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When i hit the electric start button, it not engaging the starter. i put new starter in and solenoid and battery

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  • Motorcycles Master
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Hi, Allen I would really love to help you but due to the magnitude of yesterday's solar flare the batteries in my crystal ball are dead and my mental telepathy headset circuitry was melted. I need the year, make, and model of your motorcycle please click on the word "COMMENT" below and provide this information in the box that will open and then click on the green comment box in the bottom right-hand corner after it posts I will receive an "ALERT" icon that will allow me to respond to your information.
Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Posted on Apr 24, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: car will not start

Recheck the battery, the starter doesn't care if your battery gives 12 volts, it needs CCA (Cold Cranking Amps),  Autozone will test this for free where I live, most likely where you live too.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Husqvarna LT2042

the soneloid switch sends power to starter . check power on red wire on starter when key on full .if no power must be soneloid switch problem even though it clicks

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

bozcro
  • 867 Answers

SOURCE: Troubleshooting starting system on 2000 yamaha waverunner

check the starter relay switch

Posted on Jul 09, 2009

  • 8404 Answers

SOURCE: solenoid just clicks and starter doesn't engage

Does your starter have a good ground now after the paint job??? If you jump from the battery to the starter side of the solenoid, do you get any results?

If you have good power and the starter is known good, your solenoid could be faulty.

Thanks for your question at FixYa.com

Posted on Jan 09, 2010

Testimonial: "All logical statements and factual comments.I figured out the solenoid and cable to the head is a cable operated compression release. "

VulcanBrat
  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: when I push the starter button the solenoid

Just because it's new, doesn't mean it works.
This is why cars get recalled.

The iron-clan test of a non-working solenoid is to cross the relay terminals. If you do and it starts.. it's bad.

Take it back. you purchased a dud. It happens.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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1994 shadow vt1100c starter stays engaged


Hi, Jim before you can diagnose any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" your battery must be fully charged to 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. Your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage, faulty starter relay, or button. Your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and may be repaired without removing the starter in most cases and depending on the model of your Harley may require removing the rear exhaust pipe if it's in the way. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidentally touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap, secured with 3 screws 1989 and later or 2 screws 1988 and earlier, with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spot weld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the green wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the green wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the green starter button wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper load test should be performed.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1994 starter stays engaged Honda Accord Forum Honda Accord Enthusiast...
starter stays engaged Harley Davidson Forums
Honda shadow vt1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
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Oct 06, 2017 | 1994 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing try to start and solenoid clicks


Hi, Anonymous you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid can not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
GL1100 starter solenoid only clicks when push the start button
What to do When Your Motorcycle Won Start
Honda GoldWing GL1100 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda GL1100 1982 Owner Manual

Jun 02, 2017 | 1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing

2 Answers

Starter stays engaged


starter bendix is stuck need a new starter or rebuild starter with new bendix

Jan 16, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

2004 arctic cat 500 4x4 starter turns doesnt engage starts with pull cord


The starter has to throw it's gear out using centrifugal force. The speed of the starter has to be enough to overcome the spring inside. It is either a little seized and needs to be rebuilt and greased up, or the battery isn't powered up enough to get the right speed to engage properly. In that case clean the battery posts and clamps well, then charge or replace the battery. To know if the battery is bad wait till it is charged... if it still doesn't engage try again with booster cables from your car etc. and see if it suddenly works fine.

Nov 08, 2013 | Arctic Cat 2004 500 4x4 Automatic TRV

1 Answer

Starter keeps on running


Hi, Calvin your starter motor stays engaged because the solenoid positive plunger contact plate/disc has spot welded itself to the negative contact shoes usually caused by low battery voltage and/or a faulty starter relay, your starter motor has two main systems the motor itself and the starter solenoid which transfers high amperage to the motor enabling it to turn over your engine, your issue only involves the starter solenoid and can be repaired in most cases. The solenoid is the part that has a large copper stud protruding from it that the positive battery cable connects to. Start by disconnecting the battery negative cable and wrapping the cable terminal with any kind of tape so it will not accidently touch metal and make all electrical circuits hot again, remove the starter solenoid cap and with a screwdriver break away the contact plate from the shoes and clean/dress all electrical arc residue. In order to diagnose the starter circuit, you must start with a fully charged battery, 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary. The battery cables and terminals must be clean and tight. The "NEGATIVE" cable is famous for corroding and or breaking inside the harness, check the terminals at both ends. Check your starter relay with a test light for continuity, it could be faulty due to corrosion and sticking in a closed configuration, another claim to fame. Finally, there is the starter solenoid, low battery voltage or faulty battery connections will cause extremely high amperage at the plate and contact shoes and rob the hold in coils of much-needed voltage. In extreme cases, the solenoid plunger plate will literally spotweld itself to the contact shoes, keeping the circuit closed and thus permanent engagement. Another scenario is unacceptable voltage drop to the starter solenoid from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the starter button, and finally to the solenoid. Remove the starter relay wire from the starter solenoid and hook up the positive lead of your voltmeter to the relay wire connector and ground the negative lead. Turn on the ignition switch and depress starter button, the voltage reading should be no more than 1/2 volt less than the battery voltage. If it is more than 1/2 volt you need to backtrack that part of the circuit with your voltmeter until you find the voltage robbing offender. Next, remove the solenoid plunger, dress the plate and the contact shoes of arching residue and make sure the contact shoes are tight and secure. If you have done all of the above, replace the starter relay wire, hook up your voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage drop when you start the engine, anything below 9 volts could indicate a faulty battery and a proper "LOAD" test should be performed.
Good luck and have a wonderful day.

