Question about 2010 Suzuki Intruder M1800R
Starts and runs ok and sometimes when I turn on the ignition switch the key FI displays the engine turns over but doesn't fire. I have to turn the ignition switch off and on 5 or 6 times so it doesn't display the key FI then it turns over and starts
Hi, Sushant you may have a faulty fuel pump relay for this scenario you will need your service/owners/ manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Fuel System Pumps Relays
OEM parts for Suzuki
Posted on Dec 18, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Welcome to FixYa!
You need to replace the starter solenoid contacts, or the starter itself.
Note that the starter is UNDER the intake manifold. This is a VERY difficult job, and is not recommended to those who do not have sufficient automotive experience.
If you DO remove the intake, you MUST replace the intake manifold gaskets, or your engine will not run properly, due to air leaks at the intake mating surfaces.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
I think you answered you own question, when you said "it almost seems that the battery is dying," Drive it (while you can) to a parts store and get a FREE check of your charging system. They can tell you if it's the battery-low charge, which may indicate the alternator is bad- or a battery that is ready to retire, (and it also could be the starter, but I'm betting it's the battery). Let me know what you find.
Posted on Dec 08, 2009
Flickering is not good, and indicates a deteriorating connection of some sort.
The problem is deciding if it is in external power and ground to the dash, or internal to some chip.
Clean all the connections.
Start with the battery terminals, they should be brushed shiny and then greased.
Make sure the engine ground strap and alternator connections are cleaned and greased.
Clean and check the fuses as well, with a test light, because you can't see corrosion enough to reduce current.
It would also be useful to put a voltmeter across the battery and ensure 12.5 volts at idle, and over 14 at high rpm, but not over 14.5 volts.
The next would be the connections to the back of the dash panel, which you reach from underneath. Remember the dash also have one or more ground connections.
If all that does not turn up anything, then I would suggest getting a salvage dash panel.
Posted on Oct 09, 2010
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