One of the tumbler ribs inside my washer was loose for about a month and now it has come off. It looks like it is plastic and some of the places that hook to the washer are broke. Can I Fix this?

About This Video

This video covers replacing the plastic step tread on the Stairmaster SM916 and 7000PT Stepmill. (The procedure shown for the plastic step tread replacement can also be used for the Stepmill and Gauntlet.) Remember that if replacing one step tread, all step treads should be replaced. A general rule if one tread is worn it is likely all other treads are worn in the same manner.

Tools Needed: Rivet Fastener Removal Tool, Safety Goggles, Snap Ring Pliers (Gauntlet, Stepmill and 7000PT may require a 1/2 inch Nut Driver or 1/2 inch Wrench instead of Snap Ring Pliers), Clean Rag, Flat Head Screwdriver, 1/2 inch or 12mm Deep Socket, Rubber Mallet
Begin by removing the side cover for access to the step shafts. Then position the steps as if you were going to step up on the unit.
Start by removing the snap ring or nut from the step shaft. Inspect the snap ring (if equipped) and replace with new if over sprung. Lift slightly on the step to remove the bearing and outside washer. Keep note the orientation of parts for reassembly. Push against the step shaft so as to push it out through the other side. There is another washer on the inside of the chain link. Continue pulling the step shaft out.
Once you have the step shaft half way out, you can get your hand inside to hold the step up. Then go ahead and pull the step shaft the rest of the way out. You can rest the bottom portion of the step on your knee and gently fold the top portion under.
You will need to remove your knee so that the bottom portion of the step can be flipped so that the plastic tread is against the floor.
Using the flat head screwdriver, remove and discard the 10 pushnuts affixing the plastic tread to the step. Remove the old plastic tread.
Put the new plastic tread in place so that the 10 plastic ribs are facing up through the metal step.
Next, using the 1/2 inches or 12mm deep well socket and rubber mallet install the new pushnuts. Place a new wave washer and pushnut over each plastic rib. Place the socket over new wave washer and pushnut. Using the rubber mallet, tap against the socket to pop the new pushnut into place. Repeat for all 10 pushnuts.
After replacing the plastic tread, it is time to reinstall the step shaft.
Reinstall the step shaft from the side it was removed. Get the step shaft started into the chain. Be sure to reinstall your washer between the chain link and the step assembly. Lift up on the step and push the step shaft into the first part of the hinge (about 2 inches). Align the bottom portion of the step with the top portion and continue pushing the step shaft through. You want to be sure that you have reinstalled the washer between the step and chain link on the other side. Now that the step shaft is in place, you should reinstall the outer washer, the step shaft bearing, and lastly the nut or snap ring.
Roll the steps down to the next step and repeat. Continue with the process until all 8 step treads have been replaced.
Plastic Tread Replacement Video for Stairmaster Stepmills SM916 7000PT

look inside the drum with a flashlight and look for broken or loose tumbler rib, can be fixed with epoxy, sand smooth surfaces first, let cure and use appliance paint to paint it

You remove the three hex drive bolts on the bottom. This will allow the bottom plate to drop off. Then clean out the glue in the little groove in the middle of what looks like a thick washer. There is a tiny circlip on the shaft which you remove very carefully. The thick washer, a spring washer and flat washer are then removed along with two metal concave parts. Note carefully the order in which the parts are around the shaft. You have to carefully pry off the plastic part right below the bearings. That part is pressed onto the shaft which is ribbed to hold it in place. Once you get the bearings back in place you press the plastic bottom back on. I had to use a vice grip to hold the shaft and needle nose pliers placed against the plastic like you holding the shaft then tapped the pliers to push the plastic onto the shaft holding the shaft up with the vice grips. Put the rest of the parts back together and put the circlip back in place. Be careful when placing the circlip. Mine wasn't all the way on and popped off. Now I can't find it. Once you get the circlip back on use some shoe goo or similar material to lock the circlip into the groove on the thick washer. Let it dry and reinstall the the bottom with the hex drive bolts.

