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How does one knows the bike crunk shaft is not in good order?

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  • Motorcycles Master
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Will assume motor cycle
have to inspect it
look for case hardening damage or any bearings or surface breakdown
piston gudgeon damaged
out of balance if its a two piece shaft

how does one knows the bike crunk shaft is not in  - index-av0lfw4mhtvzatxb1mcuht3e-5-1.jpg

Posted on Apr 17, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My bmw f650 just cut and i cant seem to find the problem.my mechanic checked the plus,fuses and only managed to get it crunking but wont start.what could be causing this?and some times the fuses get burnt.


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crunk shaft mark no marks there is a little hole of 6 mm dimater between the crunk shaft and the gear bos on right hand side facing engine near the ex manifold,for cammes sae thing 8 mm hole about 2 o clock facing pulley

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How to removal the shaft from the rear end to


Hello,

In order to remove the rear wheel, it is not necessary to remove the drive shaft. The first step is to get your rear wheel off the ground. The easiest way to do this is to put your bike on its center stand. However, not all bikes have center stands. If your bike does not have a center stand, you may want to buy a motorcycle lift (available from Pep-boys, or Harbor Freight). Once the rear wheel is off the ground, you can disconnect the brake linkage, and then remove the rear axle.

At this point there is nothing holding your rear wheel to the bike except for some meshing gears. Now you must lift and maneuver the rear wheel back and forth a little and eventually the final drive will work free. You will be able to slide the wheel toward the right side of the bike and then lower it to the ground.

In theory removing the rear wheel is that simple. In practice, the gears in the final drive can sometimes hold on quite tightly. This is particularly true if the rear wheel has not been removed for a long time or if your final drive is very worn. Usually being patient and persistent will pay off and you will be able to remove the rear wheel.

Sometimes it may prove easier to remove the entire wheel / final drive / drive shaft assembly first, and then separate them. In this case, the order of operations is different. Once you have the rear wheel off the ground, you can disconnect the rear brake linkage just as before. Next you can remove the four bolts that hold the drive shaft housing to the back of your crank case. Finally you can remove the rear axle and slide the wheel backwards the unmesh the drive shaft.

Regardless of which way you remove the rear wheel, it will be easier to put it back together by first attaching the drive shaft and final drive to the crank case, and then reinstall the wheel as described in the first method above.

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Is it crunks but not start or it not even cranks.
If it first check spark plugs/wiring, distributor cap/rotor, colant temperature sensor. To figure it out first try to heat the car engine block with fan to see if it will affect anything. If no good check fuel lines too. If car won't crunk at all it can be starter or blown fuse.
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I believe that on these models the retaining clip is internal,and the shaft seats into a bearing at the other end. If the bearing has come apart it will allow the shaft to slide in and out also. Drain and check the fluid for metal or excessive shavings. If it were external, you should be able to see the groove for the clip with the shaft pulled out. Most likely, you're going to have to pull the engine, and split the cases to get to the tranny in order to fix the problem. Pain in the arse, I know, I've done it a few times on my dirt bikes. Assuming this is the DR250 enduro style dirt bike I'm thinking it is. If I'm wrong on the bike type let me know, and I'll see if I can get more info, cause I believe Suzuki also made a DR 250 S in the late 80's or early 90's, which was a sport bike.

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