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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is no need for a resistor of any kind. The light should be run with the feed coming from the power breaker and the ground side connected to the “A” post of the Generator. Resistors were added by some companies to prevent the light from flickering at low RPMs. If the Generator is working properly there is no need for a resistor. Be sure to polarize the generator properly as failing to polarize the generator is the most common cause of a Gen light that won't go out.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
Most Ironhead sprotsters were pretty close as to the wiring. If you'll contact me directly, I'll scan a diagram for a '79 in and send it to you. Contact me directly at wd4ity at bellsouth.net. Good Luck, Steve
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
To adjust the valves on your Ironhead Sportster, first collapse all the pushrod tubes, remove the spark plugs, and get the rear wheel off the ground. Put the transmission in fourth gear. Now, use the rear wheel to turn the engine.
To adjust the valves, bring the front cylinder to Top Dead Center. Use a common plastic drinking straw down in the spark plug hole to make sure the piston is at Top Center. Make sure both tappets for the front cylinder are all the way down. Now, loosen the lock nut slightly and turn the adjuster to make the tappet longer. You want to make it just long enough so that you can't turn it with your fingers. Gradually back down on the tappet until you can turn the pushrod with your fingers. Lock the locknut down when done. Now do the other tappet.
Once you've done the front cylinder, turn the engine using the rear wheel until the rear piston comes to Top Center. Always turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. Adjust the two tappet the same way as you did the front cylinder tappets.
When finished, put the transmission in neutral, lower the rear wheel, put the plugs back in, and close up the pushrod tubes.
These tappets set to Zero Backlash, none. Therefore this must be done on a completely cold engine. When the engine starts up and as it warms up, the cylinders and head "grow" due to the heat expansion properties of the metal. As they grow, you pick up valve lash and the valves will clatter a bit. This is where the old saying came from, "You can tell it's a Harley from a mile away by the way the engine sounds. You can tell it's an Ironhead from a half mile away from the valve clatter". If you get the valves too tight, when the weather cools down in the winter, you could wind up with a valve standing open just enough to make the bike impossible to start due to low starting compression. It's better to have the valves a bit loose and have them clatter than have them too tight making the engine difficult to start.
Posted on May 08, 2010
Ok, let's start by identifying the timing mark you need to look for. Raise the bike up and get the rear wheel off the ground, shift the transmission into fourth gear, remove the spark plugs, and the timing plug. You'll need a common everyday drinking straw, use nothing else. We are going to insert the straw into the front cylinder spark plug hole to bring the piston to top dead center. The drinking straw is made of plastic and will bend without breaking or damaging anything. A pencil or metal object may break leaving a piece in the cylinder in which case you'll have to pull the head to get it out or a metal object that could damage the piston.
Now, with the straw in front cylinder spark plug hole, bump the rear wheel in the normal direction of rotation. When the drinking straw starts to rise, continue bumping the rear wheel until the straw stops rising and possibly starts to go back down. Look into the timing hole and see if you see a mark, best as I can remember, it's a vertical line. If not, bump the rear tire backwards and forwards just a bit until you find it. This is the Top Dead Center timing mark. The mark you want to use to time your engine is the Front Cylinder Advanced Timing mark. Slowly start bumping the rear wheel in the reverse direction. The drinking straw will begin to go back down. Once the drinking straw has gone down about a half inch, you should see a "dot" on the crank at the lower part of the hole. This is the timing mark you'll be looking for.
With that known, shift the bikes transmission back to neutral and lower the bike. Connect a timing light to the front cylinder and the battery. You can get a clear timing sight glass and put it in the hole but I've found that they don't work well. A device called a "Clean Time" is best, just push it into the hole so that it has a slight wiping effect on the flywheel. Or, you could use nothing at all in the hole. To use nothing in the hole, insert the timing plug loosely. Start the engine, bring it to about 2500 RPM, and take the plug out of the hole and shine the light in the hole quickly. Beware that with nothing in the hole, even at low RPM or engine cranking speed, there is a tremendous amount of pressure being blown out of the timing hole. DO NOT GET YOUR EYES OR FACE IN FRONT OF THE HOLE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING OR TURNING WITH THE STARTER. It can blow oil in your eyes and that ain't exactly a pleasant feeling. Be careful.
If you can't see the timing mark, rotate the timing plate on the other side of the engine just slightly one way or the other until you find the mark. If you have an adjustable timing light, turn the adjustment to see if the timing is advanced, When you move the plate on the other side of the bike, turning it clockwise advances the timing. It's best to have two people and remember to turn the timing plate slowly and in small increments.
Posted on Mar 15, 2011
You don't. This ain't an old Chevy or Mopar product. Your Ironhead may only hold four pounds of oil pressure idling on a hot day. But, the Harley oilling system is a high volume low pressure system. The bottom end of your Ironhead is built using roller bearings instead of shell type "insert" bearing like in a car or the foreign built bikes. In between the rollers, there is nothing to maintain the oil pressure on the system and the oil flows freely. As long as you've got a good "return" of oil coming back to the oil tank, your engine is fine.
Posted on Aug 15, 2011
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