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Exploded view of turn signal switch pin connector on a 2000 kz1000

I have an aftermartket turn signal switch on handlebars i wanna replace the old one but the wires are different any suggestion on putting that switch to the old harness

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Hi, John for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki KZ1100 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki KZ1000R Owner Manual
KZ1000 Police Specs eHow
Kawasaki Kz1000

Posted on May 03, 2017

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Looking at my Olds Intrigue 1998 Service Manual (Volume 1 of 3), I believe Oldsmobile calls what you describe as either the "Headlamp Switch Turn Signal Lever" (part #1 on the exploded view), or the "Headlamp and Turn Signal Switch" (part #2 on the exploded diagram on page 8-53 of the first volume of the Service Manual). I had to order a "turn signal switch" to get my horn to work from the steering wheel (it worked from the remote), and I'm thinking that your part is also part of the "turn signal switch."

It's on top of the steering column (under the shroud-like plastic), right behind the steering wheel from where you sit in the car. It takes a mechanic about 1.5 hours to replace it and it's tough for you to do if you don't own the right tools and know how to get to it. (I never got it figured out.)

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Dyna fatbob turn signal not working


Hi Anonymous, always check bulbs first, you could have a faulty turn signal module or a bad turn signal button/switch, remove it from the switch housing and check for continuity, check your wiring and connections from the turn signal switch to the turn signal module with a testlite. Make sure all wires are not worn or pinched and connector pins are not corroded, broken, or loose. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below:

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Here's the schematic for an 88. Your 91 used the same turn signal/hazard switch.

Note if you purchase another turn signal/hazard switch there are two types.
One is for a tilt wheel and the other is for a non tilt steering wheel.

wol_error.gifClick this bar to view the full image.pg058.jpg

Next picture shows the connector pin out of the turn signal/hazard switch and
how to test the switch.

wol_error.gifClick this bar to view the full image.pg125.jpg

Sep 20, 2012 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

I want to change the handlebars on my 09 road king. How does the throttle sensor come out?


TWIST GRIP SENSOR 4.10


REMOVAL

Remove the left side saddlebag, remove the left side cover, remove the main fuse, (Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing the 5/32 inch (4.0 mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch. Use the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap if the cardboard insert is not available.), place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket, remove the upper and the lower switch housing screws, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing, remove the lower clamp screw with its flat washer, separate the upper and lower switch housings and remove the throttle grip from the end of the handlebar (a light tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from their receptacle in the twist grip sensor seal cap), if present, pull the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit from the holes in the handlebar. FOR FLHR/C: remove the headlamp and the handlebar clamp shroud, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud on the fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and disconnect it, FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U remove the outer fairing, remove the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black), from its T-stud at the top of the right fairing support brace (inboard side) and disconnect it, FOR FLTR remove the outer fairing and bezel and disconnect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector [204], 6-place Molex (black). (Note that the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if the twist grip sensor is pulled too strongly and a damaged latch will prevent a positive pin and socket housing engagement and also since the connector is not serviceable, any damage requires replacement of the twist grip sensor jumper harness. THEN gently pull the twist grip sensor out of handlebar only as far as necessary to access the green twist grip sensor connector. FOR BEST RESULTS straighten out the conduit on the Molex connector end of the jumper harness and feed it through the slot at the front of the handlebar while pulling it and if the harness sticks inside handlebar while pulling on the twist grip sensor, pull the Molex connector end to retract the harness somewhat and then try again gently working the harness back and forth in this manner until the twist grip sensor connector is accessible. (Note again, that if the external latch on the pin housing of the twist grip sensor connector will break if pried and that a damaged latch will prevent positive pin and socket housings engagement and that since the connector is not serviceable, any damage will require twist grip sensor jumper harness replacement). THEN gently insert a small flat blade screwdriver between the pin and socket housings and when the bottom edge of the latch is engaged separate the housings. (Do not pivot or rotate the screwdriver after insertion or damage to the pin housing will occur), remove the twist grip sensor.


INSTALLATION

(Take note that each twist grip sensor contains the terminals for installation of a heated throttle grip available through P&A and that while the seal cap protects the terminals from dirt and moisture it also serves as a retention device for installation of the throttle grip.)


