Question about 2006 BMW HP2 Enduro

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I need the torque settings for changing the wheels on my BMW HP2 as I have lost the settings for the front axle,front brake caliper and rear wheel bolts

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BMW workshop DVD says Front axle M22x1,5 (greased) = 50NM Front axle pinch bolts = 8NM Brake caliper to fork bolts = 30NM Rear wheel bolts M10x53x1,25 = 60NM
Brake caliper to fork torque needed if changing to SM wheels. Method. Torque greased axle bolt to 50NM, then compress forks several times without using brakes, then tighten both LHS axle pinch bolts to 8NM, then tighten both RHS axle pinch bolts to 8NM. Then test your brakes are working. Front finished. Rear. Torque to 60NM. I torque every second bolt as I work my way around the 5 Torx screws until they have all been torqued and double checked

Posted on Jul 31, 2009

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Remove rear wheel on 2012 flhtc harley


To remove a 2012 TOURING rear wheel FIRST remove the saddlebags, then raise the wheel with a suitable lifting device and rotate the wheel and inspect the wheel bearings. THEN remove left side muffler, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX, FLTRX), remove the left side lower saddlebag support rail and if ABS equipped remove the cable strap to releasethe rear wheel speed sensor cable from the rear brake hose and at no time ever left any magnetic force field exist or be close to the speed sensor or it will be ruined, remove the rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard or otherwise appropriately support it, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, hold the weld nut on the left side of the axle and loosen the cone nut on the right side of the axle using an AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIM's or H-D (HD- 47925), remove the cone nut and the adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the left side of the axlecounterclockwise until the wheel is loose, remove the axle from the left side of the motorcycle, catch all of the external spacer(s), caliper bracket, and rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) as the axle is removed, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear fork, move wheel forward enough so that you can and slip the drive belt off of the compensator sprocket, if needed remove the brake disc from hub and be careful that the drive sprocket does not fall off and get damaged as you remove the wheel from the bike, mark the wheel and the disc for re-installation in the same orientation.

To install a 2012 TOURING rear wheel you will need FASTENER TORQUE VALUEs. The brake disc (rear) screws are 30-45 ft-lbs 41-61 Nm; (Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws because re-using these can result in torque loss and always reinstall a brake disc in its original orientation); the rear axle cone nut (preliminary - 15-20 ft-lbs 20-27 Nm) (Final 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm ) ; Brake caliper (rear)mounting fasteners 43-48 ft-lbs 58.3-65.1 Nm. If the brake disc was removed from the wheel ALWAYS reinstall it in the same orientation with the wheel as when it was removed and ALWAYS use NEW attaching screws and tighten them in a crosswise pattern to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), verify that the sprocket is square to and fully seated in the bowl area of the wheel, place the wheel into the rear fork with the drive sprocket installed, install the belt over the drive sprocket and then slide the wheel back to take up the slack, seat the brake caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear fork, apply a light coat of wheel bearing type grease (H-D suggest silver anti-seize compound but this technician finds almost all seized, corroded axles were lubricated thus so do as you feel best) to the axle to the bearing bores and to the bore of the spacer sleeve, slide the axle through the left side of rear fork, the thin external spacer, the sprocket and into the wheel hub out the other side of the wheel hub and through the rear wheel speed sensor if ABS equipped and if ABS equipped ensure that the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the rear wheel speed sensor are on the outboard side or through the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the brake caliper bracket, and the right side of the rear fork, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and with the adjuster cam section forward, install the adjuster cam on the right end of the axle, apply a light coat of SILVER GRADE ANTI-SEIZE (H-D Part No. 98960-97) to the inboard side of the cone nut but NOT the threads, install the cone nut on axle finger tight only, if ABS equipped route the speed sensor cable forward and outboard of the brake caliper bracket, continue forward following the top of the rear fork, rotate the speed sensor in a counterclockwise direction until the index pin makes contact with the brake caliper bracket, tighten the cone nut to a preliminary torque of 15-20 ft lbs (20-27 Nm), install the brake caliper and tighten its screws to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), secure the rear wheel speed sensor cable to the brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. (31.8mm) in front of the brake hose crimp, adjust the drive belt using a belt tension gauge, final tighten the cone nut to 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm, install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on the right side of the axle, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers, install the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install the left side muffler and tighten its fasteners to 96-144 in-lbs 10.9-16.3 Nm,depress the rear brake pedal a number of times to set the brake pads properly against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and THEN road test the vehicle.

May 28, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Remove rear wheel from 008 streetgide


To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler,on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

May 05, 2014 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

What is the axle torque settings on the front an rear axle bolts on a 2007 ktm 250 xc?


Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
I have compiled a list of all the useful KTM torque setting that apply to your bike.

