Installed a new battery, now I have a short somewhere as I get spark when I attempt to connect negative cable. when I try to start I lights come on, but after I hit the switch everything fails. Then nothing happens on secand attempt unless I diconnect the battery and reconnect. may have touched frame with tool when installing new battery, but, it ran for a while after I installed then battery went dead,
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acid overflow is caused by overheating, so there is a short someplace,disconnect the battery and neutralize the leaked acid with baking soda dissolved in water and remove the battery. (the short can even be internal, in the battery) Replace the battery with a new one,connecting a voltmeter between the negative terminal and its cable. (An ampmeter of t least 10 amps capacity would be better.) With the key off, the meter should read zero. a reading indicates a short to ground somewhere. Trace all wires, look carefully where wires go through holes or past edges for bare or burned wires. When the meter reads zero, you can turn on the ignition and gingerly touch the negative cable to the negative terminal and watch for a spark, it should be small, assuming the ignition is battery operated, not by magneto. Turn on the lights should cause a slightly larger spark. A big spark and dimming of the lights means there is still a big short you have to find. Otherwise, turn off the key , hook up the negative cable, firmly but easy to disconnect, and try the system.
Hi, Stephen if you have a CKP sensor it needs compression to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM, make sure both spark plugs are in heads and use a grounded third plug to check for spark or hold spark plug cable close to spark plug in the head. If still not getting spark the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Battery voltage below 8.7 volts, loose or broken battery cables, check the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm.
Good luck and have a nice day.
See the diagram below for a visual of your starter installed.
The alternator wire goes on top of the battery cable just like it sounds like you did. If something sparked you might have a loose connection from the starter install. The sparks mean there was a real bad direct short somewhere. You will have to look and find it. Remove the negative battery cable until your reinspect your job.
If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
Get your battery charged up to full charge and put it back in the bike but leave the negative battery cable loose. You'll need a digital volt ohm meter that will measure at least ten amps of current. Pull all the fuses out of the bike and leave the switch OFF. Set the meter's function selector switch to AMPS. Plug the meter leads into the meter with the red wire in the AMPS hole and the black lead into the COMMON hole. Connect one lead to each clip where a fuse goes in. This wires the meter in series with the circuit, replacing the fuse. Hold the negative battery cable onto the negative battery post. The meter will tell you how much current is flowing through the circuit. If the reading is a negative number, reverse the meter leads where you have them connected to the fuse holder. This will tell you which circuit has the current draw in it. From there, you'll have to refer to a wiring diagram to determine exactly what is on that circuit. The reason you leave the negative cable loose is if you short something, you can disconnect the battery quickly if you have to.
It could be most anything including the new battery. Odds are that it's not the battery but never rule that out. I've bought a lot of bad batteries before.
But, let's do it this way. Disconnect all the wires off both terminals of the battery and reconnect only the large cable that goes to your starter on the positive side. Now, find the wire that runs from your voltage regulator back towards your battery. On some bikes this wire connects directly to the battery and on others it connects to the starter terminal where the battery cable connects. Disconnect this wire and reconnect any wires that were on the connector with it. What you're doing is isolating the voltage regulator. Now, touch the negative battery post with the negative cable. Watch for a spark. If you see a spark, something else is draining your battery. Now there are certain things that run all the time on your bike such as the ECM needs power all the time, the clock, and maybe a few other things. But if there's a rather large spark, it's probably something else. Also, if it's a large spark with the regulator disconnected, it's probably not the regulator.
Now, remove all the fuses from the fuse box. Remember what fuse goes where. Do the spark test again and notice the size of the spark. Start adding one fuse at the time and doing the test. When you put a fuse in that dramatically increases the size of the spark, your current load is more than likely on that circuit. You'll need a schematic to find out what is on that circuit.
If you don't like the "spark test" and want a more professional way of doing it, you'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) that will measure at least ten amps. Wire the meter in series with the negative post of the battery and negative battery cable. If the meter reads a negative number, reverse the lead connections.
Check the battery voltage. Without the charger on it, it should have about 12.5 volts. With the charger on it, it should read somewhere around 14.0 - 14.5 volts. When you try to start the bike, if the battery voltage drops below 9 volts, the battery is bad.
I know you said that the battery is new but some people call a battery that is two years old new. The solftail is notoriously rough on batteries. The reason is that the battery is "inside" the horseshoe oil tank. The hot oil in the tank exposes the battery to higher temperature levels that on other models. Also, motorcycle batteries are subjected to more vibration that car batteries. So, "new" has different meaning on a motorcycle battery. Still, I've seen brand new batteries go bad. Take the battery out and take it to an automotive parts house. They'll usually load test the battery free of charge for you.
If it turns out that you battery checks good, make sure that all your electical connections to it are clean. Follow the positive cable down to the starter and make sure this connection is good as well.
The flickering lights tells me that you either have an internal short in the battery or a very bad electical connection to the battery somewhere. Good Luck.
with the aid of a test light disconnect the negative terminal to the battery and connect one end of the test light to the battery and the other end to the terminal cable if its lit there is a draw begin by pulling 1 fuse at a time until the light goes out and that's the draw most likely a glove-box switch not making full contact or a trunk switch even the dome light adjust the switch as necessary either try a shim or possibly bend the fixture forwards or remove the bulb all together if you desire
When replacing battery in yamaha GP1200 when attach negative cable the unit seems as wants to turn over the engine while the unit is off and no key in place.. also notice in seconds that the battery terminal on negative side started smoking..actually melt the new battery terminal on negative side..yes, postive was connected to positive. Any ideas what why this would take place??
Trace the cables back to the alternator and solenoid. There's a great chance that's where the corrosion is. Assuming there's no other damage like the cables have been chewed on (a dead pest under the car is a good indication of this lol) clearing the corrosion on the other side of the cables should get you going again. Best of luck!