Question about Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport Motorcycles
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Posted on Dec 26, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not too much, if you are a fair mechanic. You probably should get a service manual tho. Basically, you remove the foot pegs and anything in the way, remove shifter, clutch cable. Drain the trans oil, then pull the cover. A couple parts may fall out, that's why I suggested a service manual.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Drain the oil tank by taking the hose loose that plugs onto the frame on the left side of the bike right behind the engine down low. Look underneath the engine and you see a small plug that screws into the primary cover from the bottom. This plug uses a Torx wrench to remove it.
Change the oil filter. This is a messy job as oil pours out of the filter as you unscrew it from the engine. Install the new filter and tighten. Add three quarts of oil to the oil tank of the engine and one quart of primary/transmission oil to the primary. The primary and transmission are lubricated by the same oil. I think the later model bikes came with Syn3 oil in both places.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
SOURCE: oil change cold or warm engine
Cold oil will take longer to drain versus hot oil. This subject can go around in circles till time ends.The most important concern is really regular oil/filter changes. A good quality filter will remove the harmful particulates that can damage your engine. If you choose to change your oil when it's hot I highly recommend that you wear insulated gloves.
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
SOURCE: specs and oil capacity
Most owners of the old Ironheads try to use the oils that were used when they were built. They use straight 50 weight when the weather is cold and 60 weight when temps are hot. But, one could use 10W50 oil in them. I would not use synthetic as any oil leaks will intensify with the use of synthetic oil. The XLH, XLX, and XLS tanks hold three quarts with the exception of the XR1000 which hold two quarts.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
My guess woud be that you either have not got the timing set correctly or something to do with the intake/ carb.
Since you say you replaced the advance weights, this tells me that you removed the breaker plate. I hope that you replaced the entire mechanical advance unit unstead of just the weights. The problem is that the pivot pin wears and replacing the weights does not replace these pins. I always use the needle bearing equipped units.
Now, to check the timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder and start the engine. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine and shine the light in the hole. Bring the engine up to about 2500 RPM. You should see a "dot" in the middle of the hole. If not, you'll have to move the breaker plate to change the timing.
Intake and carb. I've seen brand new intake clamps with new "rubber bands" leak. I always pressure test them. To do this, you must make a plate that replaces the carb and bolts on to the intake. In the middle of this plate, there should be a hose nipple. Rotate the engine until both intake valves are closed and apply about 5 PSI pressure to the intake. Spray soapy water on the intake and clamps to find the leaks. Once the leaks have been stopped, work on the carb.
If you're using the original Keihen carb, you'll probably find that the slow speed jet or the idle port is plugged up. I'd disassemble the carb and soak it in carb cleaner. Make sure all the air and fuel passageways are clear. If the idle mixture adjusting screw is frozen up, trash the carb and get another one.
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
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