Yamaha 650 special valve cover screw will not tighten
When tightening the valve cover it looks as though the area it the double sided screw sits is threaded on the engine side. The weird part is I can get it tight without the cover and new gasket but when I place them on, it just gets to a point then spins????? I am not sure how to fix this, I do not have a tool and die set. Oil leaks out of this area due to not getting the nut tight enough on the valve cover. Thanks.
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Re: Yamaha 650 special valve cover screw will not tighten
It needs a ne thread [ helicoil]
or you can try machining doen the cover so the bolt goes down lower & use thread lock aswell
just get it to a point where it feels firm or youll end up pulling the thread again ok
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Allow the car to cool. Disconnect the battery terminal. Remove the right side vent screen top extension. Disconnect the ignition coil with power transistor and its wiring and brackets.
Disconnect the left hand side coil wires and spark plug wires. Remove the spark plug wires, valve cover bolts and the valve cover. Unplug the electrical connections from the intake manifold runner control actuator. Unfasten the actuator retaining the screws, right bank heated oxygen sensor front and rear.
Remove the heated positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve. Remove the heated oxygen sensor plug and the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor. Disconnect the ignition coil with power transistor and its wiring and bracket. Remove the valve cover bolts, the valve cover and the old valve cover gasket. Clean the valve cover seating area with automotive engine cleaner and place the new gasket in the gasket seating area.
Replace the parts that were removed and disconnected by reversing the steps. Replace the valve cover gasket and tighten the bolts, in sequence, ensuring not to over tighten. Put back the ignition coil with power transistor and its wiring and bracket, the heated positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve, the heated oxygen sensor plug and the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor.
Add oil to the car. Start the car and let it run at idle for a while to check for leaks..
The side gasket is starting to leak & will need to be replaced eventually. You can try leaning the bike over opposite of the leak...clean all the oil off...remove the 1 bolt that is leaking, clean and dry it, put some oil resistant rtv sealant on the threads and tighten it back up. check the other case bolts in a criss-cross pattern to make sure none are loose...let it cure for a few hours, and give it a whirl...hope this helps
The cover looks easy, but it is a special fit problem. There is a screw device with a very small pip which fits into the chain bar on the side. When you put the chain and bar on together, you have to adjust this BACK toward the sprocket with a flat screw driver. Now you can fit the bar and chain in with the chain around the sprocket and very loose. Place the cover on after visually seeing a passage for the chain oil from the angled plate - through some slots in the side, though the side hole in the bar, and up through that invisible inside drilled hole between the chain groove and the bar side hole. Move the cover back and forth before tightening. Ensure that the screw pip device is snapped into the bar so that you can move the bar forwards and back using the flat screw driver. Now tighten to less than hand tight. Adjust the bar forward so you can just see three bottom guide teeth in the chain when you pull on the middle of the chain from the bottom of the bar. Now you have the right tension on all those sharp links and you can give the cover bolts a good tightening, not to crack the plastic or metal though. Be sure to clean all the dust out of the band area with a tooth brush as this can lock up the band and not let the chain revolve at all - making it act as if the chain brake is on. Also be aware of the tiny roll/spring pin in there which wants to fly out when cleaning. It controls how the band works when you trip the chain brake.
Ok.. with the cover off the clutch you notice the screw and the pin that is suppose to go into the hole.. with the chain on the bar back the screw until the pin sits in the hole of the bar.. The chain should be lose you will see the chain dangle at the bottom of the bar.. put the cover back on with it lose.. hand tighten the two nuts that hold the cover on. with the bar in hand and you pulling the bar up make sure the two nuts are on tight enough so the bar does not move but dont over tighten it. tighten the screw you will notice the chain starting to move, and start to tighten up.. once the chain is in the grove of the bar grab the chain and move the chain with your hand to make sure you have not over tighten it. if the chain moves freely and is not lose ( you can also double check how tight it is by grabbing the chain below the bar and letting it go if it snaps back into the bar and doesnt hang there you are where you need to be.) tighten the two nuts up on the cover and start up the saw. Run the saw to make sure everything is all set and nothing is lose before cutting.. If the chain never get to tighten up you need a new chain. buy a new chain and follow the steps again. let me know if you have any questions
On this valve the hot/cold in reverse is easy enough to fix, but the faucet dripping at the handle is another issue. To reverse the hot and cold, turn off the house water, relieve the pressure by opening a nearby faucet. Once the water stops, remove the handle and faucet cover so you can see the valve. then the four screws that are visible need to be removed. Mark one of the screw holes with a crayon or pencil and then remove by pulling straight out. Once out, inspect the main o-ring right behind where it sits against the valve, (if this is damaged, it might be why the handle area is leaking) then turn the whole assembly clockwise 180 degrees then insert straight back in and insert screws. Tighten screws until snug. Turn water back on before installing cover and handle to check for leaks. If no leaks are found, install cover and handle and check for proper position of hot and cold. If there are leaks, tighten screws in clockwise rotation tightening each screw a quarter turn, then moving to the next one until dripping stops. If dripping is from center of stem, where the handle attaches, you will need to contact Price Pfister to request a replacement. They are very good to work with. Good luck.
Inlet .0024 (two and a half thou.)
Exhaust .006" (six thou.)
(6) Set the valves:
Set the valves on the cylinder on the COMPRESSION stroke. Put the
wrench on the locknut on top of the valve, and turn it anti-clockwise.
be tight. Turn it about one quarter turn, and keep the wrench on it.
the crescent wrench turn the square headed screw either in or out
whether you need more or less clearance. We are talking about fractions
turn here. Then lightly lock the locknut, holding the square headed
the crescent wrench so it doesn't move, and check the clearance. Repeat
it's exactly right. When it's exactly right, tighten the locknut.
(7) Rotate the engine one revolution exactly:
Shine the flashlight into either sparkplug hole and rotate the engine
so that the piston goes down once and comes back up. Stop when it's at
(8) Now do the other cylinder:
Check the gap and set if necessary the other cylinder's valves
Repeat steps (5) and (6) for the other cylinder.
(9) Button it up:
Replace the valve adjustment covers, making sure to keep the gaskets
o-rings in place, the bike will have one or the other.
That's all there is to it!
Its seems like fuel starvation ....blow(compressed air) the main and primary jets of the carburator and recheck the float level.
Set the air-mixture screw too.
Standard procedure ..tighten it all the way in ....slowly making sure you go slow as not to damage the tip of the screw and then open it 2 and half turns plus or minus.
Hope this helps!
There are different handles depending on serial number. The older of the two is at the top of the door. The screws are covered with a magnetic trim piece. You can remove this by putting tape on the chrome and pull up. You can then tighten the nuber two phillips head screws. The newer model is on the door itself. These are held on with small set screws accessed from the bottom of the handle. You may get by just tightening the set screws. If not you need to remove the handle by removing the set screws. You can then tighten the standoff and reatach the handle. For the 632 same procedure except it will be on the side.