Question about 2001 Buell X1 lightning

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Im replacing the belt on my 2000 buell x1 need to know the torque specs on rear axle shaft and down tube support bracket for the rear swingarm

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Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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Which way does the rear left spacer on a 2006 ultra classic go?


Locate the wheel in the rear swingarm and slide the wheel far enough forward to slip the belt over the sprocket and then slide the wheel backwards again. It is very important not to bend or fold the belt backward or into loops smaller than 5 inches (127 mm) in diameter because sharp bending can weaken the belt and cause it to fail. THEN seat the caliper on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm. THEN position the wheel in the swingarm, so that the brake disc is centered between the brake pads. THEN coat the axle with grease. THEN with the larger OD on the outboard side, hold the external spacer between the rear swingarm and the belt sprocket and slide the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the external spacer, and the belt sprocket into the wheel hub and when the axle emerges from the hub on the brake disc side of the wheel, push the axle through the short external spacer, the caliper bracket and the right side of the rear swingarm. THEN rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside. THEN with the thumb down and the cam forward, install the adjuster cam onto the end of the axle. THEN apply a thin film of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to the inboard side of the cone nut avoiding contact with the threads and install the cone nut on the axle finger tight. THEN get a torque wrench with a 1/2 inch drive head and an axle torque adapter such as (HD-47925) which simplifies the belt adjustment procedure by allowing the cone nut to be properly tightened without having to remove the right side muffler and can also be used to loosen the cone nut, as well as rotate the weld nut on the left side. The torque adapter MUST be only be installed on the torque wrench at 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench because if it is not 90 degrees perpendicular to the torque wrench it will act as a torque multiplier and the cone nut will not be torqued to the torque specification set on the torque wrench but it will be over tightened. Which will cause bearing etc. damage. THEN insert the torque adapter tool up between rear wheel and muffler and onto the cone nut on the outboard side for best clearance from /with the muffler. Verify that THE adjuster cam just contacts THE weld nub on both sides of the rear swingarm. And if necessary, push the wheel forward slightly to get it where you need it to be. THEN snug the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm). THEN check deflection at the loosest spot in the belt using a belt tension gauge such as the (HD-35381A) gauge and apply 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) of force at the midpoint of the bottom belt strand. Belt deflection with the bike upright with the wheel in the air should be three sixteenths to one 1 quarter inch or 4.8 to 6.4 mm. Belt deflection with the bike on its kickstand without rider or luggage and 10 psi (69 kPa) in the Rear Shocks should be one quarter to five sixteenths inches or 6.4 to 7.9 mm

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With the larger outside diameter on the outboard side hold the external spacer between the belt sprocket and the rear swingarm and then slide the axle through left side of the swingarm, the external spacer and the belt sprocket into wheel hub and then when the axle emerges from the hub on the brake disc side of the wheel, push the axle through the short external spacer, the brake caliper bracket and the right side of the rear swingarm.

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To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler,on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

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1 Answer

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There is one lowering shock out there for the pre 2002 buell tube bikes but it drops the bike 1" and that's it. It is VERY hard to lower these bikes.

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1 Answer

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You do not remove the swingarm to change the belt. You need to loosen the rear axle and slide the rear wheel forward to remove tension. there are some plastic covers that need to be removed to get to the front pulley tho.

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1 Answer

Need a new rear belt for 2000 buell x1 what size do I need


It is the same size as the Harley Sportster, but I recommend you use a belt off the 2010 Buell Firebolt, it fits and is a stronger design.

Aug 25, 2011 | 2001 Buell X1 lightning

1 Answer

Front and rear wheel removal and belt alignment


To remove the wheels, you remove the axles. Make sure you mark or make a drawing of where the spacers go.

On the front wheel, it is advisable to remove brake calipers by removing the two bolts that hold each one on the lower fork slider. This makes it easier to get the wheel back on but it's not absolutely necessary.

On the rear wheel, you may have to remove part of the exhaust system to get the axle out. Once you have the axle out, you cal lower the wheel move it slightly forward. Take the belt guards off and you can work the belt from around the pulley. Do not bend the belt into a radius of less than 4" or you'll damage the inner strands of the belt and cause premature breakage.

To adjust the belt tension, you need to have the belt adjusted so there there is 1/2" of up and down play when you apply 10 pounds of pressure to the bottom of the belt. Harley sells and inexpensive gauge for doing this job. The rear wheel must be in alignment with the swingarm. I'm not sure if the road king has the dimple in the side of the swingarm or not like the Wide Glide does. Harley is so bad about changing this type of thing that it's almost impossible to keep up with. Just make sure the adjuster bolts on the end of the swingarm are the same length when you get the belt tension correct. Tighten the axle nuts when finished.

Front axle torque - 50-60 ft. lbs.
Rear axle torque - 60-70 ft. lbs.

Good Luck
steve

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2 Answers

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check out badweatherbikers.com I am sure you will find what you are looking for there.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2001 Buell X1 lightning

1 Answer

How to change to rear tire


To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler, on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

Feb 27, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

How to change a belt


1.Support bike with rear wheel off ground 2.Loosen rear axle pinch bolt 3.Undo rear axle approx 15 turns (to release belt tension it's got a taper thing inside there--seems unlikely but it's true.) 4.Remove swingarm brace and other impediments ,

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