My rocket 3 will engage starter for 1 second then nothing. battery is at 13 volts. bike has 10k miles

Ok, here are a few things to do and check.
1. can you jump the car using jumper cables, if so then battery is likely weak.
2. If so then turn car off, clean battery terminals and cable ends, undo negative cable first then positive. Clean both then install positive then negative.
3. If 1 and two do not work have the battery voltage checked it should be around 13 volts at normal charge if not then the battery may have a bad cell which can cause the car to not start even if jumped.
4. If battery is fine then the solenoid on the starter has gone bad. The solenoid is the thing in the starter that causes the starter gear to engage isth the gear on the motor to spin it to start the car.

Warning, batteries contain harmful acid which can injure you please take the normal care required when working with batteries and jumper cables.

Hi, David and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Faulty ignition switch.
6. Faulty starter button.
7. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
8. Security alarm needs a reset.
9. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
10. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
11. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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In these cases you have three possibilities (assuming the wiring is good).

1. The solenoid (starter relay) is receiving current from the key switch but is not engaging properly or consistently. To check this component, bypass it. To bypass it use one side of a jumper cable. Clip to the positive of the battery with one end of the jumper cable (red). Hold to the large input wire on the starter with the other end of the same jumper cable (red). This should cause the starter to turn over strongly. If so, replace the solenoid.

2. If you try the above scenario 3 to 6 times and find the starter turns over inconsistently, or at times does not turn over at all, you may have flat spots on the starter. In this case you will have to replace the starter (this is the least likely scenario).

3. BEFORE you consider either of the above, consider the battery. This is an easy check if you have a simple volt meter. It's much better to have an old fashioned needle meter rather than a digital. The needle is more sensitive, much quicker, and makes a clearer diagnostic tool. But not to worry, a digital still works (sometimes the results are not as clear).

1. Set the meter to DC Volts
2. Attach the red and black leads of the meter to the positive and negative posts of the battery. Most modern day meters don't care if the polarity is correct or not. However, if you have a needle meter, best to put the positive of the battery with the red wire of the meter; otherwise the needle will not be happy with you.
3. Note voltage. It should read above 13 volts if the battery is good and fully charged.
4. Crank the engine while keeping your eyes on the meter. The meter should not fall much below 11 Volts. If it falls below 10 volts or worse yet below 9 volts, the battery has a bad cell or two. Replace the battery, charge it, and repeat the test.
5. If the solenoid just rapidly clicks watch the meter needle.
   1. If the meter needle rapidly jumps up and down below 10 volts, back to 13, below 10, back to 13 then it's more likely you have a bad starter.
   2. If the needle simply seems to vibrate a little you more likely have a bad solenoid. Refer to steps 1 and 2.
6. If the engine starts, rev it up and watch the meter.
   1. If the charging system is working the voltage on the meter should quickly rise above 12 or 13 volts.
   2. If it rises up strongly towards the 14 volt range this indicates the charging system of the machine is working.
   3. If it plays around down near 12 volts you are reading the recovered voltage of a good battery, but the charging system is not working.
   4. If it simply stays below 11 volts, the battery and the charging system are both suspect. Replace the battery first. Fully charge it, and then repeat the tests before worrying about the charging system.

I can't suggest any parts numbers because you did not include the very important Make/Model/Year. However, these general instructions will work for most riding lawn and garden tractors.

Sounds like the battery is not holding a charge, if you connect a volt meter just after charging you will get a good reading, each cell of a battery is 2.2 volts so you should have a reading of 13 volts. Battery may have a faulty cell, which will drag the other cells down, is the electolite covering the plates in all the cells, this will affect the battery's ability to hold a charge. My Suzuki did this earlier on this year, nearly bought a new battery, checked and topped up the electolite first and its been fine since

Hi, Topgunadpro before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand or clutch pull in switch/sensor.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid or starter circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Serge_nojin before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Jordan_x_tur before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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take your battery and have it tested. just because you have voltage dosnt mean its there under a load

check wireing to starter and fuses then service inspection needed .

nada. No gauges no lights absolutely nothing. All that happens is when I turn the ignition switch off the tach bounces backward quickly about 6 or 8 times. I put the bike on the battery tender and within 20 minutes it was showing in good shape. Still nothing. Checked battery leads. No problem. I checked all the fuses around the battery and up next to the dash. Nothing there. I R & R'd all of the relays next to the dash and the 3 behind the tool kit with the same relays off of my Mille. Still nothing. I changed the odd relay next to the battery that says UP on it. Don't know what it is but it rattles. Maybe a tip over sensor? Nothing. I tried jumping the bike off with a portable jump start battery. Nothing. I switched the battery out. Nothing. I pulled the front fairing and checked all connections. Found everything to be just fine. Put a battery charger on the fully charged battery and suddenly got ignition lights and headlights. Turned the key back off and once again nothing. A few more times it would come back and show lights and gauges but when I went to start everything went dead again. I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch? It doesn't seem worn out at all. I jiggled the key didn't seem to make a difference. The bike only has about 10k miles on it. Any ideas? ,Some 'friend'... did this ever happen to him? Good diag work so far, and I don't have anything specific to look at. Hopefully one of the sm-m-m-marter members can assist. ,,,