Cr125r 2001 cant start after changing piston and cylinder
I have a cr125r 2001 got through changing piston plus rings, cylinder drain any gas inside crank, clean carbs, new spark plug, has lotta spark, its getting enough through, and also i need info on who would be able to sell 2 cr125r engines out there =-} email me
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: cr125r 2001 cant start after changing piston and...
Hi mate you need to adjust the float if theres to much fuel going through you need to take the float out and adjust it to the manual specifications but remember slot the pin out and take the float out but watch the little valve which stops the fuel where the little valve is hanging from that is the part you need to adjust
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
every time the piston goes down it has a vacuum in the cylinder and should draw air through the filter into the cylinder if the air filter is restricted it raise the vacuum and start drawing oil around the rings into the compression chamber which gets pushed into the air tank. The more wore out the piston rings are the more this will happen so if you clean your air filter and drain your tank and it still has oil in the tank it is time to re ring your unit. Also air gets real hot as you compress it so hot air in a tank that is in a cold area will sweat on the inside of the tank so some of what you are seeing is water.
there are only four possibilities left:
1: valves are not fully seating - adjust rocker arm / cam
2: piston rings are bad - replace rings
3: holes in pistons - replace
4: cylinders out of round - most complicated repair, bore / machine cylinders and replace piston rings with oversized rings.
of course you could just have 'gunk' on the valves preventing full closure........
Your rings on your piston cylinder provide a seal between the piston and the cylinder wall. If the rings leak, gas from the cylinder can leak into the crankcase. Plus you will lose compression. May need to take it in and have a pro look at it.
This blower is fuel sensitive! Gas and oil mixture has to be correct. Too much oil will cause carbon buildup in the cylinder. In my case my blower would not start after several uses this season. I checked EVERYTHING....spark, fuel delivery, air filter.....then checked the flywheel which has no separate key....the key is cast into the flywheel. Read somewhere about the carbon buildup so took the cylinder off and viola! The piston ring was firmly stuck in the piston groove plus the cylinder was carbon scored. I tried to gently pry the piston ring free but it was so firmly stuck, it broke. Not worth fixing. Take the muffler off and you will be able to see the piston ring....use a small pick or something to see if the ring is free. If not, proceed to tear down or throw out. I was able to see scoring on the piston and determine my ring was stuck this way. Remember the elements needed for successful ignition...fuel/air...spark....compression. Stuck ring = low compression. The last time you ran the blower the ring became stuck...the engine continued to run because of the engine rpm's but when you try to start at low RPM's, no luck.
There is quite a bit of work re-boring cylinder blocks, you will need over-sized piston(s) which has to be turned down to the correct size, plus over-sized rings. Doing it properly involves a lot of money, time and expense like valve work and checking the bearings, planeing the head. They used to weld pistons to make them over-sized in NZ. When i arrived in NZ in the 1950's they had lots of old chugers (model A's) on the road from the 1920', usually American made. NZ People were fantastic engineers, they made and adapted parts from scratch to keep these cars on the road.
Very likely, you have damaged the piston, cylinder, and rings from lack of lubrication. Remove the carburetor and check the piston skirt and cylinder wall for heavy scoring. When this occurs, the normal seals that comprise 2-stroke valving between the piston and the cylinder have been destroyed for the most part. If you could get it firing, it would be extremely hard to start and keep running plus the parts become extremely noisy while it runs. The fix is to replace the cylinder, piston, and rings, but you must weigh the parts (and labor) costs against the price of another saw. Hope this helps!
sounds like you might have broken a piston ring. Sometimes a small piece will break-off and cause the loss of compression and if you look down the cylinder you wont see it. But it's enough to cause a problem.
Take your vehicle back to your mechanic, and have him perform a DRY, then a WET compression test. Please provide both readings back to me. In the meantime, ask him what it would cost you to him replace the piston rings. This is your problem. The 2 tests will simply verify me thinking.