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Hi Jmontano951, could be a worn chain/belt and or bad sprockets, loose, corroded, or broken battery connections, faulty main circuit breaker, fuel delivery system, and or fuel venting system. Good luck and have a nice day.
the timing chain has an automatic tensioner at the rear of the engine cylinders, if the chain is loose the tensioner is either defective or the chain is stretched to the point the tensioner can no longer take up the normal slack created by wear.
It has a timing chain but that is not the problem. The fuel system is probably the problem. Water / trash in the gas, weak fuel pump, plugged injectors, gas tank vent partially plugged, dirty air filter? The spark plugs are also a likely target. I would start there since it is a cheap fix and you can do it yourself.
No. It goes around your crankshaft. It's a major teardown. I redid a Honda Hurricane not to long a go and it has three chains in it. A timing chain, an oil pump chain, and one that runs off of the starter. All three were replaced, as the starter one was really loose. The engine has to come completely apart.
This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.
Here is procedure for 1996:
Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.
If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.
19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
Remove the timing chain/belt.
Installation NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.
CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt. NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.
NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).
Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.
While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt
Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).
clean the whole chain.
Make sure to wipe off as much kerosene as you can before you spray the wax on it. You don't need to spray on too much...just spin the chain around once while you spray and then let it set up for 15 minutes or so.
How often? If it looks dirty, clean it. Every 500 to 1K miles depending on your riding conditions. Job should take you 20 minutes or so from start to finish including the set up time..