Mar 20, 2017 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Electric starter will not switch off, unsure why


Sounds like you had to disconnect the battery to stop the starter from spinning.
I've had that happen quite a few times and heres what i found and did to fix the problems.

1. I had an old american bike in the shop with a low battery. I didn't know the battery was
low when i hit the start button. The starter solenoid stayed engaged, and the starter kept
turning over the motor, I pulled the battery terminal off to stop the power to starter.

I check battery and it was low, i put full charge on trickle charge and then let it sit
a 1/2 hour before i tested it with the load tester.
It failed big time, dropped all the way to bottom of the scale under a load test

Installed a new battery and fixed the problem. The solenoid, start button, kill switch, key switch all works, it was just a low battery.

2. I had a customer call me because he ran out of gas, when he got gas he turned the bike over for a long time trying to fill the carburetors with gas,
Never hold the start button down for long periods of time. He did and the wires got so hot that the positive wire from the battery to the solenoid melted and stayed engaged.

It was an easy fix, replace the melted solenoid, and only hold the start button in 5 second intervals, allowing it to cool in between starts.
Once the bowls were full again and the bike starts, then it only takes about a second for the bike to start so you normally dont hold the start button for that long.

Hope this helps
Big Al

Jul 25, 2011 | Aprilia Ulysses XB12 XT Motorcycles

1 Answer

My 97 fatboy battery started dying in 2010. Put bike away for season bought new battery put it in now when I hit start button starter relay clicks wont start an orange and white wire under the seat was...


Well, I don't really know how to tell you to troubleshoot your starter when you don't have a meter. When you press the starter button, there is a starter relay that is usually mounted on the rear fender extension on the Fat Boy that engages and provides voltage to the starter solenoid. This voltage goes to the solenoid via the single small wire that plugs onto the starter just above the d-sided plate on the end of the starter. This wire goes hot which energizes the coil in the solenoid. The magnetism pulls the plunger into the starter. The plunger has a large round copper "washer" that make contact to two copper terminals inside the solenoid that connects the battery to the starter motor.

To test the starter, make SURE your transmission is in neutral. Take the 5-sided plate off the end of the starter. There are three 3mm bolts that hold the plate on. Behind the plate, you'll find the plunger and long spring. Using a large screwdriver or something, push the plunger into the solenoid as far as you can. The starter should engage and turn the engine. If not, look at the copper contacts inside the solenoid. If they look burned and are not smooth across the face, you may need to replace them. Rebuild kits are available both through Harley and aftermarket suppliers.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 30, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

When i try o put the battery in - with the key out, stand down, etc - it starts the engine


When you say Start the engine...do you mean the starter engages and starts cranking engine?
If thats the case most bikes use a starter relay (aka starter solenoid) that has a cable directly from the battery to it. The starter button with the key on, energizes the relay, so the solenoid sends power to crank the starter.
If the solenoid is stuck in the closed (electrically) position power will flow to starter whenever the battery cables are connected. So the solenoid needs to be replaced....you could try tapping it to free the contacts but its probably damaged.

If the bike is cranking and starting and running without the key in, it would suggest multiple wiring issues or mods have been made.

Mar 18, 2011 | BMW K 1100 LT Motorcycles

2 Answers

It started out just clicking when u pushed the starter button an now it dont do nothing ive got a new battery in it can you tell me whats wrong its a 660 grizzly 2004


get some wire that's equal in size or larger gauge than the battery cable (a jump start cable works great) and connect from one side of the solenoid to the other momentarily. The starter should engage. If it doesn't, you have either a dead battery, bad battery cable, or the starter relay is bad. You can also try a jumper from from the battery positive terminal to the starter side of the solenoid. If it engages then the the battery cable from the battery to the solenoid is bad. To test the relay, put 12 volts dc on the trigger side and the relay contacts should close. You'll hear them close with a click.

Dec 04, 2010 | Yamaha SZR 660 Motorcycles

1 Answer

1997 Ford E150 4.2L Start troubles


The transmission range sensor , park neutral safety switch . Is fuse #23 60 amp in the engine bay fuse block good ?

Mar 10, 2017 | 1984 Ford Econoline

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