I just put new pads on the rear caliper. in the process i knocked off a metal clip that appears to hold the pad opposite piston side( atleast thats the side it looks to go on. But after looking an trying to put the little piece back on, it still wont just fit anywhere. im working on a 07 zx10r
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Hi Anonymous, it can be done with out removing the rear wheel or any brake lines, or any bleeding of brakes, all you need is a c-clamp and regular hand tools. First place a drain pan underneath the rear master cylinder, it's likely to overflow during the piston push back procedure, and remove the top and accordion rubber gasket and compress gasket back to it's flatest position then put it back on top of the master cylinder leaving the metal cover off. Next split the caliper halves by removing the 3 bolts and pay close attention to small o-ring so it doesn't get lost and location and orientation of the anti rattle clips. Leave the old brake pads in.Take your c-clamp and position it so that the screw part is dead center of the old pad and slowly tighten the clamp until the old pads have pushed the pistons back into the caliper half and the pad bottoms out. Repeat the process with the other caliper half. Install the new brake pads, replace o-ring and anti rattle clips and bolt the halves back toghther, torque bolts to 20 ft lbs. Check fluid level and replace top cover on master cylinder. Pump the brake by hand until you get a nice strong pedal and your good to go. Good luck
Hello Dale, this is an easy job on your bike. Use a flat head screw driver and remove the brake pad cover...it will pop off. Remove the hairpin type clips off of the ends of the brake pad pins.... Use pliers & pull the brake pad pins out from the front of the rear brake caliper....Clean the rear brake caliper's piston with brake cleaner. Use a rag and wipe it clean...Reinsert the old brake pads into the caliper. Place a pry bar between the brake pads, then push the inner piston into the caliper body, this will allow room to install new pads.... Remove the old brake pads...Coat the brake pad pins and the new brake pads metal back plates with high-temperature grease.
Slip the new brake pads into the rear brake caliper, then push the brake pad pins halfway into the caliper. Slip the spring clips into place between the brake pads and the brake pad pins. Push the brake pad pins completely through the rear brake caliper. Push the hairpin clips back into the brake pad pin tips. Snap the brake pad cover onto the top of the rear brake caliper....
Pump the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels firm, indicating that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotor...No bleeding will be needed because the system was never opened - That's all there is to it...i hope this information is helpful & good luck with your bike.
I believe you mean the clips that keep the brake pads from rattling.
The smaller one of the two, fits into the caliper where the front of the pads slide into the caliper. It goes between the pads and caliper, and has a slot to where the disc fits. It kinda fits into a recessed rectangle hole. (Opposite the brake pad pin.)
The longer clip has two small tabs on it's back, near the center, that clips towards the top center of the caliper, and it puts pressure downward on the pads. One end rests on the top of the pads, as the other ends up resting on the "pin" that holds the pads in place.
Look close, and you should see marks where they were, as they can only go on one correct way.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads and the 4 anti-squeal shims
CAUTION Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or replacement of the brake caliper.
Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
Install or connect the following:
Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
2 brake pads
Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the bracket and set aside. Do not crimp the hose as this can damage the hose on the inside.
Notice how the pads and the metal anti-rattle clips are positioned in the caliper bracket. Remove the old pads and clips and replace with the new parts. Make sure the rear pad is positioned with the fiber material towards the rotor. I've seen many put in metal to metal by good mechanics because it's on the backside of the rotor.
Now, you must compress the piston back into it's bore in the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to do this. Use a rag or something to prevent scratching the paint on your caliper. With the piston compressed completely back into it's bore, carefully replace the caliper into the caliper bracket. Do not disturb the pads or clips.
Install the two bolts with a bit of blue Loctite #242 medium hold on the threads and torque to 20 foot pounds. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder.
