Question about Yamaha Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Faulty fuel pump.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
11. Enricher valve inoperative.
12. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
13. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
14. Faulty ignition coil.
15. Valves sticking.
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Posted on Jan 06, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Yamaha TTR 125 L won't idle
i cleaned the carb on the bike and put it back together and now it is as if the float is stuck open and is just dumping gas out of the carb all over the ground.
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
Pull the slide out of the throat of the carb then move the clip at the top of the needle down one notch, two if needed. This will richen the low end fuel mix.
Need a "very helpful" rating asap. Thanks!
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
SOURCE: not sure why my bike wont start
How long did the bike set un-used? After years, gasoline turns into varnish after evaporation of the aromatic hydrocarbons. I've actually seen a substance like molasses in all the carbs and the gas tank. Take a bowl off of a carb and see what you find. If it has gone to varnish, you will need to disassemble every component that gasoline touches as a liquid and re-build and clean out the gunk. (yes, gas tank too and the diverter valve) This is a common problem.
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: timeing a yamaha 175 enduro
Without the year of the bike I am hampered. Lets assume it is an older bike and has a set of ignition points and not a CDI model.
Pull the cover off the shifter side of the engine. Remove the spark plug then turn the flywheel so you can see the points. Oil on them? Dirt, or rust? Next check the main bearing. Do not rotate the flywheel but instead hold the flywheel firmly and lift it up and down, left and right. Was there any movement or was the flywheel rock solid?
I am willing to bet that the points were dirty and there was a lot of play in the crank bearings. If so, you will need new crank bearings and seals plus new points and condenser. The engine needs to tear down into about 75 parts in order to replace the bearings. The job requires some special tools to remove the flywheel and clutch, plus a crankcase separator the split the gearbox.
This is not a job for the beginner. I suggest you have the shop do the work and also that you spring for 3 more bearings and seals plus a fresh cylinder bore, new piston and rings and a new spark plug. You now have a brand new engine that should run well and last for many years. Please rate this solution. Thanks
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
SOURCE: cbr 125 choke problem
It sounds like the choke line may not have been routed correctly when the new one was installed. Remove the gas tank and check to see that the line is not being stretched anywhere along the way AND that the gas tank when re-installed is not stretching the line. The line may have been kinked when installed. Look at the mechanical movement of the choke at the carb. Does it operate freely? Remove the air filter and look inside the center of the carb, (you may need to use a small mirror for this), does it look like the choke is opening and closing properly when the choke is moved on and off?
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
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