These ribs are made of heavy plastic and are screwed on from the outer portion of the drum. Remove the top and the front of the dryer to gain access to this ribs bolts and tighten

There is a good possibilty that the key tumbler mechanism "rod" has become disconnected to the door control mechanism. These rod connections are plastic and will break. Also if someone is trying to unlock the door while someone is trying to open the door either from the inside or outside; this could cause this link to break. If someone tried to "jimmy" the lock using a slim-jim they could have caused a disconnection or breakage.
The last of my theories is the locking tumbler could have become loose because of a tumbler spring lock clip that may be broke or malfunctioning. This keeps the tumbler in place while turning the key. If the key continues to turn more than it should or is very loose this could be the problem. However this is rare.
You will have to take the inner door panel off to gain access. Check visually to see if this rod from the key tumbler to the door mechanism is loose on top where it is connected to the key tumbler OR on the bottom of the rod where the rod connects with the door control mechanism.
The "L" part of the rod pushes into the hole of the plastic clip and normally there is an rotating arm clip lock that flips over onto the rod and locks onto the rod, holding the rod in place. If the clip has broken it should be replaced (available to auto part stores).
Let me know if this helped or in you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me on FixYa.com!

Pull the dryer away from the wall, there is no bottom on the dryer, so the screws should be on the floor.
You can then pop the lid up from the front and fold it back. When you do, you will see the drum. Roll the drum around until you see the holes and reattach the tumblers.
You can also access the drum from below. Tip the dryer on its back and you can see the drum from the bottom.
Good luck.
Regards,

Check the Vibration damper rods to be sure that...
1. They are there and mount is solid.
2. If they are broken in 1/2.
3. The plastic knuckle mounts are not missing/broken.
4. There is oil in the shock absorber/spring section of the rods.

Also - there are suspension springs on the bottom of the tub that could be broken and/or missing.

Replace/repair as necessary.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Hello, This is somewhat involved and time consuming, but if you are handy, it can be done. First unplug the dryer then start with the two screws in the hinges of the door and then the door lifts out. Two screws on the opposite side holding plastic spacers. Once these four screws are out the front panel tilts right out. The front panel will come off then 4 more holding on the front tumbler support and air duct. Removed wires from light and dryness sensor and clips holding wires to panels. Pull out the tumbler and removed belt. If your dryer gets a lot of use, then you might want to keep going and replace some more wear items while you have it apart. Remove the two drum support rollers and shafts by removing a nut on the back side of each shaft. Remove snap ring off each old shaft, install new rollers and fiber washers onto new shafts, reinstall snap ring and replaced on brackets with the old nut. Remove tension spring off idler pulley bracket and one screw holding on the bracket. Install new pulley and fiber washers on new bracket and reinstall bracket and spring. Placed new belt on tumbler and reinstalled tumbler. Used drill and bit to drill out pop rivits holding on the two front glides that are attached on the front tumbler support and installed new glides and pop riveted in. Reinstall front support and air duct checking that felt tumbler seal front and rear are in place. Placed new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Reinstall front panel.

the loose vane cant affect leaking first open the drawer look on the back Left side of the drawer push down on the tab and remove the drawer take it apart and clean it well top and bottom clean the inside of the drawer hsg and look for cracks on the top panel remove the two screws at the back and remove the panel reassemble the drawer assembly put detergent in it start the washer take a flashlight and look for leaks

Be certain that nothing got under the rubber skirt, pull it back and look /feel under it .
inside the tub are the large wiper arms solid and not come loose.
open the top access panel (3 screws in top rear )
and open the bottom access Panel (3 screws in bottom front)
Dissconnect power .
Look at the springs and arms that attach to the tub are they secure.
is the large stone concreate slabs secure.
move all these items and push at them all secure?
you can run it while open but the bottom has a switch on front right that has to be closed.
look watch listen.