Question about Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder Motorcycles
Hi, Shanezzy I don't think so unless you have a faulty connection otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor damaged, contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
14. Fuel filter clogged.
15. Old or contaminated fuel.
16. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
17. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
18. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
19. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. Incompatible performance parts.
24. Control module may be in "LIMP" mode
25. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki intruder 1400 Running Issues
Suzuki Intruder VS1400 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki VS1400 Owner Manual
Posted on Apr 22, 2017
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
It's most likely the connection to the battery. The screws dont tighten in well and you get the famous clicking....I replaced the stock philips screws with a hex bolt and after two years of trying to solve the problen have been starting everytime for the past year no problems. Another gie away is the intermitant starting problem gets worse when wet.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Did you sync the two carbs? If not the rear may be getting all the gas from the rear carb and none to the front. Twist throttle engine off and see if front carb cable is pulling the carb open.
Also unscrew the spark plug boot from the front spark plug wire and trim 1/8th inch off the wire and screw the boot back in. The plug wire end may be corroded on that wire.
Posted on Feb 08, 2010
The problem is most likly not the clutch master cylinder. I have had this problem .The fix is replace the hydrolic line from the master to the slave cylinder.the original from the factory is a mix of rubber and steel .what happens is the rubber swells and will make for a spongey clutch or the steel will corrode under the rubber sleeve causeing a loss in pressure and fluid you will not see the leaks perhaps untill you remove the old line .The neww replacement line from suzuki is stainless steel and not a rubber hose and works really well .It is not an easy thing to install the line if not mechanicly inclined do not atemp to do this repair by yourself..before you take time to rebuild the master do this first and then eliminate the master and the slave ..I hope this will save a lot of time and give you more time to safely ride your bike .It took me quite a while to figure this out it definately works.
Posted on Sep 22, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 21, 2017 | 2000 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Jun 23, 2017 | 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Mar 29, 2017 | 1997 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
May 23, 2016 | 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Mar 26, 2016 | Suzuki Motorcycles
Aug 30, 2015 | 1997 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Aug 24, 2013 | 1998 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Jun 28, 2012 | 1996 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
Jun 07, 2015 | Suzuki VL 125 Intruder LC Motorcycles
23 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: