2001 HD swingarm adjustments for reinstalling rear wheel

hey Dominico,
This is the way PROFESSIONAL mechanics do a chain/sprocket check and drive chain alignment and tension.. Proper chain tension is very important to the life of your chain and sprockets and performance of your bike. First, you need to check to see if the chain/sprockets need replacing. (Chain and sprockets are ALWAYS replaced as a set (-all-3)..if you replace a chain on worn sprockets.. the chain will stretch out QUICK.. and if you put new sprockets with a worn chain.. the sprockets will be worn out QUICK too!!) ...To do this..the bike needs to be on the center stand or bike stand...NOT on the side stand...
...now...--remove the chain guard-- next..Sprocket check time - take one hand and squeeze the chain (grab the chain above and below the swingarm) at the point between the axle and the swingarm bolt.. as hard as possible. to take all the slack out of the chain and put the tension completely around the back sprocket.. while you are squeezing the chain as hard and tight as possible.. - with your other hand - try to lift/pull the chain off the rear sprocket.. IF you can pull the chain off enough to see if there is a .200" or 5mm max. gap between the chain and sprocket - under the chain... or MORE THAN A HALF a tooth groove under the chain..or the chain pulls up more than two teeth...OR the teeth on either sprocket are "pointed thin" or rounded inside....you need to replace the chain/sprockets.
...ONCE you are sure the chain/sprockets are good..its time to CORRECTLY align and adjust the chain tension. Loosen the axle nut.. DO NOT remove it.. now - tap it gently to make sure its loose...loose the chain adjuster nuts.. back them off a good bit, but do not remove them...you may,also need to loose the rear brake caliper mounts ..you should be able to move the rear wheel forward and backward with your hand.(this is to assure you have sufficient "looseness" to make the proper adjustment...NOW - pull the rear tire backwards until it stops.. - run the adjuster nut(s) until they are just snug..ALIGNMENT - This is CRITICAL - (did you remove the chain guard yet?) - do that now. You must be able to see down the entire length of the chain (above the swingarm)..The chain MUST RUN IN A STRAIGHT LINE!! .. The little marks on the swingarm are just "guides".. never use them as perfect.. the only way to assure CORRECT ALIGNMENT is a visual check of the chain to make sure its in a straight line!!!! - ...ANY bend, crook, or mis-alignment will cause premature wear and tear, and make it harder for your engine to make it turn. - Now - Rotate the wheel and find the tightest point of the chain... there is one, and its normal... LEAVE the tight point located between the two sprockets on the top of the swingarm. This is where you will "feel" for the correct tension.
The biggest thing most people miss when adjusting the tension is having the AXEL/NUT and the SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT and the COUNTERSHAFT C/L (front sprocket shaft) IN A STRAIGHT LINE - ALL THREE ARE ON THE SAME PLANE!!!!!
. NOW, You may have to get a buddy to help pull the swing arm up.. (I use a tie down strap through the rear wheel and over the seat pulled tight enough to make AND KEEP the STRAIGHT LINE!!)
..Once you have established the straight line - --- - --- - and MADE SURE the chain is RUNNING STRAIGHT on both sprockets.. NOW _ its time to adjust the tension. There WILL be a tightest and loosest point of the chain..(normal).. you MUST adjust the tension using the TIGHTEST point of the chain....set the tension so you can move the chain up and down (total movement) about 1 3/8 inch to a max of 2 inches!! Once you have established the chain is straight and the tension is correct, its time to TIGHTEN EVERYTHING in order... start with snugging the axle nut.. then snug the adjuster nuts more..-- DOUBLE CHECK you chain alignment.. now - tighten the axle - TIGHT!!... tighten the adjuster nuts..lock down the lock nuts.. tighten the caliper.. TRIPLE CHECK the alignment... double check the tension...double check all the nuts... install the chain guard... REMOVE whatever you use the keep the straight line straight..

TRIPLE CHECK ALL NUTS!!! NOW ROTATE THE REAR WHEEL AND CHECK FOR BINDING AND MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS WORKING CORRECTLY AND NOT TOO LOOSE..
KNOW you have done a job correctly!! (I am a factory trained mechanic, race engine builder, port work guy, race tuner.)..
GREAT JOB!!

First off the wheel will be offset. as well the belt will run on the outside edge of the pulley. It won't run in the middle. Just like if you rotate the wheel in reverse the belt will travel inward on the pulley and remain there until you run it forward again. It part of Harley's design. Also you can't really go off of the adjuster bolts as a guide. They tend to be different. Sometimes the covers just need to be forced away from the wheel too. If the adjustments seem correct then I would try re adjusting the covers or make sure they are spaced out right as well.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

To remove the wheels, you remove the axles. Make sure you mark or make a drawing of where the spacers go.