Verify that seal cap is installed at end of the twist grip sensor. If the seal cap is not present, proceed by seeing if the seal cap is engaged onto the index pins inside the throttle grip and if so use a stiff piece of mechanics wire to lasso seal cap and pull it free of the index pins. If it is missing or damaged get a new one. THEN check the condition of the O-ring on the seal cap and because the O-ring is not sold separately a new seal cap will be required if the O-ring needs to be replaced. Install the seal cap engaging the legs in the slots at the end of the twist grip sensor. For best results try installing one leg first and depressing the second leg slightly with a small flat blade screwdriver push down on the seal cap until it is fully installed. THEN connect the green twist grip sensor connector and gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the twist grip sensor into the handlebar. THEN fit the index tabs on the twist grip sensor into the slots in the handlebar noting that one index tab and slot are smaller than the others to prevent improper assembly. THEN slide the throttle grip over the end of the handlebar rotate the grip to verify that the internal splines are engaged with the splines on the twist grip sensor. (Take note now that it is not necessary to hold the throttle grip onto the handlebar because the index pins in the grip engage the receptacle in the seal cap of the twist grip sensor preventing the grip from sliding off). THEN position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle grip so the ribs at the end of the throttle grip engage the slot in the lower switch housing. THEN position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and the lower switch housing, start the upper and lower switch housing screws but do not tighten them at this point, verify that the wire harness conduit runs in the depression at bottom of handlebar, put the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket, align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and start the lower screw with its flat washer, position it for rider comfort but do not pull the switch housings so far inboard as to cause the throttle grip to bind or drag on the handlebar and rotate the throttle grip to verify that it freely returns to the idle position. THEN starting with the top screw tighten the handlebar clamp screws to 72-80 in-lbs (8-9 Nm) always tightening the lower switch housing screw first, so that any gap between the upper and lower housings is at the front of the switch assembly. THEN tighten the lower and upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4-5 Nm), remove the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket and FOR FLHR/C connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install it on its T-stud on fork stem nut lock plate (right side) and install the handlebar clamp shroud and headlamp. FOR FLHX, FLHT/C/U draw the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and conduit forward to the front of the upper fork bracket, and then route it under the right radio support bracket to the area behind the fairing support brace, connect the connector and install it on its T-stud at top of fairing support brace (inboard side) and install the outer fairing. FOR FLTR connect the twist grip sensor jumper harness connector and install the outer fairing and bezel. THEN, if present, install the two cable clips on the right side handlebar switch conduit into the holes in the handlebar install the main fuse, install the left side cover and install the left side saddlebag. (NOTE that whenever a new twist grip sensor (or ECM) is installed, you must put the engine run/stop switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition/light keyswitch to IGNITION and then back to OFF four times (without starting engine), allowing at least three seconds to elapse between ignition cycles. This is done because the ECM uses the first four ignition cycles to establish the optimum idle speed and so there may be initial performance problems such as high idle or hesitation when the throttle is opened if the procedure is not followed.) THEN turn the ignition/light key switch to IGNITION and apply the brake lever to test the correct operation of the brake lamp.

TWIST GRIP SENSOR JUMPER HARNESS

Removal

Remove the twist grip sensor. Get a length of strong flexible mechanics wire of sufficient strength to pull the conduit and connector through the handlebar without breaking AND of sufficient length that the free end will not be lost in the handlebar when pulled. THEN securely attach the mechanics wire to the jumper harness inboard of the twist grip sensor connector pin housing and for best results, install the mechanics wire onto the conduit to keep it from bunching up inside of the handlebar when it is pulled. THEN gently pull the Molex connector end of the jumper harness to draw the conduit, the connector and the mechanics wire out through the slot at the front of the handlebar and if the harness sticks at all inside of the handlebar, pull back on the twist grip sensor connector end to retract the harness slightly and then try again to gently work the harness back and forth in this manner until it is free. THEN remove the mechanics wire from the jumper harness.


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Does it have a trailer hitch and wiring? If so, check to make sure connector is not shorted out and double check your fuses and/or replace fuse. It may look good but I've seen some that were burned out of inspection view. You might also want to trace wiring back to brake lights, just in case snow or build up pull connectors apart.

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1 Answer

Turn signals dont work 2000 sportster


Hi Johnnymeshel, always check fuses and bulbs first, you could have a faulty turn signal module or a bad turn signal button/switch, remove it from the switch housing and check for continuity, check your wiring and connections from the turn signal switch to the turn signal module with a testlite. Make sure all wires are not worn or pinched and connector pins are not corroded, broken, or loose. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below:
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

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1 Answer

Rear brake light & signals not working .yellow indecater on handlebars not coming on .not a fuse


Hi Aryals, before diagnosing any turn signal issue make sure the bulb is good and the light fuse has continuity with a test light. If no turn signals work the cause could be a faulty turn signal module or the connector going to it, look for corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets. Contact spray cleaner is great for removing corrosion. If your speedometer does not function properly it will have to be fixed first because your turn signal module gets the data from the speedometer for normal turn signal function. If your front turn signals don't work use a test light to check for power and ground at the bulb socket, then start backtracking the wiring through every wire connector to the turn signal switch/button and check for continuity, go all the way back to the fuse if necessary to find the cause of the malfunction. If your rear turn signals don't work check your rear fender wiring harness connector first for corroded, broken, loose pins/sockets, power, and a good ground, (the harness connector is usually located under the seat on the front of the rear fender) then keep tracing the wiring look for obvious harness damage caused by the rear tire. If you still can't find the malfunction backtrack from the rear fender wiring harness connector. If one side does not work you could have a faulty turn signal switch or module check for continuity. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. diagnosing and repairing turn signal problems
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1 Answer

Cruise control indicater lights are on but will not engage


Check the cruise control module connector, see if it looks good and there is power to the module over one of the white wires in the 10 pin connector.
There are two white wires going to the module which is located at pins "G" and "J". There should be no voltage at pin "G" until the brake switch is applied. This switch is also used to operate the brake lights. The two wire colors on this switch are white and orange. At pin "J", this signal goes to the PCM to tell it that the cruise control module is engaged. Here is the info on the cruise control connector:

Pin A: gray - cruise control on switch signal: 12VDC with cruise switch on
Pin B: dark blue - cruise control set/coast switch signal: 12VDC with switch pressed
Pin C: gray/black - cruise control resume/accel switch signal: 12VDC with switch pressed
Pin D: brown - cruise control release signal: 12VDC with brake pedal not pressed: 0V when pressed
Pin E: black/white - ground
Pin F: brown - ignition 3 voltage: 12VDC with ignition on
Pin G: white - stop lamp switch signal: 0V with brake pedal not pressed: 12VDC when pressed
Pin H: dark green - cruise control inhibit signal: 0V if PCM detects an inhibit condition
Pin J: white - cruise control engaged signal: voltage (unsure of value, either 12VDC or 5VDC) when signal engaged
Pin K: dark green - vehicle speed signal: 1 to 5 volts depending on speed

This view of connector is facing it after it is separated.

Trying to post the connector view, the lines may not quite line up, but at least it should show you the pin positions.

| F  G H J K |

| E D C B A | 

May 09, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

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