04 honda 500 rubicon starts good and sounds smooth at idle but boggs down when you push throttle. new gas, cleaned carb. replaced parts carb. kit also chekd TCS any ideas need help thanks R.H.

Harry, dirty carb or injectors.
Check the attached links,Manuals and guides, Good luck with your Bike
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ATV TROUBLESHOOTING AND MAINTENANCE
ATV Service and Repair Manuals
http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp

the diaphragm in the top of the carburettor sounds like it is not lifting the slide up.i would say either the spring in there is jammed up or bent over or the rubber diaphragm itself is not sealed around the top of the carb properly ,you should assemble it by using red rubber grease to stick the diaphragm into the groove in the top of the carb.

Spray carb cleaner staight into carb opening at fast idle

Have you changed the filter in the tank(if applicable). Also could need a carb rebuild kit. Sound like the diaprgams in the carb could be keeping up at a idle but not putting out enough fuel when you open up the throttle.

Ok I have r Royobi Tiller (30CC Gas) And last year it ran fine after rebuilding the Carb. This year it was "hard starts" Idles fine, (Tiny whisps of blue smoke in exhaust with correct ratio) Even seems to run better with the choke "on" but still...at idle only. as soon as I touch the throttle...its bogs down in tune with how much gas I give it. Little throttle? Little bog down, Little more throttle? Almost stalls, a normal throttle rev? it stalls dead! Then starts right back up again in 1 pull and idles fine again!? WTF? So after cleaning a clean carb again, (twice) and seeing no change I thought I'd go look at the original diaphragm and compare it with the rebuild kit diaphragm (which is the one in the carb.) And guess what? The replacement has a larger rivet by a factor of "2". So basically it was flooding the carb, I bent the needle tang down, better but no cigar. But I could rev it half way now. A second disassemble to bend it yet a bit further and Vrooom vroom vrooom ****! So check your needle valve even though you think its 100%. (Especially if you rebuilt the carb with a kit!)

If your bike boggs down when you attempt to accelerate, it usually indicates that it is starving for fuel. It could be many things..an inline filter, trash in a jet, a stopped up strainer in the gas tank, excessive plaque in the carb. You can try some simple fixes such as replacing an inline filter, (if you have one). But usually the fix will involve removing the carb and soaking it in carb cleaner, replacing seals, gaskets, blowing out the jets, cleaning or replacing the lines. If your bike idles ok, but when you throttle up it boggs, you are getting enough fuel to make it idle, but not enough to accelerate, so when you call for more fuel, (accelerate), and it can't get it, the mixture leans out, (has too much air and not enough fuel). Hopw this is helpful. Good Luck!

poor tickover is in the pilot circit. does it smooth out at half throttle? what condition do the plugs show after a long tickover?
if you didn't really really clean the carbs (full disassembly, all ports checked for good continuity) then go back and take them apart.

have 04 polaris predator 500 doing the same thing, when giving full throttle it seems to be hitting a limiter a couple of 1000 rpm below full rpm, but will only start with air box disconnected from carby and spitting gas out, might be buggered T.P.S unit have bought new Keihin Flat CR carby with T.P.S on it so to replace one on thumb throttle as it has taken some knocks ( should be able to test T.P.S with volt meter when pushing the throttle), a cdi unit and coil will see how that goes.

did you clean all the jets good sounds like it may be in the jets and needle part of the carbs

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
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Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Before putting the slide back into the throat of the carb, move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

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