On the front wheel, it is advisable to remove brake calipers by removing the two bolts that hold each one on the lower fork slider. This makes it easier to get the wheel back on but it's not absolutely necessary.

On the rear wheel, you may have to remove part of the exhaust system to get the axle out. Once you have the axle out, you cal lower the wheel move it slightly forward. Take the belt guards off and you can work the belt from around the pulley. Do not bend the belt into a radius of less than 4" or you'll damage the inner strands of the belt and cause premature breakage.

To adjust the belt tension, you need to have the belt adjusted so there there is 1/2" of up and down play when you apply 10 pounds of pressure to the bottom of the belt. Harley sells and inexpensive gauge for doing this job. The rear wheel must be in alignment with the swingarm. I'm not sure if the road king has the dimple in the side of the swingarm or not like the Wide Glide does. Harley is so bad about changing this type of thing that it's almost impossible to keep up with. Just make sure the adjuster bolts on the end of the swingarm are the same length when you get the belt tension correct. Tighten the axle nuts when finished.

Front axle torque - 50-60 ft. lbs.
Rear axle torque - 60-70 ft. lbs.

Good Luck
steve

i had the same problem with my 03 ultra classic, i did a vehicle aligment and that took care of it, very simple to do

The wheel alignment is fixed and cannot be changed between the front wheel and the rear wheel. Also, different models of bikes may or may not have an offset between the front and rear wheels.

The only alignment that you have any control over is the alignment of the rear wheel inside the swingarm. It must run parallel to the swingarm. The way you get this is by adjusting the rear wheel to where the length of the adjuster bolts are the same on both sides of the swingarm when the belt is at the proper tension.

Good Luck
steve

The first thing I'd do is have the wheels and tires balanced. When they spin them up, they can tell if there is any wheel "truing" problems as well.

Then, they or you must make sure the rear wheel is in alignment within the swing arm. Make sure that the adjuster bolts on either side of the swingarm are adjusted to about the same length.

Good luck
Steve

When adjusting the rear wheel, pay close attention to the adjusters. They should be pretty close to the same on either side. If one adjuster is adjusted considerably different from the other, I'd suspect the wheel is not properly aligned within the swingarm. If you can get to a place where the swingarm is shaped the same on both sides, you can measure from the inner face of the swingarm to the tire on each side. A tool is made to precisely align the rear wheel with the front wheel but you must know the amount of "offset" in the front end if there is any. This requires a service manual. So, the "average" way is the method I've described above. Rear axle torque 60 foot pounds.

Easy as pie. Put bike on center stand or use swingarm stand. Remove nut from rear axle. Remove pinch bolt from rear axle, and pull axle out. Take spacer from between frame and rear brake. Remove brake strut, and brake caliper. Pull wheel out of final drive, and lower to floor. You might have to let the air out of the tire to get it out from between the final drive and swingarm. After changing the rear tire inflate it to seat the bead, deflate to get back in place, then reinflate. Put some grease on the splines in the final drive before reinstalling the wheel, this will make it easier for the next change.

Unless someone has changed a spacer or something , the rear wheel should be centered with the frame, not necessarily the swingarm. The rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the right side and there is a spacer on the left side. This spacer on the left side should be just short enough to get into the swingarm without a lot of excess space once installed. You should not be squeezing your swingarm more than 0.125 inch or so.

Now, there are other things that will cause the tire to rub the final drive belt. Too wide tire will do this. The '94 models used the old style wide belts unlike the narrower belt used by the later models. If you install a like is on a later model, it's too wide and will probably rub. The next reason for tire belt interference is the rear tire not being adjusted correctly and it is not under the bike straight. Adjust the rear wheel by measuring the length of the adjuster bolt relative to the axle. These measurements should be the same on both sides of the swingarm. If you can't do that, find something about six feet long that you can use as a straight edge to check the alignment of the rear wheel to the front wheel. Keep in mind that there is an offset designed into the front wheel. Just make sure that the rear wheel is as straight relative to the frame as you can get it.

Even with all this stuff correctly set, the final drive belt will be close to the side of the tire but it should not rub.

There is only one wheel you can align.The back one.If the front wheel is correctly assembled and sitting in it,s correct place,the back one is the place to look.On the end of the swingarm is the rear wheel,the axle for the rear wheel and the adjuster.The axle has marks on it to determine the adjustment of the rear axle/chain/belt.If both are the same and the drive belt/chain is correct,then the alignment is correct.Nothing more you can do.Both sides have marks or notches.Make sure they are the same and all is good.Dont overtighten the chain/belt.Hope this helps