Started to get hard to start then got worse over 3
First would not turn over tried new solinoid dealer siad 4 weeks to look at put start switch and wire into relay ran fine for 4 weeks started to get hard to start then got worse over 3 week period has some fire to plugs spray starting fluid in air cleaner still will not start mechanic siad orig problem proberly saftey switch on kickstand or clutch saftey
Re: started to get hard to start then got worse over 3
You need a cheap multi meter, measure the resistance on the wires going to the switches, with the clutch in, and with the stand up the resistance should be very low, if it is high then that switch is the problem. Also check the earth (negative) from the battery to the frame, if this is corroded your bike will be hard to start
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Your Vehicle Has Pass Key 2 Anti Theft System--There Is A Theft Deterrent Relay That Activates Starter (under right side of dash) Most Times Problem Is Found Either In Key--No Or Bad Chip In Key--Or 1 or Both Grey Wires Going To Key Switch Broken Inside Insulation. Check That Someone Has Not Had New Key Made--Non OEM Keys Won't Work--If Not Sure, Take Key To GM Dealer And They Have Key Code Checker. The Only Place To Get New Key Is From Dealer--They Check Code On Old Key And Order One With Same Code-Then Cut To Fit Your Vehicle--When Key Is Inserted Into Switch Signal from Chip Is Sent To Body Control Module Through Small Grey Wires Allowing Relay Activation.
NOTE: If Key Does Not Read And You Don't Have Original One New OEM Key Has To Be Ordered Along with Replacement Body Control Module--They Can Only Be Key Code Programmed ONCE. If Key Checks Out OK --Check 2 Little Grey Wires Going To Key Switch For Breaks--Usually Breaks Inside Insulation--Making It Hard To See--The 2 Wires Flex Every Time Key Switch Is Rotated ---Now Relay Check--4 Wires--1 Yellow--1 Brown 1
Black/Yellow-1 Purple--- Yellow From Key Switch Hot In Start Mode-Brown-Hot In Start Mode (comes Through range switch in console or clutch switch---Black/Yellow To BCM (Relay Ground) Purple To Starter Solinoid When Relay Activated. Now That We Have Covered The Hard Things Let's Start With Basics--Momentarily Bridge Battery Wire To Purple Wire At Starter Solinoid --Starter Should Turn--IF IT DOES NOT--Bad Starter--Bad Starter Solinoid--Or Bad Battery Connections--Or Bad Battery (internal burnt strap)
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Well i dont know for sure but in the past it has been due to a few things like the starter solinoid on the starter motor either wire coming off or loose ,or the spring in the ing/switch isent making contact so next time try banging on the steering wheel 2 or 3 times and if its ok after get the ign switch changed,, yes just bang the s/wheel hard.
hi, this is the solinoid contacts (BURNED OUT). there are 2 parts to the solinoid (HEAVY SWITCH) connects BATTERY to STARTER MOTOR. the other part of the SOLINOID is IGNITION KEY TURN TO SOLINOID the wiring to this part is working. (by changing the solinoid this will work). thank you gerry
PO741=tcccs solinoid.I had to replace one in my old ladys car.it used to shudder real bad also when the converter would lock up and throw the PO741 code..not real hard to replace and only about $40.00 for the solinoid from the dealer.
sounds like it could have a blown solinoid fuse check fuses,sometimes the solinoil fuse is located on the solinoid itself.Could be A shot sidestand switch or clutch cut out switch.to check solinoid & starter motor.Place a jumper lead on Batt. posative,other end to solinoid if it tries to start check previously mentioned switches.If still nothing,conect to other side of solinoid,if motor sounds solinoid is the problem
Hope this helps Regards Andrew Porrelli
I had the same ignition problem go on for about a year before it finally died. I had it diagnosed at one dealer, told it was a BCM & Egnition Switch, so I thought I would save money by the oart and di it my self. Dealer cost was $1000.00, my cost ( I thought) was $300.00 for part and a reprogramming fee of $95.00., so i thought. After getting everything in, car still would not start cause I called another dealer and I was told that the car will not start without the BCM being programmed. I had to have the car towed $88.00 bucks. Long story short, my car was mis-diagnosed by dealer number one and fixed by dealer number 2. My starting problem was 3 little wires inside the car under neath the brake pedal that were getting wear and tear and corrosion because of Pontiacs brilliant location for these 3 little wires. My final bill for everything still ended costing me $1000.00. I should have been smarter and had more that one dealer look at my car.
Not all replacement parts are good. I would guess that the new ignition switch is bad. Its also possible that the wiring harness is loose where its connected to the ignition switch. You could try jiggling the wires.