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Depressurize the hydraulic system. Jack the front and put on jack stands (both left and right side). Remove wheels. Slacken and unscrew the ball joint nut partially. Release ball joint from knuckle using a proper separation tool. Once dislodged, remove ball joint nut and pull out strut/knuckle away from lower arm. You may need to push down the arm with a lever. Remove dust cover from the ball joint. The ball joint can be removed by unscrewing it using a tool that locks into the notches on the sides of the ball joint. Install new one by screwing in the ball joint back into the knuckle.Tighten well.
most are the same--remove the wheel, brake caliber, brake rotor, unscrew the center nut, there can be three bolts from the back side to be removed, and unscrew the center nut from the axle, the hub will usually slip off but may require the use of a puller or a careful hammer blow the haynes repair manuel will help look under front axle replacement
•Using the jack under the frame, and stabilize the motorcycle.
Special Tools - Jack: 57001–1238
•Loosen the left and right axle clamp bolts •Unscrew the axle nut . •Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel
off the ground. •Remove the axle, and pull out the wheel. Take off the
collars and caps from each side of the front hub.
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc
facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not
touch the ground.
•Insert a wood wedge between the disc brake pads this
prevents them from being moved out of their proper position,
should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Front Wheel Installation •Apply grease to the seals. •Fit the projection on the cap to the groove on the collar. •Install the caps , collars on the left (longer collar)
and right (shorter collar ) side of the hub. •Insert the axle from right side. •Unbolt the right and left axle clamp bolts temporally. •Tighten the axle nuts •Tighten the left axle clamp bolts.
Torque - Front Axle: 78 N·m (8.0 kgf·m, 58 ft·lb)
Left Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 14.5
○Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure
even tightening torque.
Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.
Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.
behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.
Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.
From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.
Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.
I just replaced the wheels on the red Fisher Price Kawasaki Brute Force. First use a screw driver to pop off the grey middle nut cover. Then pull of the locking nut with black cap that is under the grey cover you just removed.
Once that is removed the wheel comes right off. There are 4 phillips screws holding the hubs together. Unscrew those and the hubs separate into to pieces (one on each side of the wheel).
Simply place the hubs into the replacement wheels and screw back together. Slide the new wheel on (make sure the washer is still on the rear side of axel).
My replacement wheels actually came with the black replacement locking nuts taped to them. Hammer the replacement locking back on the alex, pop the grey hub cover back on and you are done.
If you are missing the locking nuts, take one of the originals you removed with you to the hardware store and you should have no problem getting them. - MTRAGE
Hi ...... You need to support the bike level (front paddock stand) and undo one side pinch bolt then using the hex adapter for that side unscrew anticlockwise ..................... I cant remember whether it's a 15mm or 17mm. The front spindle is threaded both sides. Support wheel & pull spindle out. Assembly is reverse but you have to make sure speedo drive is engaged correctly prior to tightening up.
those are sealed units and are intergrated with the wheel rotor if the bearings are bad they must be replaced and those are dealer only items. labor for each side is about 1 hour for remove and install per side. unfortunately there are no aftermarket parts available just yet. hope this helps