Question about 2005 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

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Right hand (trottle side) exhaust air flow is hot, but the left hand exhaust air flow is only warm at best. Is this normal? On start up there is smoke out of the right side but none from the left side. Air flow seems like the same amount.

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Check the piston and replace for damage the problem is in the piston.

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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Blowing cold air engine overheating


You will need to bleed the coolant system. There will be a bleed screw on the left hand side of the manifold. There is not enough coolant to flow through the heater core.

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Heater not blowing hot air


when you operates the heater button worm water of your engine's water jackets enter to the evaporator locates inside your A/C blower & air flows through it & air becoming worm. Therefore I proposed you to check your vent linkages for vent doors inside the blower unit.

Nov 24, 2013 | Land Rover Range Rover Cars & Trucks

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1997 Honda CBR 1100 XX. Bike builds idle slowly when cold . right side exhaust is forceful and hot while left side exhaust in minimal and warm only. Changed plugs and made no difference. Seems to idle...


Clay, you have a tiger by the tail. There are a lot of little parts to the carb system. I will try to assist you in the basics without carb removal. This may require a few replies back and forth. Start by turning off the gas then drain the carbs. Now turn on the gas and check to see that fuel flows into each carb. If gas starts flowing out of all the float bowls, now that the gas is back on, then all carbs are getting gas. To drain the carbs just remove the drain screw on the bottom of each carb float bowl. Two carbs have the drain screw on the left, two have it on the right side. Reply with what you find. tombones49_51.gif

Apr 03, 2011 | 1997 Honda CBR 1100 XX Super blackbird

1 Answer

The frame where the doors close onto is hot to the


Hi Mr Hodjati,

No this is not normal. You have a failure of air flow in your condenser. I will explain how to repair if you wish to make the repair youself. If this is not addressed you will soon realize a reduction in cooling and a higher use of energy.

There is a fan that pulls air in from the lower right side front of the refrigerator grille located below the fresh food door, and exhausts the air on the left side of this same grille. Remove this grill and clean the coils with a vacume cleaner and a brush. Pull the refrigerator out so you can get behind the unit. Unplug the power cord from the wall. Next remove the screws from the panel behind the refrigerator near the bottom, the panel may look like a piece of cardboard, but it is a critical component. Once this panel is removed you will see the fan motor and fan blade, make sure nothing like a food wrapper or animal is stuck in the fan causing it to be stuck. If it turns free by hand (it will be real hot down there so be careful), then the motor needs replaced. If you send me the model number I can find you the replacement part number. Let me know if this helps.

Apr 18, 2010 | KitchenAid Architect 24.5 Cu. Ft....

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How to change an exhaust manifold leak 7.5L


Right-Hand
Removal
  1. Remove spark plug heat shield (12A406).
  1. Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
    1. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
    1. If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
    1. Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
    1. Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use







Left-Hand Removal






1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
  1. Remove spark plug heat shield.
  1. Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
  1. Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
  1. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
  1. Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
  1. Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Installation
  1. Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
  1. Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
    1. Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
    1. Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
    1. Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
    1. Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
      1. Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
      1. Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
      1. Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
      2. Start engine (6007) and check for exhaust leaks.







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Hope this helps you...WF †

Mar 10, 2010 | 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

1 Answer

How to put in a thermostat for a 2000 oldsmobile silhouette


ok this is the best way i found to do these
1 drain the coolant
2 remove the air snorkle fron the trottle body to the air box
3 disconnect the heater bypass pipe that runs across the front valve cover
there is a 8mm bolt and a 13mm nut at the trottle body remove the hose at the front and the 2 at the trottle body
4 disconnect the throttle cabe and cruise control if equiped remove the wiring the TPS IAC then remove the throttle body bolts 13mm CAREFULLY REMOVE THE TROTTLE BODY AND THE GASKET SHOULD BE OK TO REUSE if it tears replace it
5 now you have acess to the thermostat remove the rad hose
6 there are 2 13mm bolts the top one remove all the way the bottom one has a slotted hole remove about 80%
remove the thermostat housing
7 replace the thermostat
8 REASSEMBLE IN REV.ORDER and the O RING SEALS lube with a silicone grease
9 after the vehicle is all assembled LOOSEN AIR BLEED SCREW ON THE BYPASS PIPE
10 refill cooling system till coolant FLOWS OUT THE AIR BLEED IN A STREAM CLOSE THE AIR BLEED
11 top up coolant and coolant over flow bottle
USE ONLY GM DEXCOL if you need to add some IT IS ORANGE IN COLOR
12 start vehicle and adjust your heater controls to HOT AND MODE TO VENT let vehicle run till AIR COMING OUT OF VENTS IS HOT not just warm that will insure there is no air locks in cooling system
hope this was help full

Dec 12, 2009 | 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1 Answer

My dryer seems to be overheating? It is very hot and taking a long time to dry my clothes. When I open the door there is alot of steam coming out. Any suggestions?


