Question about 2000 kawasaki ZX-12R
Hi, Daniel make sure the regulator has a good, clean, tight ground, the systems check below is geared towards Harley Davidson so exact numbers might differ slightly with book specs on your bike but the basic principal is the same, in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
99 ZX7R Alternator Overcharging
Kawasaki NINJA ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles
Posted on Dec 10, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bad regulator?
Fuse 2 is actually the fuse from the regulator to the battery (see schematic below) - so if it's blown then you are not charging the battery. Put the correct fuse in - if it blows again, you may have a shorted regulator. Unplug both connections to the regulator: With your test meter set to 'ohms' check in turn between each of the three yellow wires in the 3-pin connector to both the red & blacks in the 4 pin connector (the two reds are already connected to each other, as are the two blacks). Also check between the reds & the blacks. None of these should readings be 'short' (zero ohms). Inspect the wiring at the three-pin connector - if the bike's harness looks charred/burned that is a sign the regulator has shorted. There is possibility it could have taken the stator with it. Incidentally, the cable that plugs into the three pin connector - that should be a replacement auxiliarry harness: the original was deemed too small gauge for the job & was replaced with the auxiliary one as a recall. You should find that cable is stand-alone from the main bike harness and you can follow it back to the stator output connection. At both ends you should find the connectors of the original harness that is 'laced' into the complete harness. If you do not find that auxiliary harness, you need to get it. You should be able to get it at no charge from Triumph if the records on your VIN show it was never supplied.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, have you checked the 30 Amps main fuse and its holder clips? It would be integrated with the starter relay. The fuse or the fuse holder may have heat related problem(s) causing it to loose conductivity when hot.The fuse may require replacement even if it tests good and/or the fuse holder would need cleaning / crimping. To locate the starter relay (main fuse), follow the battery cable from the + terminal of the battery.
Please postback results.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
mine does the samething. i spent a lot of time and money trying to fine out why. lets just say if i keep the rpm's up so will the battery.. a new stater and a new reckdafier yeah i cant spell but you know what iam talkin about if you know your bike... and make sure you ck our lil black box. i end up get everything all new to make mine work.. its a pain.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
SOURCE: if you charge the battery
Unfortunately you cannot check the regulator portion of the regulator/rectifier. The common failure on these units is the stator itself, which is located in the rear of the motor and requires motor removal to replace. If you haven't done so already, check the stator connector (3 pin connector with yellow wires located near the battery). Often these leads develop resistance and get hot and melt the wires in this area. A repair kit is available from Honda with new wires and connectors. However first I would check the stator to be sure it is ok. You can check resistance between each of the yellow wires. The readings should be fairly equal and should have no continuity to ground. If you have continuity to ground, your stator is bad. You can also check AC output between yellow wires with the motor running, you should get voltage readings from about 20VAC at idle that increase to approximately 60-90VAC as the motor is revved up.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 21, 2010
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