Do you selling rectifiers BP 25-06L

The rectifier on a 2001 Suzuki Intruder 800 is typically located near the battery, under the seat. It is usually attached to a bracket or secured with screws to the motorcycle's frame.
To locate the rectifier, you may need to remove the seat and possibly the side panels. Once you have access to the battery, follow the wires that are connected to it. The rectifier should be mounted nearby and have wires connected to it as well.
If you're having trouble locating the rectifier or need further assistance, I would recommend referring to the motorcycle's owner's manual or consulting with a qualified motorcycle mechanic.

You are discussing a bridge rectifier, the + connector is directly opposite the negative connector, the remaining two connection points are the AC side of the rectifier + AC

AC -

rectifiers all perform the same job. They convert ac voltage to dc and regulate how much gets let out to protect the battery and other modern electronics. Most all stators are supposed to put out 30-32 volts ac. The rectifier converts that to dc which equals about 15 volts. Your main concern is being able to supply the motors draw and charge the battery without cooking everything. The smaller the draw ( i.e. headlights, taillights, radio, heated grips, piaa's) the smaller the rectifier needed. So check the specs and resistance on the rectifier you intend to use.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, I'll assume you mean one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Working-Lucas-Rectifier-Triumph-Norton-BSA-500-650-750-Bonneville-Lightning-93r-/310849859745?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48601870a1&vxp=mtr

If so, let's go to this pic:

http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q637/danimal991/rectifier3.jpg

(click pic to enlarge a little)

IF you have the terminal marked #1 (not all do), this is an additional ground, to supplement the ground from the mounting bolt (#5).
Numbers 2 & 4 are where the alternator leads plug in. Doesn't matter which, as the voltage from the alternator to the rectifier is AC current.
Number 3 (center terminal) is the "hot" lead (converted to DC voltage), and splits off in two leads, one going to the system, the other going to the Zener Diode, which acts as the voltage regulator.

Now, a few things to be aware of:

When removing or installing the rectifier, ALWAYS use a wrench to hold the "bolt head" (under terminal #1 in the illustration) to keep it from turning while you loosen/tighten the nut.
If you don't do this the "plates" will turn, breaking their internal connection(s).
In that case, you might as well take it off and throw it in the trash, and go buy another one!
Make sure the mounting is contacting clean, bare metal (no paint, rust, etc).
I usually use a piece of Scotch Brite and shine up the mounting area, put a dab of dielectric grease (available at auto parts store) and slip an external tooth lock washer over the bolt threads before inserting it into the hole and tightening with the nut:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGJnod9WkGE/UXA77e-kxSI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/drj3iZ3eCB8/s1600/External+Tooth+Lock+Washer.jpg

The teeth of the lockwasher dig into the mounting surfaces, giving a better electrical connection.

Sounds like the rectifier is shorted. When it shorted out, the energy expended itself by burning through the wire. When you repaired the wire, the shorted rectifier held the excitation voltage down to zero, keeping the unit from building back up. Check the rectifier - you should find that it is shorted. There is a guy on ebay selling replacement kits - p/n 95672. You may have to flash the field after you replace the rectifier - about half the time, a rectifier or capacitor failure will kill the residual magnetism in the rotor.

I have the same welder which has also just had the rectifier go bad but I haven't taken it apart yet. Only removed the cover and discovered the trouble is with the rectifier. If the washers/spacers you are talking about are the ones which are part of the rectifier assembly, I'd be happy to lay mine out in the order in which they go as I disassemble it and take a digital photo of them for you to look at.
I also have a question for you. I've learned that Clarke has filed for chapter 11 bankrupcy and are no longer selling welders or parts. I've contacted the local repair people in our area and have not found any one willing to help me locate the parts I need. Would you be willing to provide me with the name and contact information of the people who serviced your welder? My email address is [email protected] if you wish to respond to my offer or request.
Either way, thanks for you time and best of luck with your welder.

Dan Reiff

I have the mm675 18" flip-over handle model. But it seems to have similar workings. One day it just stopped running. I unscrewed the motor cover and noticed that a red wire had burned through where it plugged into an AC terminal on the bridge rectifier atop the motor. I re-attached and it ran OK for awhile, but soon stopped again. This time the terminal on the bridge rectifier to which the wire was attached had broken near its base. I replaced it with a new rectifier (#72256-03) from B&D, The mower ran for awhile, but soon stopped again. Yep, the same terminal on the new rectifier had broken in the same place. By this time, I began to suspect that the real culprit might be a dirty commutator (the copper surface at the top of the motor that the brushes rub against) -- it was black. So polished it to reveal the underlying bright copper with 600 grit sand paper. By then, I'd also determined that Radio Shack sells the same rectifier (RS #276-1185) for a just few dollars (B&D charges about $12.). So far, the mower's running fine. Hopefully, it's fixed. Case closed?