Question about 1999 Triumph Daytona 955i

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Inside the clutch sprocket there are mounted 6 small springs inside 6 bigger springs. These springs absorb the excess force from the engine to the clutch as well as from the gearbox to the clutch.Some of them are broken. Where can i find a repair kit of them? please help

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  • 188 Answers

Triumph would certainly have them but you could do some research on google?

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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2 Answers

Engine knocking at low revs gets less when clutch lever is pulled


Sounds like the clutch basket is worn you want to replace it really.

Mar 15, 2015 | 1998 Yamaha XJR 400

Tip

Drive Hub Assembly Replacement for Stairmaster 4000PT Stepper


Stairmaster Stepper Drive Hub Assembly Replacement
  1. Remove the side covers.
  2. Remove the step chain retainers.
  3. Supposrt the pedal arm. Unhook the pedal arm return spring from the spring hanger. Lift the step chain up and off the clutch sprocket and lower the pedal arm to the floor. Repeat on the other side.
  4. Remove the snap ring from the left end of the drive shaft. WARNING: To reduce the risk of eye injury, wear eye protection when removing snap rings.
  5. Remove the drive chain.
  6. Remove the sprocket and other small parts from the left side of the hub assembly.
  7. Slide the drive shaft to the right, out of the hub assembly. If you remove the right-hand clutch sprocket form the drive shaft, do not confuse it with the left-hand clutch sprocket.
  8. Loosen and remove the two remaining bolts and nuts that hold the hub assembly to the frame. Remove the hub assembly.
  9. Inspect the drive shaft, bushings, thrust washers, and clutch sprockets for excessive wear or pitting. Replace any worn components.
  10. To reinstall the hub assembly, carefull reverse the disassembly procedures. Be sure that the right- and left-hand clutch sprockets are positioned correctly; the wide shoulder of the sprocket should be facing away from the hub on both sides.
  11. Chain Tension. The drive shaft is mounted in an eccentric hub. Rotate the hub so the marked hole is in the 12 o'clock posistion, lining up four holes in th hub with the four holes in the frame. Use this hub position when reinstalling the drive chain since the distance between the drive and the transmission shafts is at a minimum. The hub is in the proper position when the drive chain has a total of 1" to 1-1/2" of play, up and down, at the slackest point in the chain. If it is necessary to increase the tension or tighten the chain, rotate the hub counter clockwise until the chain has proper tension.
  12. Reinstall the covers.

How to Repalce the Drive Hub Assembly on Stairmaster 4000PT

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster 4000PT Stepper

1 Answer

Torque setting for centre nut for clutch housing


Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry. I have been going
over some of the older help requests that have been archieved and
trying to provide solutions for those that didn't get answered. Hope
this information helps.

KTM Torque settings


  1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
  2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
  7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
  10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
  12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber bottom bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
  18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
  23. Other collar nuts on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
  25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
  26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

Oct 29, 2011 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

KTM EXC Head Torque Specifications


Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings


  1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
  2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
  7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
  10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
  12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
  18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
  23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
  25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
  26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Aug 26, 2011 | 2000 KTM EXC 300

1 Answer

What is the axle torque settings on the front an rear axle bolts on a 2007 ktm 250 xc?


Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
I have compiled a list of all the useful KTM torque setting that apply to your bike.

KTM Torque settings


  1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
  2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
  7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
  10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
  12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
  18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
  23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
  25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
  26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs
Let us know if we can provide further assistance.
Best regards,
TF

Jul 05, 2011 | KTM 250 XC Motorcycles

1 Answer

What are the torque settings?


Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings


  1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
  2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
  7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
  10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
  12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
  18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
  23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
  25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
  26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Mar 11, 2011 | KTM 530 EXC-R Motorcycles

1 Answer

Head torque specs.on 1991 KTM540 2-stroke


Thanks for contacting FixYa. I was reviewing some of the older un-answered questions trying to ensure your issue has been resolved.

KTM Torque settings


  1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
  2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
  7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
  10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
  12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
  18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
  23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
  25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
  26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs

TF

Sep 03, 2010 | KTM MXC 520 Racing Motorcycles

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How to replace starter rope and spring on the 14" poulan. What's the trick for getting the spring wound and installed back in the housing?


There should be a mount inside the casing and another one on the starter rope socket. Wind all but a foot or so of your pull rope onto the sprocket then mount the spring on the mount in the casing. Don't worry about winding the spring yet. After that attack the spring to the sprocket. There should be a notch cut in the edge of the sprocket. Lay the rope in the notch and then place the spocket back into the case. With the rope in the notch you can then start winding up the spring taking the twists out of the rope as you do it. Depending on the length of your rope you'll probably need 5 or 6 turns of the sprocket. Once you get it wound then position the notch where the pull rope exits the housing. Grap the rope handle and pull the excess rope until it is all in the sprocket or outside the case and no longer in the notch. There might be some retainers for the sprocket. I"m not that familiar with Poulan. Secure these if there are some and put the housing back onto the saw and you should be good to go.

Nov 21, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

Starting


The sprocket behind the flywheel has a roller clutch. Very simple but difficult to describe, maybe you could google it. Its a common clutch arrangement used on many starters. They can often fill up with **** from the oil and the small rollers and springs inside don't move freely. If this is the problem then it only needs cleaning out and I usually give the springs a little stretch. ie. another millimeter is plenty. Sometimes a spring may be broken. The only way to find out whats really wrong is to take it apart  but you will need the correct puller to remove the flywheel. Its basically impossible to do this job without the right tools. 

Dec 16, 2008 | 1991 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R

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