I recently bought this bike. Had been stored for a few years. Rebuilt the carbs, new plugs. It now starts fine, but wont run over about 3000rpm. Not enough power to drive it. runs great on starting fluid, but on gas, only bogs and dies when I give it alot of throttle
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Re: 1982 suzuki gs650 runs, but not over 300rpm
Better check for the ignition coil for proper sparking or igniting of current in the comprssion chamber, check the ignition coil spark plug wire, check the spark plug, check for proper fuel supply in the flow system to Carbs, check for Ignition timing of the bike, or still you cant solve or still worried then dont worry better take the bike to nearest aurhorised Suzuki service centre for better assistance on this problem surely the problem will be solved.
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If the bike was running correctly when it was put in storage two years ago, I would start with the easy things first: As the previous poster suggested, install new, correctly gapped plugs, along with a new battery. Your bike uses an electronic ignition system, and it will not opporate correctly if you have a bad battery. The bike will miss, pop, and backfire, because there is not enough electrical power in storage (battery) to properly run the ignition system.
If these two things do not get the bike running correctly you will need to look at the carbs. Was the bike stored with fuel in the tank and carbs? If so, this is the most likely reason for the bike not wanting to run correctly. Flames from the exhaust are an indication of a very rich fuel/air mixture (a float could be stuck open (it can also be caused by the ignition not working properly and allowing unburnt fuel into the exhaust system)). Cleaning and reassembling mulitple carborators is not that difficult if you are careful and reasonably handy, but tuning them properly can be very difficult. You can save a lot of money if you rebuild them yourself, then take the bike to the shop to be tuned (The standard service rate these days is around $75 an hour)
Mine was stored for 20 years, I ended up replacing the seat and needles, cleaning them thoroughly and when I tried starting it, nothing!! No gas was going to the carbs, it turned out to be my gas pump, it was seized by the old gas remains 'varnish' so I had to clean it numerous times, soaked it in gas cleaner (short period at a time 15 minutes or so, being a very powerful cleaner, you cannot leave it for long without causing greater problems, thus I was able to get the pump going by boosting it with my car batterie, having more cranking amps directly to the pump, the pump was able to release itself from the old crusty varnish.
The slow jets and adjoining passageways are still dirty. As painful as it may be , take the carbs off and clean the slow circuit again or it will never idle. Double check the fuel pump is working properly and the fuel filter is not plugged. One time it took me four cleanings to get all four carbs working on a Suzuki that sat for five years. Also make sure none of the carburetor boots have developed rips from age.
The float is stuck open in the leaking carb. Remove the float bowl and clean the carb after removing the pin holding the float in place. While the float is out, shake it to see if gas has gotten inside it. If so, you will need a new float or will need to drain the float then re-solder it to seal it up again. To drain the float chances are you will need to drill a vent hole in it to allow the gas to drain. Just solder the vent closed when done.
Assuming each of the carb butterflys are opening and closing properly and in sync, and balanced properly, the problem is likely to be hardened rubber ducting and seals between the carbs and the cylinder. A good seal is needed so that un-carburetored outside air does not get into the fuel mix after the carbs. This leans the mix and makes the engine rev high. Any cracks in the rubber manifold can also let air in. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
Google babbitts sports center.com then click on buy oem parts and then select your specific bike. A parts diagram will come up, change the page from 'air cleaner' to 'carburetor' on the drop down menu and you can see your carb assembly. Hope this helps...
to check the float height, invert the carb body holding the float arm pin so the pin will not slip off. With the float arm kept free, measure the height it should be 22.4 + or - 1.0mm
This is what the shop manual says.
basically what that means turn the float bowl upside down and keep the bottom of the float even with the edge of the bowl.