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A float valve in the carbs is sticking or the float height settings are incorrect or a float has a hole in it.
Might also be worth checking your engine's valve clearances while you are at it as there could be a slight pressure leak causing blowback.
Do not use Pri on your fuel tap until this is sorted as it could cause hydraulic lock in your engine, which will wreck it. Fuel will flow through your carbs into the engine when it is parked.
This will also ruin your engine oil as the fuel will mix with it.
sounds like you have an air flow issue,remove carburreter strip andclean with carb cleaning spray and an airline. Check float height adjustment, once everything has been reassembled, refit carb, prime with fuel and JOB DONE
The description given indicates a lean fuel / air mixture. This is usually caused by rubber seals going bad between the carb and the cylinder. Air that has not gone through the carb is mixing with the air/fuel that has gone through. First check that the two air vent hoses coming from the center of the carb fit tight. Then that the carb fittings at the front of the carb are tight and that the fitting on the cylinder is tight. If the mounts are tight the seals are leaking. Replace any gaskets, "O" ring seals and rubber manifold fittings between the carb and cylinder.
There are adjustments on carbs for low speed air intake (air mixture screw)find out factory settings and reset that mixture.Sounds to me like those adjustments are out of sink.If so the bike will run very bad from idle to about 1/4 throttle then run great from there up to full throttle.this definitly sounds like carb problem.
The most common issue of bikes not starting after they have sat for a while is the carbs have gotten gummed up from the gas sitting in them. Gas breaks down and gums up the fuel and air passageways in the carbs after it sits for awhile. You need to remove and overhaul the carbs.
This is the single most common repair we see as motorcycle techs.
To be certain it is fuel related, it doesn"t hurt to spray some carb spray into the engine and see if it fires up briefly. If it does then you know its fuel related.
It is actually very simple. The carbs are mounted to the intake by 2 bolts. There is a clamp on the other end that connects the air filter to the carbs. Before removing these connections you will first turn off the gas to the carbs via the petcock at the tank. You will then remove the throttle and choke linkage, (taking note of how it is attached for reassembly purposes). You may now remove first the air filter clamps then the bolts that connect the carbs to the intake manifold at the engine end of the carbs. I suggest you buy kits to rebuild the carbs, they contain needle valve seats and gaskets. You can disasemble the carbs and soak in carb cleaner overnight..then you will blow them out with compressed air. Make sure you remove the plaque build up in the carb bowls. You can now reassemble with the new gaskets and reinstall in reverse order. Good Luck! I hope you find this to be very helpful!
It sounds like it is running too lean for some reason. First, let's assume that the normal tune up items are correct (valve tappet clearances, spark plugs are good, air filter, etc.). Also included in this assumption is that the engine has good compression (at least 140 psi on all cylinders) and that there are no air leaks between the carbs and the engine.
The aftermarket exhaust will generally require larger jetting in the carburetors - especially when combined with anything but the stock air cleaner box assembly. So, right off the bat, plan on going up to the next size larger pilot and main jets for the exhaust alone - PLUS another two to three sizes bigger if you aren't using the stock air cleaner box.
Finally, make sure the carbs that you have refitted to your bike are not clogged up from sitting with gasoline in them. It only takes a few months for the fuel to evaporate and leave behind a varnish that will require the carbs to be disassembled and cleaned.
if you had cam overlap then it wouldnt start and when you pushed the starter if would smash the valves together, if it runs ok every where else then i would say its a crab fuel problem and at that rev range it would be pilot jets as the mains dont come into use at that rev range you should take your bike to your local dyno center and have them run it up they will sort you problem