This is commonly caused by a clog in the exhaust vent ducting. If you have not inspected the ducting any time recently, now may be a good time to do so.

The problem can also be internal. If the blower fan assembly becomes clogged, it can exhibit the same symptoms due to poor air flow.

A simple test you can try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and try drying a load as you normally would. The air flow leaving the back of the dryer should be warm and forceful.

If the air flow is normal and your clothes dry like they should, you have a clog or restriction somewhere in the exhaust vent from the point where it leaves to dryer, to where it exits your home. You will need to inspect and clean as necessary.

NOTE: The exhaust should be at least 12 inches from the ground to prevent rodent intrusion. If you use an exhaust vent cover, make sure it is the louvered variety. Using any type of screen can clog easily. In addition, you should be using the semi-rigid metal type ducting. It resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation. A kinked hose can exhibit the same symptoms as a clogged dryer.

If the air flow is weak, you have an internal clog. You will need to access your dryer air blower assembly to ensure the fan is moving properly and it not clogged. Rodents are notorious for building nests in these areas and blocking the air flow.

A clogged dryer will actually over heat, because these is no air flow to keep the heat circulating. The result is a dryer that appears to be very hot, but the clothes take longer times than usual to dry. If left in this condition, the heating circuits will eventually fail.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 20972

1 Answer

Trottle side exhaust of bike is hot but the left side exhaust is warm at best. Good air flow on both sides. The four cylinders and heads seem to be heated up the same amount. The motor is working fine, I...


You are obviously not getting good combustion on that cylinder that is only warm. You are not running 100% on all 4. That WILL cause issues in the future because it upsets the balance. The bike is not firing evenly. Is this thing new?

Jul 21, 2009 | 2005 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

1 Answer

Dryer will start but no heat


First, verify the voltage at the wall receptacle to ensure you are reading 220-240 VAC across the two hot leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots on the recepatacle). If the voltage is incorrect, the dryer may still run, but won't heat.

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems, or longer dry times, is poorly installed, or clogged ventilation. If you haven't checked the dryer ventilation or cabinet interior anytime recently, now might be a good time to do so.

A simple test to try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees).

If the air flow is normal, and your clothes dry normally, the problem is with your exhaust ducting from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. I would recommend you inspect the entire length of your exhaust ventliation to make sure it is free of kinks or clogs if this is the case.

If the air flow is weak, then the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. The most common source of the problem is a clog in the blower fan housing preventing air to flow properly. Remove the blower fan housing cover and clean as necessary. Make sure the blower fan can turn unobstructed.

If the dryer is running and you confirm there is sufficient air blowing from the exhaust, but still have no heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

In the majority of cases, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The TCO and Hi-Limit thermostat are located on the outside of the heater box. If one or the other of these components is discovered to be bad, it is recommended that you replace BOTH of them. Failure to do so, can result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Make sure you verify the dryer ventilation is clear prior to operating it with new components. If left in a clogged or poorly ventilation condition, the dryer will overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this can cause a fire hazard.

Let me know if you still have problems. I hope this helps you.

Jun 27, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Why did my dryer stop getting hot?


First, verify the voltage at the wall receptacle to ensure you are reading 220-240 VAC across the two hot leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots on the recepatacle). If the voltage is incorrect, the dryer may still run, but won't heat.

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems, or longer dry times, is poorly installed, or clogged ventilation. If you haven't checked the dryer ventilation or cabinet interior anytime recently, now might be a good time to do so.

A simple test to try is to remove the exhaust vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the exhaust should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees).

If the air flow is normal, and your clothes dry normally, the problem is with your exhaust ducting from the point where it leaves your dryer to where it exits your home. I would recommend you inspect the entire length of your exhaust ventliation to make sure it is free of kinks or clogs if this is the case.

If the air flow is weak, then the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. The most common source of the problem is a clog in the blower fan housing preventing air to flow properly. Remove the blower fan housing cover and clean as necessary. Make sure the blower fan can turn unobstructed.

If the dryer is running and you confirm there is sufficient air blowing from the exhaust, but still have no heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

In the majority of cases, the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The TCO and Hi-Limit thermostat are located on the outside of the heater box. If one or the other of these components is discovered to be bad, it is recommended that you replace BOTH of them. Failure to do so, can result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Make sure you verify the dryer ventilation is clear prior to operating it with new components. If left in a clogged or poorly ventilation condition, the dryer will overheat to the point of failure. Not to mention, this can cause a fire hazard.

Let me know if you still have problems. I hope this helps you.

Jun 25, 2009 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

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