Hi all, got caught in a down poor going to work, bike running well all the way there, the next morning started well on the choke, after warm up selected gear to take off, started to backfire and kept stalling, wouldnt rev and when it did sounded like running on one cylinder. The only after market addition is a pair of hi rise jardine exhaust. My thought are the kick stand sensor is faulty? checked ignition leads seem dry. Hope you can help Many thanks GAZZA W
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Re: engine missing/ backfiring, no pulling power
Hi I am vortash sounds to me like an ignition lead short check that the leads on the pot are not sparking to earth effectively cutting off the spark to one cylinder ( electricity takes the shortest point to earth so wont reach the plug if sparking to the cylinder ) I think youll find if it was the Kick stand sensor it wouldnt even fire up .. ? check all your HT circuit for damp or damaged leads .. hope this is of help regrads Vortash
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Hi,when starting bike you put the chock on,remeber this is to make a richer mixture for cold start,so when you start the bike put put the choke off a little bit as it warms up,other wise wat you are doing is couseing it to floud,so again as the bike warms up put the choke off little bit at a time,all the best.
If everything is in good working order many newcomers to their bikes make a mistake when starting them cold they tend to open the throttle when the motor needs a richer mixture to run and start, now here is the secret lol full choke and do not touch the throttle do not open it when cold cranking the bike,once it starts then as it warms up ease off the choke then your good to go.
Symptoms of a bike running VERY lean. You should never have to ride with the choke on AT ALL.And running a bike lean,causes iit to overheat,and overheat FAST! Has the exhaust or air filter/box been modified? This is classic symptoms of an extremely lean running bike,and my solution would be to buy a jet kit,take the carbs off and clean them,install the correct larger jets,and synch the carbs. You dont wanna ride this bike like that,or you risk burning a piston.
G'day mate the 1st thing i would go for is float level then compresion if it does have the **** it wont take the fuel in , rules are if it has **** ( induction ) Squeeze (compression) Bang ( spark) and Blow (free exhaust) then it should go, if it was running to lean there is good chance it has a burnt exhaust valve which will greatly drop the compression/induction, also check the valve clearence. hope this helps
Try putting in new, stock spark plugs. Check and possibly replace the air filter. Charge the battery. Get the bike running then check the battery voltage at 2000 rpm. It should show 14volts or more. If not, get the charging system checked. Get a can of starting spray (for future problems).
Get the compression checked. Your bike is 21 years old and I will bet that the valves are needing to be reseated. Check the valve clearances with a cold engine and reset valve clearances as needed. Check the area where the head contacts th cylinder. Any mist of an oil stain? Tighten the head or replace the head gasket. If replacing the gasket, now is the time to have the shop lap re-seat the valves. Have them sync and balance the carbs as well. Your bike will now have its' manners back and show you the dedication it should.
no doubt this bike is running very lean at idle. Thats the way the EPA wants it. Im a harley mechanic and i used to work in a US dealer. all carb bikes at set up time had the carbs "readjusted". We drilled out the EPA plug and turned the idle air screw out and drilled out the pilot jet too. The bikes worked much better. we were at sea level too so the bikes were very lean from the factory. I can imagine that after the new legislation that came into force they are even leaner and require a full warm up to run properly. Warmed up means you put your hand on the motors head and its hot enought to have to jerk it away. this could take more than a couple minutes. and yes our "readjustment" was illegal. i advice you to do the same.