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Sep 16, 2016 - Uploaded by The_Ging
This video provides a step-by-step walkthrough to teach you how to replace the touch screen digitizer panel on ...
Dragon Touch M10X Screen Replacement: If the screen on your Dragon Touch M10X is damaged and needs replacing this guide will allow step by step instructions on how to replace the screen. ... Step 1 Screen. Remove the two screws from the top of the tablet as shown in the figure using a J0 philips head bit. Edit.
if it is a petrol engine then the governor arm will hold the carby open when stopped
as the engine starts the governor moves the arm to close the carby off to idle. the speed setting is by a spring attached to the throttle level and a point on the governor lever
Some handlebar stems can be simply rotated towards you (Allen wrench to loosen and tighten), while others need to be replaced with a shorter stem.
Before doing anything, however, I recommend you first get a good opinion from your local bike shop on whether your seat is in the right position (height, as well as fore/aft). Then, they can help determine if the handlebars need to be closer and if it's just a simple adjustment.
Note: If stem actually needs to replaced with a shorter version, be careful about spending a significant % of the bike's worth.
Press the reset button to reset the system, then unplug the
bike from the power outlet. Wait about five minutes, then plug in the
bike and reset the system again. This usually solves most computer glitches or error readings.
Check all basic connections first if the system won't turn
on, or the display is partially functioning or not functioning at all.
Ensure that the plug is securely plugged into a proper working outlet.
Check to ensure that the cable is securely plugged into the front of the
system, and that the cable doesn't appear damaged. If the cable is
damaged, replace it immediately.
Inspect the system display visually, looking closely for
cracks. Also check to see if humidity has caused moisture to enter the
screen. If so, you may need to replace the display.
Check all connection points and latches. Latches should be
lined up with all connectors and be securely in position. Push on the
connection and listen for the snap when the latch locks into place. The
computer or circuit board may need replacement if all connections are
fine and the display isn't operating properly.
Check all connections for the HR (Heart Rate) sensors. Check
to ensure that both HR connections from the handlebars and the cable
box are secure. Apply a conductive electrode creme to the handlebar
sensor to see it produces a better connection. You may have to replace
the handlebars or cable if no connection is being produced.
Check to ensure the RPM sensor is properly aligned with the
magnet on the flywheel and that the connection is secure on the RPM data
cable. Reposition the sensor if it's not aligned properly; replace the
cable if the connections are broken or the cable is visibly damaged.
Move the bike
away from large metallic objects, microwaves or other electronic
equipment that may interfere with the bike's computer. Ensure that the
bike is positioned on a flat, level area--otherwise, the bike will rock
and feel unstable. Ensure that all knobs, pins and levers are installed
appropriately, including pedals, crank and seat. Cranks should be
connected at 180-degrees from one another. Seat pins should be seated
completely and securely in the your designated pin hole for seat
To change the clutch cable, find the clutch cable adjuster and slide the cover up or down so you can get to the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster barrel inwards to get as much slack in the cable as possible. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever. Drain the oil out of the transmission. Remove the bolts that hold the chrome endcap, clutch release mechanism cover, from the transmission. Look inside the transmission end cover and disconnect the clutch cable from the release mechanism. Note how the "hook" is positioned holding the cable to the release mechanism. Unscrew the clutch cable end from the end cover. While you are in this area, replace the clutch throw out bearing and retainer clip. Take note of the routing of the cable from the handlebar to the transmission. Replace the cable along with a new O-ring on the transmission end of the cable and install a new gasket. Torque the bolts to 100 inch pounds. Adjust the cable adjuster until you have about an 1/8" freeplay at the handlebar grip.
Loosen the front brake master cylinder clamping bolts and slide the entire assembly down towards the right handlebar switch housing as close as it will go. If the brake light does not go off then, the switch in the right handlebar switch housing is broken and must be replace.
To replace the switch, you must take the two bolts that hold the housing halves together out. Lift the upper half and loosen the throttle cable and idle cable. Remove the throttle sleeve and allow the lower half of switch housing to come away from the handlebar. The front brake light switch is the small switch in front of the housing. Unsolder the wires, replace the switch with a new one, and resolder the original wires to the new switch. Reassemble the throttle sleeve and switch housing, adjust the throttle cable and idle cable and check for proper operation.
It's probably one of the cables, probably the idle cable, has a broken strand in the braided cable. Loosen the two bolts that hold the front brake master cylinder onto the handlebars and slide it towards the center of the handlebar and temporarily tighten it there.
Now take the two bolts that hold the right handlebar switch housing together. Carefully lift the top of the of the switch housing up. There's some wiring in there and it won't come completely off. You can check your cables from here but you may have to loosen the cable adjusters a bit. Carefully roll the throttle to the open position and the idle cable end will roll up into view. Look for broken strands of cable. If you find any, replace the cable.
Replace the cable by loosening the adjuster to get as much slack as you can. Disconnect the cable from the throttle sleeve. Remove the ferrell from the end of the cable and work the cable out of the lower switch housing. Sometimes this can be difficult because the cable has a spring clip that holds it in. Just spray the inside of the hole on the bottom were the cable goes in and keep wiggling it. Take the air cleaner cover, air filter element, and air filter backing plate off and you''ll see where the cables connect on that end. The idle cable is the one with the spring on that end and it will be loose. Replace the cable and reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Be careful not to pinch any wires when reassembling the switch halves. Make sure you get the throttle cables installed and adjusted correctly. Adjust each cable to where they have just a small amount of slack in EACH cable. When you twist the throttle and release it, it should snap closed. Failure to insure proper throttle operation could cause lose of control of the vehicle causing severe injury or death to the rider.
If you're talking about the old style throttle cable that is internal of the handlebar, it's pretty straight forward. Remove the throttle grip, the rollers and pin for the plunger. Pull the plunger out bringing the old throttle cable with it or at least out far enough to loosen the small set screws that lock the cable in. Now, run the new cable through the outer housing. put the end of new cable into the plunger and tighten the set screws. Replace plunger into the handlebar, replace pin and rollers, replace throttle grip. Now, set the throttle to full closed posititon. Move carb throttle lever to full closed position. With throttle cable through clamp tighten screw securing cable. Check for proper operation of throttle mechanism.