KTM Torque settings


  1. Collar screw, front wheel spindle Front axle nut 40Nm 30ft lbs
  2. Brake Caliper front Brake Caliper front Loctite 243 2 19ft lbs
  3. Brake Disk, front Brake disk front Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  4. Brake Disk, rear Brake disk rear Loctite 243 1 11ft lbs
  5. Clamping screws, upper fork bridge Top triple clamp 20Nm 15ft lbs
  6. Clamping screws, lower fork bridge Bottom triple clamp 15Nm 11ft lbs
  7. Clamping screws, fork stubs Front axle pinch bolts 10Nm 7ft lbs
  8. Collar nut, rear wheel spindle Rear axle nut 80Nm 59ft lbs
  9. Hex nut swingarm bolt Swingarm nut 100Nm 74ft lbs
  10. Hex collar screw handlebar clamp Upper handlebar clamps 20Nm 15ft lbs
  11. Allen head screw handlebar support Lower handlebar clamps Loctite 243 4 30ft lbs
  12. Shock absorber top Shock absorber top bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  13. Shock absorber bottom Shock absorber botton bolt 60Nm 44ft lbs
  14. Sprocket screws Rear sprocket bolts Loctite 243 3 25ft lbs
  15. Ball joint for push rod Rear brake pedal pivot Loctite 243 1 7ft lbs
  16. Engine mounting bolts Engine mounting bolts 45Nm 33ft lbs
  17. Engine brace Engine brace 33Nm 24ft lbs
  18. Screw adjusting ring spring preload Shock preload collar bolt 8Nm 6ft lbs
  19. Spoke nipple Spokes 5Nm 4ft lbs
  20. Other Screws on chassis M6 10Nm 7ft lbs
  21. M8 25Nm 19ft lbs
  22. M10 45Nm 33ft lbs
  23. Other collar nutes on chassis M6 15Nm 11ft lbs
  24. M8 30Nm 22ft lbs
  25. M10 50Nm 37ft lbs
  26. Front Sprocket 44ft lbs
Let us know if we can provide further assistance.
Best regards,
TF

Jul 05, 2011 | KTM 250 XC Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have just purchased a Kawasaki 98 GPXR motorbike and need to replace the front wheel tyre. How do i go about removing the wheel so that i can take it to the mechanics to get this done?


Torque specs:

Front axle = 80 ft/lb
Front axle clamp bolt = 15 ft/lb
Front axle caliper mounting bolts = 25 ft/lb

Front Wheel Removal:

1. While the bike is still on the rear stand (but before putting it on the front stand), loosen the front axle clamp bolt with a 6mm hex bit. You do not need to remove it fully, just be sure it's loose.

2. Using the 14mm hex bit, loosen the front axle bolt. A breaker bar makes this step easier. Once it is loose you can go ahead and place the motorcycle on the front stand.

3. Using the 12mm socket, remove the front brake caliper mounting bolts. Once you have the brake off of the rotor, replace the bolts back in the caliper to prevent losing them. Hang the brake using cable ties or twine. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL! This will compress the brake pads and make it difficult to re-install. Repeat the process for the other side.

4. Once the brakes are tied off out of the way, finish removing the front axle bolt. It's helpful to use some wood to support the wheel while removing the axle bolt. Be sure to note the spacers on the wheel between the forks and the wheel. Remove them so they don't get lost. These will need to be greased before reinstalling.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to replace the calipers and torque them to 25 ft/lb. Once the front axle bolt has been torqued to 80 ft/lb, be sure to drop the front to the ground and bounce the front forks 4-5 times. This will seat the forks on the axle. Then you can tighten the front axle clamp bolt to 15 ft/lb.

Mar 26, 2011 | kawasaki GPX 750 R Motorcycles

2 Answers

How to change brake pad and check rotors


Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front for_car_toy_cam_02-04_sst_frt_dsc_asm.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the front wheels. toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  4. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of the 2 brake pads.
  5. Remove the wear indicator from each of the 2 brake pads.
To Install:
NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press piston into the caliper.
  2. Apply disc brake grease to the inside of each anti-squeal shim.
  3. Install the anti-squeal shims on each pad.
  4. Install the pad wear indicator clip to the pads.
  5. Install the pads with the pad wear indicator plate facing upward.
  6. Install the brake caliper with the 2 mounting bolts. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  7. Install the front wheels.
  8. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  9. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Rear TMC made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmcrearbrakes.gif

TMMK made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmmkrearbrakes.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain the brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the rear wheels.
  3. Remove the caliper slide pins.
  4. Remove the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  5. Remove the rear brake calipers.
  6. Remove the 2 brake pads with the anti-squeal shims.
  7. Remove the anti-squeal shims and pad wear indicators from brake pads.
To Install:
  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press the piston into the caliper.
  2. Coat both sides of the outer anti-squeal shim with pad grease.
  3. Install anti-squeal shims to each pad.
  4. Install wear indicators on the 2 brake pads.
  5. Install the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  6. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  7. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  8. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  9. Install the rear wheels.
prev.gif next.gif Brake Rotor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
  1. Remove the front wheels.
  2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the front brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the front wheel disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the front disc.
  2. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
  3. Install the brake caliper. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the front wheel.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and the caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the rear disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the rear disc.
  2. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the bracket bolt 46 ft-lb (61.8 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the bracket bolt 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  3. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 32 ft-lb (43 Nm)
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the rear wheel
prev.gif next.gif

Jan 25, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

What tools are required to replace front disks on a e36,328 sport


A set of metric wrenches or sockets will do the job

Nov 16, 2010 | BMW 328 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What tools needed to replace front brake pads & rotors


Brake Pads
Removal & Installation
Front





3.4L front disc brake assembly
toy_4run_34_frontbrakeassembly.gif








4.0L and 4.7L front disc brake assembly
toy_4run_frontbrakeassembly.gif



To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Front wheel
    • Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads
      and the 4 anti-squeal shims

To Install:

CAUTION
Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the
vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons
on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or
replacement of the brake caliper.


