How do you fix buzz foot can I remove the leg cover on the buzz that has Andy wrote on his foot

The plastic foot is adjustable snd covers a bolt that is threaded into an insert in bottom of leg. Should be able to unscrew it by hand (if new), or use a pair of channel locks

get a wooden dowel pin that will fit inside leg. Push it in leg then push some newspaper around it to secure it in place. Then put wood glue
on the whole thing with dowel removed Insert dowel and let dry for about 4 hours.
While waiting get the leg socket and drill a hole in the middle so it lines up with the dowel. Countersink so the screw doesn't stick out and get in the way.
drill small hole in dowel for screw and attach leg socket.
Wouldn't hurt to put epoxy under leg socket for better adhesion.
Let set for 24 hours then enjoy.

Little confused here. Is the head the part you want to detach from an older set of legs? Do you want to remove center post from new legs or old legs. The base plate remains on the center post/ Aftre removing 3 set screws, and you want to remove the head from the baseplate and it will not turn, grap slip joint pliers or a pipe wrench, wrap the jaws with cloth ( to prevent marring of head or legs) and while holding head with wrench, have someone else turn legs

From Fisher-Price Site

If Bigfoot stops working, check the following

• Motor Stall - Was there any audible beeps from Bigfoot before he shut down: If audible beeps came from Bigfoot, a motor has stalled.
  • 1-Beep = arm motors stall
  • 2-Beeps = leg motor stall
  • 3-Beeps = head motor stall

To Fix the Motor stall:

• Remove any obstruction from Bigfoot's path.
• Turn the product off and then back on to restart the product.
• If this stall condition continues to happen when no obstruction is present, there is a malfunction with Bigfoot. Please contact Consumer Relations.

In my case I had 2 buzzes and I forced the legs into the stand position. That did the trick.

I assume you want to know how to replace a final drive belt on a Sporty. First off, be glad you ain't working on a Big Twin. Sportster's are much easier than Big Twins to replace the belt on.

First, get the bike off the ground where you can remove the rear wheel. Then, remove the rear shock on the right side. Remove the bolts from the rear master cylinder and the large nut that holds the right foot peg on. Remove the front pulley cover.

Take the new belt and install it with the right leg of the swing arm through the belt. You may can work the belt over the front drive pulley. If not, use an air wrench to remove the pulley and install the belt. Retorque the pulley to 110-120 foot pounds. Remember the threads on this nut are left handed.

Reinstall the rear wheel and shock absorber. Adjust the belt to the proper tension. Then replace the front pulley cover and rear master cylinder.

Check the rear brakes for proper operation.

Good Luck
Steve

If it's the new model then you need to follow this in reverse order for Cleaning the Quinny Buzz seats (comfort cushion and XL seat)
1. Open safety harness
2. Unfasten the shoulder belt snap and hook and remove the belt pad.
3. Loosen all snaps on the bottom of the seat
4. Loosen the Velcro straps on the bottom of the seat. Remove the belt buckle through the opening of the seat
5. Slide the cord of the seats out of the edges of the Quinny Buzz seat. Start with the foot section and work towards the head section
6. Pull the lap belt of the Quinny Buzz seat through the holes of the seats and remove the loops from the shoulder belts from the openings of the seat

Go to the ER, it sounds like a snake bite.

my buzz lightyear has a broken leg joint :( please help me!

To remove the cover of the Singer model 117 Featherweight II sewing machine:

Referring to the diagram below:

1.Remove the face plate by removing the single screw fastening it to the left end of the chassis.

2.To make things easier, remove the presser foot (raise the presser foot and release the presser foot from its holder by pressing the black plastic foot release found at the rear of the foot holder, the foot will fall off.)

3.Remove the plastic see-thru slide plate that covers the bobbin. Remove the bobbin, and remove the two screws that secure the needle plate.Lift off the needle plate.Don't mess with the feed dog screws( Look closely at the" bobbin case assembly" and note how it is installed. The black thing you are looking at is the assembly. The chrome thing that looks like a hook is a fixed "bobbin case stop plate" , the case assembly fits under that and is supported by the hook race. Approximately 180 degrees from the fixed stop is a spring stop- note that the bobbin case assembly is free to rotate/ wiggle approximately 1/8" between these two points, and it is seated evenly in the hook race.Remember what you see so you can reinstall it later)Remove the bobbin case assembly with your fingers.

4.Remove the detachable tool case from the front of the machine by sliding it to the left.

5.The face cover is fastened to the chassis with four screws- two on the bottom which also pass through the bottom of the rear cover, one behind the face plate just above the lower thread guide, and one on the front of the machine behind the tool case. Remove the screws on the front and the left end, and loosen the two screws on the bottom ( if you are planning to remove the rear cover go ahead and remove the bottom screws completely.) There is no need to remove the screws that hold the auxiliary leg bar.

6.The screws are out- HOW DO I GET THE COVER OFF!?!
There is a hidden locking tab located just beneath the mylar seal that warns you to disconnect the machine before servicing and to close the cover before operating the machine. It is located just to the right of the needle plate and directly over the seam that separates the front and back covers. Don't remove the seal just slice it with a razor blade or utility knife right along the seam, make sure you cut all the way through the seal.

Working from the needle plate opening, take a medium sized flat-bladed screw driver and slide it under the rear cover just behind the seam (see photo) carefully twist the blade in a manner that both separates and lifts the rear cover off the front cover- it takes quite a bit of force and it will let loose with a loud snap. After the locking tab is loose the front cover is easily separated and lifted off the chassis.

unlocking the case:


a closeup of the tab on the front cover


7.The rear cover is held on by three screws. There is one through the back at the handle recess, and there are two screws accessible from the front after the front cover is removed. Lower the presser foot lever, pull the screws and the rear cover will come off easy. Good luck with your repairs.

Andy, I'm thinking the buzz is from the deflection coil (yoke) on the neck of the tube or the power supply. Probably not the high voltage as you can hear the "buzz". If it's really that annoying, you can take a length of rubber tubing (no metal) and listen to the buzz coming from the chassis kind of like a stethoscope. STAY AWAY FROM THE HIGH VOLTAGE, please. The yellow picture sounds like a blue chroma failure. A tube can be rejuvinated if need be but that's a job for a pro. Hope this helps.