Question about 2007 Harley Davidson FLSTF Softail Fat Boy
Hi, Patricia for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can not find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $ you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Good luck and have a nice day.
Need help replacing 06 fatboy battery Harley Davidson Forums
Motorcycle Repair How to Replace Battery on Harley Davidson Motorcycle
How 6ya Works 6ya A must have !!! Totally "FREE"
Posted on Dec 04, 2016
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 fat boy battery
Its under the seat, all u have to do is remove the seat, remove the negative connection at the frame and the positive at the terminal, unlatch the battery strap and lift it out
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
i'm no expert on new Hogs but try this.In car alarms disconnecting the neg.lead resets the computer.when you reconnect the neg.lead the alarm goes off.In your case turn the alarm off by turning the key on.Your alarm light keeps blinking like it's still on because it is.The blinking and ticking should time out so your battery won't go dead but the anti theft feature should still work.locks out the ign. or locks fuel pump if your injected.Since your battery saver doesn't work the system might be shot.If you have a chip in the key the system may not recognize it ,doesn't know it's you.Try unlocking the bike with the remote if it has one.I vote for the bad system,pull it out an wire around it.Good luck.
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
You don't if you can get the bike off the ground high enough to allow the wheel to come straight down. But, I'd just take the caliper off. It only has two bolts holding it on.
Posted on Apr 16, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 28, 2015 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy
FIRST remove the front wheel and brake caliper.
SECOND remove the front fender
THIRD remove the slider tube cap, spacer and oil seal from the top of one fork side.
FOURTH loosen the pinch bolt and pull the fork side from the brackets.
FIFTH repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the other fork side.
Jun 17, 2014 | 2007 Harley Davidson FLSTF Softail Fat Boy
May 05, 2014 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...
May 02, 2014 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...
Jul 04, 2013 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy
Jan 15, 2013 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy
Aug 05, 2012 | 2007 Harley Davidson FLSTF Softail Fat Boy
May 09, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy
Apr 04, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...
29 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: