started. Reassemble and install the carb. If the carb was adjusted properly in the beginning, you should put it back on and your bike run much better.


*Help me out. Rate me!

Apr 27, 2010 | Yamaha XS 500 Motorcycles

1 Answer

I've inherited a 1985 Virago 1000 with 16000 miles on the speedo. It will only run rough with the choke on. I replaced the battery with a new one when I got the bike. Since then I cleaned the carbs,...


the carburetors will need thoroughly cleaned and related rubber vacuum and fuel hoses will need replaced. Use fuel rated hose on fuel lines.
Gasoline goes bad with time and in as little as 3-4 weeks. This effect is known as varnishing. Jets and passageways within carburetors become obstructed when varnishing occurs.
Liquid gasoline changes chemically into a gel like substance. Advanced stages of varnishing results with the solid gel changing into a crystal powder substance. Interior carb surfaces are etched in the process and may require carb replacement.
The choke and pilot circuits with most motorcycle carburetors share passageways. When pilot jets become obstructed, the choke circuit compensates and allows engine to start and idle with choke, but stalls without choke.

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FOR MORE HELP:---
Carb Cleaning 101
The elements of internal combustion engines are; correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, adequate cylinder compression. Motorcycle and ATV carburetors have many passageways and openings to check and clean. Subtle to radical effects on engine performance occur when jets and passageways become obstructed. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be checked and adjusted. The following procedures are a helpful guideline.
Carb Cleaning 101:----Warning: Remove all rubber (Neoprene) parts before applying chemicals to carburetor parts. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o’rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners may damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb brackets.
Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace individual fuel and air circuit passageways from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight paths through castings to form passageways. A change of direction or angle means drilling additional connecting passageways. Access holes left by the drilling process are plugged with brass or bronze beads. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes, pipe cleaners, and compressed air. Many household items can be useful cleaning tools. Remove any discoloration and debris from carbs. Look for carb spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways. Chase immediately with compressed air.
Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following; jet-cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube, which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber, exposed base.
Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve’s seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.
Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).
Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and emulsion tower (main jet screws into). Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…
Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.
Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.
Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).
Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Apr 20, 2010 | Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic Motorcycles

2 Answers

I've got fuel coming out of the Air Filter housing from a tube running back to the carb


Carb is flooding over. The needle and seat in the float bowl needs to be servived. and that cylinders sparkplug needs serviced and the oil may need to be changed. Sometimes the fuel line to the offending carb can be pinched off and the motor run until tha t carb runs out of fuel turning the fuel back on with that cylinder still runnung the rush of fuel may unfoul the needle and seat and it'll start working good again.

Nov 29, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha Xv 250 Virago S

1 Answer

Clogged carburator, how do I get it out to clean?


BEFORE YOU START
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

Nov 24, 2009 | 2007 Yamaha V Star Classic

2 Answers

Setting float level on HSC40 Hitachi carburetors on 1986 Virago


I have a 1982 Virago 750 that I just did a carb rebuild to. To set the float levels I built a jig from wood that simulates the position of the carbs when mounted on the bike. This jig clamps into my bench vise. I created a fuel supply using a small funnel and a piece of fuel hose mounted above the level of the carbs.. After that all you need is a short length of transparent fuel hose to attach to the drain on the bottom of the float bowl to provide the visual indication of the float setting. Now you are ready to set up the float levels on your bench. This is way easier than trying to set them up in the bike.

Make sure that the jig is set up so that the carbs sit as level as possible across the pair and that they sit as close to the natural position in the bike in the lengthwise position when the bike is sitting level.

The process of setting up these floats can be very tedious, be patient. It may require that the float bowls be removed multiple times to get it correct (I replaced the philips head machine screws with allen head screws to make this easier). Printed instructions for the procedure look for a certain fuel level setting plus or minus 1mm. This kind of tolerance can be quite difficult to get when the only adjustment you have to work with is to bend the metal tang on the float assembly.


Apr 17, 2009 | 1986 Yamaha FJ 1100

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