Question about 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

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Looking for oil pump timing marks 79 xlh in relation to crank, cams, case ? have oil pressure in oil tank and upper end noise after running a few min.lines are not restricted engine has been rebuilt by previous owner never ran

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Pump is not reliant on the timing marks its just a pump so id say it hasnt been primed when assembled!
thats why top end is noisy {no oil getting through]
check the bleed holes for restrictions if ok then the pump needs servicing
Cheers rob.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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Engine knock when first starting


Hi there:
Firs t suggest to check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Nov 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Engine knock when first starting


Hi there:
Firs t suggest to check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Nov 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2003 Honda Goldwing 74K mles. Whirling noise sounds like in front of engine. It is not the high pitch whirling noise that is inherent in newer Goldwings. This noise just started 100 mile ago. The nois


right found the question
sounds to me the that either the crank nut or the cam nut is rubbing on the head cover casing
pop the cam cover casing off and have a look
for any scraping marks
if that is the problem it needs to go in the shop for a look at
it could be the mains or the spacer washers on the crank
or something simple link the clutch
i know its low milage but these need very regular full service and oil change every 10 to 15k

Sep 15, 2012 | 2003 Honda GL 1800 Gold Wing

1 Answer

2003 Honda Goldwing 74K mles. Whirling noise sounds like in front of engine. It is not the high pitch whirling noise that is inherent in newer Goldwings. This noise just started 100 mile ago. The nois


right found the question
sounds to me the that either the crank nut or the cam nut is rubbing on the head cover casing
pop the cam cover casing off and have a look
for any scraping marks
if that is the problem it needs to go in the shop for a look at
it could be the mains or the spacer washers on the crank
or something simple link the clutch
i know its low milage but these need very regular full service and oil change every 10 to 15k

Sep 15, 2012 | 2003 Honda GL 1800 Gold Wing

1 Answer

I want to know the oil level at a 1981 xlh harley 1000 when cold


Your dipstick should have two marks on it. The top mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Check the oil level with the bike on the side stand. My advice is to never add oil to the oil tank when the engine is cold. As long as you can see oil on the stick, ride the bike until it reaches operating temp and then add oil only when it's below the lower mark when hot. I never "top the oil off". The reason you never add oil to the tank when cold is that if the bike is not ridden for a period of time, the oil will seep by the check valve in the oil pump. It does this because the oil tank is located higher on the frame than the engine. The oil collects in the engine cases. If you "top the oil tank off", when the engine is started and it pumps the oil from the case into the tank, the tank is now overfilled. It will blow the filler cap out and oil will go everywhere making a big mess.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 11, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

I want to know the oil level at a 1981 xlh harley 1000 when cold


Your dipstick should have two marks on it. The top mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Check the oil level with the bike on the side stand. My advice is to never add oil to the oil tank when the engine is cold. As long as you can see oil on the stick, ride the bike until it reaches operating temp and then add oil only when it's below the lower mark when hot. I never "top the oil off". The reason you never add oil to the tank when cold is that if the bike is not ridden for a period of time, the oil will seep by the check valve in the oil pump. It does this because the oil tank is located higher on the frame than the engine. The oil collects in the engine cases. If you "top the oil tank off", when the engine is started and it pumps the oil from the case into the tank, the tank is now overfilled. It will blow the filler cap out and oil will go everywhere making a big mess.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 11, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

I have a Harley Davison XLH 1000 Sportster . It seems to put oil in the tank but not back in the motor . When you turn the motor over oil comes out the oil fill.


You may just have it overfilled. If you checked your oil before you started the engine up and found it to be low and added oil, this is more than likely the case. Since the oil tank is higher than the engine, the Sportster (and Softail models) have a tendency to "oil soak". What is happening is as the bike sits the oil seeps past the check valve in the oil pump and starts to settle in the engine. When you check the oil tank, it's low. So, you add a quart. When you start the engine or turn it with the starter, the oil pump pumps the oil out of the engine and into the tank which is already full. The oil has to go somewhere so out the filler it comes.

Now, to determine if your oil pump is indeed pumping into the engine, screw the oil pressure sending unit out and remove the spark plugs. Spin the engine with the starter and watch to see if the oil is being pumped out. If so, the oil pump is fine. We already know that the scavenger pump is pumping oil back into the tank. So, if you think the engine is overfilled, drain about half of the oil out of the tank and start the engine. Watch the oil level in the tank with a flashlight. Do not allow it to run dry. Allow the engine to run until it is warm and then check the oil. There are two marks on the dipstick. The top mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Check the oil with the bike on the side stand. Do not overfill.

Mar 23, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

I have a Harley Davison XLH 1000 Sportster . It seems to put oil in the tank but not back in the motor . When you turn the motor over oil comes out the oil fill.


You may just have it overfilled. If you checked your oil before you started the engine up and found it to be low and added oil, this is more than likely the case. Since the oil tank is higher than the engine, the Sportster (and Softail models) have a tendency to "oil soak". What is happening is as the bike sits the oil seeps past the check valve in the oil pump and starts to settle in the engine. When you check the oil tank, it's low. So, you add a quart. When you start the engine or turn it with the starter, the oil pump pumps the oil out of the engine and into the tank which is already full. The oil has to go somewhere so out the filler it comes.

Now, to determine if your oil pump is indeed pumping into the engine, screw the oil pressure sending unit out and remove the spark plugs. Spin the engine with the starter and watch to see if the oil is being pumped out. If so, the oil pump is fine. We already know that the scavenger pump is pumping oil back into the tank. So, if you think the engine is overfilled, drain about half of the oil out of the tank and start the engine. Watch the oil level in the tank with a flashlight. Do not allow it to run dry. Allow the engine to run until it is warm and then check the oil. There are two marks on the dipstick. The top mark is "FULL HOT" and the lower mark is "FULL COLD". Check the oil with the bike on the side stand. Do not overfill.

Mar 23, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

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