Slowly depress the rear brake pedal and release until you have a full firm pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure they work correctly before riding the bike.
hi,if you are only replacing the pads then there is no need to take the wheel off,simply undo the two bolts holding the caliper to the carrier,remove the caliper from the disc,push the brake pads back (with a screwdriver or something similar),flip the caliper over,remove the plastic cover(if fitted),remove the"r"clips that hold the brake pins in(some models have external bolts and cut plates or tabs but they all do the same job of holding the brake pins in),once you have the clips out,the pins will slide out and the pads will be able to be removed,replace the pads and reassemble opposite to removal,easy job should take about 20 mins from start to finish.dont forget ,once you have the caliper back on to pump the brake lever a few times untill the pads seat against the disc and you have full brake pressure again..hope this helps...cheers
YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEELS.REMOVE PARKING BRAKE CABLE CLIP FROM CALIPER DISCONNECT PARKING BRAKE CABLE.HOLD THE GUIDE PIN WITH A BACK UP WRENCH AND REMOVE UPPER MOUNTING BOLT FROM THE BRAKE CALIPER.SWING THE CALIPER DOWNWARD AND REMOVE THE BRAKE PADS.TO INSTALL NEW PADS.YOU HAVE TO RETRACT PISTON INTO THE HOUSING BY ROTATING THE PISTON CLOCKWISE.PUT EVERYTHING BACK VISA VERSA.
Whenever servicing brakes, extreme care must be taken to ensure that the job is done correctly. Severe injury or death can result from an improperly done brake job.
To replace the rear pads, remove the two bolts that hold the caliper in the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off and move it out of the way. Do not crimp the rear brake line. Take notice of how the pads, the stainless steel pad clips and the anti-rattle spring is positioned in the caliper bracket. Remover the old pads and brake parts. Install the new pads making sure you put the friction side of the brake pad against the rotor. Don't laugh I've seen many brake pads put in metal to metal, especially on the backside pad. Make sure the metal end clips are positioned correctly.
Now, you've got to press the piston back into the caliper so that the caliper will go down over the new pads. I usually use a large pair of slip joint pliers but a C-clamp works well. Make sure you protect the paint on your caliper. Remove the master cylinder top and watch the fluid level as you press the piston back into the caliper. Don't allow the master cylinder to overflow. Remove fluid if you have to. Once you get the piston fully pressed back into the caliper, carefully slide it into position while not knocking the pads out of their position.
Install the two bolts and carefully work the rear brake pedal until the pedal feels normal. You may have to depress the pedal a few times before it feels right. Top off the fluid level using the correct type of brake fluid. Never mix two different types of brake fluid such as DOT4 and DOT5 (US). This will cause problems in the future as they do not mix.
Before riding the bike, check for proper brake operation. When you do test ride the bike, test the brakes before you reach a speed of over ten miles per hour. Remember, it's you that is going to ride the bike first. Make sure you do this job correctly.
I don't like giving "how to" information dealing with brakes as I feel that brakes are so important that if you're not sure of what you're doing, you need to take it to a qualified mechanic. Do this job at your own risk. Brakes are not difficult to repair but they must be done correctly or personal injury or death can be the result.
Usually, there are two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Remove these two bolts and the caliper should lift right out. Now, pay particular attention to the way the metal clips on each side of the brake pads are installed. Also, pay attention to how the spring clip is positioned. These are basically anti-rattle devices but must be installed correctly.
Replace the pads and the metal clips. Make sure put the brake pads in with the friction surface towards the brake disc. Don't laugh, I've seen people put the metal side to the brake rotor, especially on the backside. Now, you must press the piston back into the caliper. Use a C-clamp or large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you use something to protect the paint on your caliper. You may want to remove the top of the rear brake master cylinder if you don't open the bleeder valve. If you open the bleeder valve to press the piston back into the caliper, make sure you check your brake fluid level before riding the bike.
When reinstalling the brake caliper, be careful not to knock the brake pads out of the caliper bracket. Press the brake pedal while keeping an eye on your brake fluid level in the master cylinder. You may have to depress the pedal a number of times before you get a good firm pedal. Make sure you have done the job correctly before you ride the bike. When you do ride the bike, test the brakes within the first 100 feet you ride at a very low speed. Depressing the brake pedal and the bike doesn't slow is a BAD feeling.
The brake pads are held in place by the caliper. The caliper is secured with two 15 mm bolts, and two 13 mm on the opposite side. Once you undo the caliper you should also find an apex clip on top op the pads.
Once you have done that , slide the caliper out and remove the pads.
To refit you may need to compress the caliper. You can use a clamp, but on VW I compress the caliper using a robust wooden stick as a lever inside the U shaped part.
Before putting the new brakes I use an hand file tool to mill the corners of the pad, this will increase aderence to the rotor disk.
Remember that the car will have reduced braking power when you install new pads.