  1. Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
  3. Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
  4. Install or connect the following:

    • Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads
      NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced
      together with the pads.

    • 2 brake pads
    • Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
    • Clip
    • Front wheel

  5. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  6. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.

Rear
To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Rear wheel






      toy_4run_rearcalbolts.gif



    • 2 cylinder slide pins from rear caliper assembly
    • Caliper assembly from rear caliper mounting
    • 2 brake pads with anti-squeal shims from rear caliper mounting
    • 2 anti-squeal shims from each disc brake pads
    • Pad wear indicator plate from the inner side disc brake pad
    • 4 pad support plates from the rear caliper mounting

To Install:


  1. Install or connect the following:

    • 4 pad support plates on the rear caliper mounting
    • Pad wear indicator plate on the inside brake pad
      Note: Install the pad wear indicator facing downward.

    • Anti-squeal shims on each brake pad
    • 2 disc brake pads with anti-squeal shims to the caliper assembly

  2. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to the sliding part of 2 caliper slide
    pins.
  3. Install or connect the following:

    • Disc brake caliper assembly with 2 caliper slide pins
    • Torque to 65 ft-lbs (88 Nm)
    • Rear wheel

  4. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  5. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
--- Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Front wheel
    • Front brake caliper assembly

  3. Make matchmarks on the disc and the axle hub.
  4. Remove the front disc.

To Install:


  1. Align matchmarks and disc onto axle hub.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    • Front brake caliper assembly with the 2 bolts

      1. Torque to 90 ft-lbs (123 Nm)

    • Front wheel

Sep 23, 2010 | 2003 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

How to disassemble the rear end in a 2000 gmc yukon and how to remove axles


Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section
  2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel and tire assemblies but do not remove the lug nuts
  3. Raise and support the vehicle
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Wheel and tire assemblies
    • Axle lubricant into a suitable container
    • Rear driveshaft
    • Parking brake cable
    • Brake calipers
    • Shock absorbers from the axle brackets
    • Vent hose from the rear axle vent fitting
    • Nuts and the washers from the U-bolts
    • U-bolts, spring plates and spacers from the axle assembly
  5. Lower the axle assembly from the vehicle
To Install:
  1. Place the rear axle assembly under the vehicle
  2. Align the rear axle assembly with the springs then connect the spacers, spring plates and the U-bolts to the rear axle
  3. Raise the rear axle assembly into position
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • Washers and nuts to the U-bolts; Torque to: 59 lb-ft. (80 Nm) then, Torque to: 89 lb-ft. (120 Nm)
    • Vent hose to the rear axle vent fitting
    • Shock absorbers to the rear axle
    • Brake calipers (See: Brake Caliper)
    • Parking brake cable (See: Parking Brake Cable)
    • Rear driveshaft (See: Rear Driveshaft)
    Wheel lug nut tightening sequence gm_trk_sub15_wheel_lug_nut_tight_seq.gif

  5. Fill the rear axle with lubricant
  6. Bleed the brake system (See: Brake Bleeding)
  7. Install the wheel and tire assemblies
  8. Lower the vehicle to the ground
  9. Torque lug nuts as follows:
    • Single Wheel: Torque to: 140 lb-ft. (190 Nm)
    • Dual Wheel: Torque to: 175 lb-ft. (240 Nm)
  10. Road test the vehicle to check performance
prev.gif next.gif

Aug 03, 2010 | 2000 GMC Yukon XL

1 Answer

Need specs for changing rear and front tires for 2002 royal star venture including torx specs


I'll include the obvious, since I'm not sure exactly what you need:

Front tire - 150/80-16 Dunlop D404F or Bridgestone G705, recommended inflation 36 p.s.i.

Rear tire - 150/90-15 Dunlop D404 or Bridgestone G702, recommended inflation 36 p.s.i., 41 p.s.i. with passenger or load.

The front tire can be removed (motorcycle on lift) without loosening calipers or any other parts once axle shaft has been withdrawn; after the tire has been changed and the wheel and axle shaft is back in place, torque for the axle nut is 58 ft.-lbs (78 nm) and the pinch nut is 14 ft.-lbs. (19 nm).

The rear tire requires removal of the right saddlebag and brake caliper, as well as the axle shaft. During reassembly, the torque for the axle nut is 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

Apr 15, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

1 Answer

How to change to rear tire


To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler, on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

Feb 27, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

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