Engine quits when handlebar turned to full left

There is a single central connection to the handlebars This is called the "gooseneck". (Ther handlebars slide through the goosenect and then the gooseneck is tightened to hold the handlebars. The connector to tighten is in the front (so you do not get "injured" if you have a collison). Loosten the connector (it may be allen, or perhaps hex nut.). Raise or adjust the handlebars, then tighten. Make sure it is really tight (do not strip the threads). The handlebar has serrations to lock on to the gooseneck so the handlebar - gooseneck bolt will have to be loosened quite a bit to allow the serrations to "jump" to the next serration.

Check your choke cable isnt stuck. Mainly when the choke cable is stuck somewhere inside, when you turn the handle it cuts off.

What type of motorcycle is it ? You will need to at least tell us what make and model of motorcycle it is. Most general brand motorcycles have either a full bar that acts as both handlebars. There are a few brands that have a "center cap" that when the bolts are tightened the cap squeezes down on each individual handle bar. If yours is like that then i would start with seeing if directly between your handlebars and right above your forks if there is a plate with bolts through it. If there is then check to make sure that those bolts are tight.

Instructions

1. Street Motorcycles
   • 1 Mount your Ninja or Eliminator motorcycle and lift it off of the kickstand. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position.
     
   • 2 Reach down to the base of the fuel tank with your left hand and turn the fuel valve, or petcock, to the "ON" position. This will place the fuel valve lever in the 6 o'clock position.
     
   • 3 Place the engine kill switch on the right handlebar into the "RUN" position.
     
   • 4 Pull in the clutch lever and depress the starter button on the right handlebar to start the motor.
     

rate my post for perfect solution
Instructions

1. • 1 Open the choke by pulling the choke lever on the left handlebar control toward you. Set the bike on its kickstand, put it in "Neutral" and start it up. Allow the Road Star to warm up for about 10 minutes before continuing with the adjustment procedure.
     
   • 2 Locate the idle adjustment screw on left side of the bike just below the rider's seat. Twist the adjuster screw clockwise one full turn. This will ensure the bike stays alive so you can adjust it to the proper setting.
     
   • 3 Close the choke lever and listen to the engine carefully. Twist the idle adjustment screw slowly counterclockwise. You should hear the engine speed start to slow.
     
   • 4 Twist the idle screw counterclockwise until you hear the engine start to sputter and die. When this happens, stop and turn the screw one half turn clockwise. Your bike should now be idling at the correct speed.
     

Been a long time since I've done one of those. Let me brush some cobwebs aside and see if I remember how I did it. The magneto fired Sportster engine was equipped with a mechanical left handlebar ignition advance mechanism. You retarded the timing, got the engine fired, and then advanced the timing using the left handlebar grip that was similar to the throttle. When installing the magneto, make sure you install it with it in it's retarded position which is with the body of the magneto at it's maximum clockwise rotation when viewed from the top of the magneto.

The manneto drive shaft will turn as you drop the unit into the cases. You must turn the drive shaft to a position so that when you drop the magneto into the cam gear case it rotates to a point to where it is just about to open the points. I remove the timing plug of the engine and bring the front cylinder up on Top Dead Center on the compression stroke with the mark in the middle of the hole. Then I'd connect an ohm meter, a "buzz box" or simply use a piece of celophane wrap off a cigarette pack placed between the closed points to give me an indication of exactly when the points began to open. I'd rotate the mag until the points just barely opened with the Front Cylinder TDC mark in the hole. This is setting your initial timing at Top Dead Center on the front cylinder. Once the engine is started, you can set the timing using a timing light to set it the max advance timing to the front cylinder advanced timing mark. With the engine running, advance the timing using the handlebar grip. To adjust the front cylinder timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder spark plug wire. Shine the light in the hole, loosen the clamp that holds the mag and adjust the magneto position until the front cylinder advanced timing mark is in the hole. Tighten the clamp. When you kill the engine, you turn the handlebar grip back to ****** the magneto. Usually, this results in an initial retarde timing of about 5-7° BTDC.

I hope this helps.

Steve

Depending on how old your bike is there is an allen head or a nut at the top of your handlebar that when adjusted properly tightens the stem of the handle bar. You just have to tighten it down. Most use metric allen wrenches or sockets.

The cable is probably fine but it is not properly routed through the frame . When you turn the handlebar the cable is being pulled out of the top of the carburetor causing the motorcycle to rev up. You may have to remove the tank and experiment with cable routing to keep the handlebars from pulling the carburetor slide up from the idle position.

The friction is headset pre load, and you need to find a balance. The haynes bike book has a full set up for excatly this. You can find it on Amazon

Iv'e seen this before and the solution was to clean the throttle cables. Dissassemble at the throttle grip and spray
WD-40 down the cables. Cable adjustment should leave 1/16" play (worst case) when handlebars are turned full right or left. Also clean where twist grip rides on handlebar.

Goodluck
Techjoel