Question about 2007 Triumph Speed triple

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Seems to be uneven fueling at around 6-7000 rpm. firing seems ok but there's a slight but perceptible fluctuating power surge at that rpm.

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You'll have to take it to a good bke shop so they can "balance" the throttle bodies. My BMW R1100RT had the same problem, basically what happens when they are out of tune is that one of the cylinders are running leaner than the other, and in your case, another one is running richer.
So the Fuel Injection tries to put more fuel nto the system for the "lean" cylinder, then senses it is overfuelling on the "rich" cylinder and cuts the fuel supply. Then the evil circle starts again.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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1 Answer

RPM surges about 500; worsened progressively. After a 1 hour wait, problem appeared to disappear.


Could also be EGR Valve or THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR or FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.

May 15, 2016 | 2009 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

2000 Suzuki Esteem 1.8L.. I went to start my motor & turned it off right before started. I heard some kind of backfire. Then I started it and it's been idling high, the surging. Please help!!


scan it yet, a FULL OBD2 scan? why not?if not.
now is the time...


the 1.8L J18 engine, same as the older Sidekick sports used.
same engine , know it I do.
its the precursor to the J20, (j18 is under-stroked, j20 with many of the same parts. inside)
the back fire means explosion sound to rear end of tail pipe?
yes, that is rich raw fuel in the muffler. plus Air.
if there are exhaust cracks and then engine goes rich this can happen( a double failure)
if how ever BACK means, back to the Air cleaner, then that be different reasons, (timing)


engine now starts.?>
engine runs.? has full power, car drives ok.?
JUST?
SURGE,. you never said.

does engine get hot? 180F or more and holds (y/n)
ever get a full tuneup this decade,
most dont so i tell you, bad spark causes, misfire and raw fuel is wasted to the exhaust and sure can go boom.

surging usually means the ISC can not control idle
so it hunts, (a suzuki software engine on all 90s engines)
PCM errors, inside it. (dangerous too)
a modern car, if idle goes too high the ecu commands the ISC closed
and holds it there solid, (safe way , no hunting allowed now)]
so if this car surges, it's , lean engine.

some think flooding is surging.
and this is usually below 800 rpm,
almost stalls, then corrects, seems like a surge.

next time post rpm range of surge.?????

do not drive a surging engine, do not be like Toyota drivers. (over 800 rpm hot)

surge from 400 -800 rpm is class 1 surge.
surge from 800 to say 2000 RPM is class2, and very dangerous to some folks, (key off, get car fixed, tow it)

The ECU controls idle speeds. (hard coded servo controls)

Mar 18, 2016 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What would cause power fluctuations?


low fuel pressure from air / low fuel level and dirty filters may be the fault.

Aug 24, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Car surging


Is the car equipped with the Automatic Transmission?
If so, read on.
Otherwise skip to the end and answer some questions.

POSSIBLE SCENARIO:
I have observed a condition where my car surges slightly when the torque-converter clutch (TCC) cycles between lock and unlock when driving on an uphill grade.
First some basics and history that will explain why the TCC is used.

Engine, Torque Converter, TCC, and Transmission relationship--
The TCC allows for a solid connection between the engine and transmission which allows the input to the transmission to rotate at the same speed as the engine.
Without a TCC, there is slippage between the engine and automatic transmission. The slippage is greatest at low engine RPM. That is what allows the engine to run with the automatic transmission in gear, like when you first shift into gear or stop at a stop sign. When the throttle pedal is depressed, the engine RPM begins to increase and the torque converter begins to slip less and less the more the engine RPM increases. The car moves. But even at cruising speeds the torque converter slips slightly. Engine RPM is greater than transmission input RPM, which is realized as slight decrease in fuel efficiency.
When acceleration is complete and a constant speed is being maintained, the engine power output is reduced to the point where the TCC can engage and eliminate any slippage between the engine and transmission. If the car has a tachometer the engagement of the TCC can be verified when a slight reduction in engine RPM observed without a corresponding change in vehicle speed.
One method used to test the operation of the TCC is as follows:
Find a flat section of road where it is safe to perform the test.
Reach a steady speed and keep the gas pedal depressed with one foot. While observing the tachometer (or listening for an increase in engine RPM), with the other foot depress the brake pedal enough to activate the break light switch but not enough to engage the brakes. When the brake light switch activates, the TCC receives a signal to disengage. With the gas pedal being held steady, release the brake pedal and the engine RPM should decrease when the TCC engages.
Old cars with Automatic Transmissions did not use a TCC. I believe the TCC was put in use in an attempt to increase fuel economy.

MY EXPERIENCE WITH SIMILAR SYMPTOMS
The condition that causes that issue on my car is this:
- A slight uphill grade increases the load on the engine.
The car tends to gradually slow and it is necessary to depress the gas pedal to maintain speed.
- Depressing the throttle pedal (manually, or automatically with cruise control engaged) signals the torque converter clutch to unlock when the load increases slightly. (A more drastic load increase would signal the Transmission to downshift to a lower gear.) The corresponding increase in engine RPM and output is enough to compensate for the reduction in speed. When the vehicle speed, engine RPM, and throttle position stabilize to the point that the TCC will engage and the engine RPM will reduce in correspondence with TCC engagement. Now, if the road conditions have not changed, power output is not enough to maintain vehicle speed. With the increased load caused by full engagement between engine and transmission, and the cycle (surging) repeats itself until the road conditions change.

Does that help?
If not:

QUESTIONS
Please define the symptoms.
What are the road conditions when the surge occurs? (A slight uphill grade?)
What is the frequency of the surge?
Does the engine power output have a noticeable surge?
Is there a speed change related to the surge?
Does the tachometer move up and down with little or no change in vehicle speed?
Are all instrument indication in the normal range?
What else has changed?

Good luck!

May 24, 2014 | Subaru Impreza WRX STi Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

The idling fluctuates to high rpm and to low rpm without touching the accelerator


vacume leaks will cause that listen around for any hissing or whistling and fix any if found.

Dec 07, 2010 | 1994 Honda Civic

1 Answer

My K5 was running OK until today . It had been stood up over the winter and the battery had to be charged about a week ago as it had gone flat. But the bike was running OK after that. Today I took it out...


If the bike was stored the fuel could be stale, use some fuel stabilizer or drain and refill. Check the spark plugs to see if they have fueled up because of the stale fuel.

Mar 21, 2010 | 2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000

1 Answer

2001 3400 engine idle hunting


Faulty injecters might be the problem. Pull a couple off and have someone turn the key to the on position and see if they are spraying properly

Nov 02, 2009 | 2001 Pontiac Grand Am SE

2 Answers

Briggs & Stratton Quattro lawn mower engine. Runs rich and unevenly. Suspect carb and have used sprey carb cleaner. Any suggestions??


A lot of time when the small motors on these push mowers surge it is a governing spring that is weak or broke. It does not hold enough tension and causes the valve to fluctuate. I have fixed this many time for a relatively cheap amount (under $5).

Jun 05, 2009 | Yard Machines 158cc Push Lawn Mower #11a...

1 Answer

RPM's


OK is around 2000 rpm cruising at 60mph (slightly more uphill) You should be at about 1700 going slower in high gear around town.
What you don't want to see is a "flair" when shifting, or rpm above 2500 at cruising speed except uphill. There are many things that influence rpm while driving...road conditions, uphill, downhill, tire size etc. but these numbers are a good "ballpark" reference. Your own experience with your car is the best baseline. If rpm is different than what you have gotten used to as "normal" you should have it checked out.

May 24, 2009 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

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