Question about 2007 Hyosung GT250R

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2007 Hyosung GT250R front cylinder no spark

Rear cylinder working well. Swapped ignition coil and spark plug with the rear. Front still not working, rear working. Cables look good... Any possibility other than CDI? Fixed: Replaced CDI.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Hyosung Master
  • 41,664 Answers

Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
No Spark in front Cylinder
2 Wheels View topic Hyosung Running on ONE Cylinder Only Now Sorted
Hyosung Aquila 250 Service Manual
https://www.alpha-sports.com/Parts/H_GT250R.htm
HYOSUNG GT 125 Manual

Posted on Aug 11, 2017

Testimonial: "You didn't even read my post... nice copy pasta"

  • 3 more comments 
  • Gregg Mahin
    Gregg Mahin Aug 11, 2017

    I read it and gave you a list of things to check

  • Anonymous Aug 11, 2017

    1. Fouled spark plugs... you didn't read my post

  • Gregg Mahin
    Gregg Mahin Aug 11, 2017

    Hi, Poppet you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
    1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
    2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
    3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
    4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple teeth.
    5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
    For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

  • Anonymous Aug 11, 2017

    You didn't add the links for my valuable "FREE" downloads. Why is "FREE" in quotations by the way? I feel a lot like you're lying to me

  • Gregg Mahin
    Gregg Mahin Aug 11, 2017

    I do not get paid for helping you, I have given you a lot of information if you do not like my suggestions then take your bike to a dealership or go pound sand I really don't care

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is this the one that kick in at a higher rpm to burn more gasses while running at speed? is it not running as it should, are you having an issue other than it doesnt do what you thought it should.No spark in rear cylinder or just on the one plug out of the two? If all is checking out as you said its got to spark.trade the coil thats on one with that other one see if the trouble is the same or moved with the coil to its new location.coil may work but not be good enough to run.

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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module or CDI box.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.motorcycles.tech/BxBKbi9w2k4
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